Bozz

MickyD (MCCR MEMBER) -----Original Message----- Sent: Tuesday, 26 November 2002 10:12 pm I have just spoken to a friend of mine in the Vic. Police force, who has told me that the Labour party intends to really crack down on speed if it wins this election (they have to pay for their promises to the minority groups somehow) Speed cameras will have a 1kph tolerence, ie, 61 in a 60 will see you booked, and there in a new range of penalties (also applies to radar/laser guns and other methods). 1 - 5 kph over, 1point $250 6 - 15 kph over, 3 points, $750 15 - 25 kph over, 9 points, $1500 for clean record, instant loss 6 month of licence and $3000 for repeat offence (even for 1 point) 25 kph plus, instant loss of license for 12 months and $4500 fine for first offence, doubled for previous offences. They are also looking at a way of limiting modifications made to cars, there was talk of a maximum performance increase of 10% over manufacturers claims,anything more renders the vehicle unroadworthy, and a limit to the types of cars that people can drive according to age, the example given was the the XR6 Turbo would be illegal to be driven by anyone under the age of 30 on Victorian roads. I will state that this is currently unsubstantiated, but this is the same officer that informed me over a month before hand about the change in tolerances on the speed cameras. ----------------- I dont know the accuracy or validity of this but I'm simply passing this message on.

Here's my easy fix that I've done to many cars- http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...readid=67134297

Sly33 what that yellow arrow points to is the air bleed tap for your cooling system, its not an air hose but a water hose.

Nice work meggs, I'm impressed I'm with grim ROFL at "watch out for Dr Drift modelling these great things. @ an industrial estate near you." Very nice quote :) If you get in touch with him, find out how the conversion went...

And for obvious reasons most people dont know how to do it properly, which makes cars with turbo timers extremely easy to steal. Whats the point of having an immobiliser and then having an immobiliser bypass? The immobiliser mustn't be too effective if a bypass using a single relay can be installed....

Indeed, I can vouch for that too, they are not just slightly but considerably quicker than a stock R32 GTS4, probably over a second quicker over the quarter.

None, I'd rather have more power, more reliability, less headaches and better fuel economy using the factory compressor bypass valve.

You have to make sure the fuse hasn't gone short circuit To check if a fuse is blown, shine a torch at the fuse box and look at the fuses on a 20 degree angle to the side where you can see the wire. Its pretty obvious which one(s) blown when you do this...

Pulled over after a hard takeoff from the lights. Cop was about 200m down the road with the laser. edit - kept him there for about 30 mins while he started writing out defects for different engine and various other things, then he pulled an engineers certificate out for everything and the cop got really pissed off and booked him for doing 2km/h over the limit.

I'd appreciate it, thanks.

A spider busy making a web.

Yeah thats about right. Wise idea about the steel flywheel, who's going to make it and how much is it likely to cost? Cheers

No, the RB30ET uses a different (larger) flywheel. The clutch also isn't compatible. If you're in a desperate pinch, the RB30E clutch bolts up to the 25 flywheel, the difference being (apart from lower clamping pressure) is the RB30E clutch uses 6 bolts to attach the pressure plate to the flywheel whereas the RB25DET clutch uses 9 bolts.

A mate got done for 62km/h in a 60 zone about a month back. Ironically he just had new tyres installed, I'm curious as to what it did to the rolling circumference and speedo. Same deal, $125. But its good to see he isn't doing 2km/h over the limit anymore, he could have killed hundreds of people!

Yes, the R31 Skyline/VL Commodore starter motor is a direct swap for the R32/33/34 starter motors.

Yep I got an answer and your right on the silicon based products causing this problem... From the paint supplies place you can get a small bottle which you mix with the paint to prevent this sort of thing happening.

I'm having problems of the paint not sticking to some surfaces, what could be the cause of this: I'm using prepsol (wax & grease remover) before painting and running a tack rag over the panels: and on other panels the paint comes out well, ignoring the run that I caused: Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Be wary the RB25DET is a lot heavier than the SR20DET and will make the S14 of yours understeer a bit more. Also I've only heard good things about the S15 SR20DET - it has an almost completely flat torque curve unlike the RB25DET which has stuff all power till it gets above about 2500RPM... But when it does, it boogies

This is the amplifier I use for the computer and it has thousands of features I never use, I'm replacing it with an ancient two channel amplifier which I have sitting around.... Specs- Power output: Front - 120W RMS / Channel (160W Peak) / 8 Ohms Havent got a listing for RMS power into 4 Ohms although peak is 225W Rear/centre 50W RMS / Channel THD - 0.3% No listing for IMD The amplifier uses discreete transistors in the power amplifier stage of all channels (ie not the cheap integrated IC type that many companies use) Dolby Pro Logic - Hundreds of different surround sound options available, each speaker can be increased/decreased in volume in 1dB increments Video switching, all video inputs go into the receiver and it does internal switching if you want to copy from DVD-VCR or VCR-VCR and watch something else etc. AM/FM tuner with 30 presets. Sony VisionTouch full IR control system - this unit learns all other units remote tranmissions and it can be programmed to control up to 8 devices via infra red - these devices can be from any manufacturer, they do not have to be Sony. IE if you switch the receiver to CD mode, it will send out an IR signal to turn the CD player on and start playing automatically, depending on how you program it. When you put it on TV mode it will switch the telly on, it has a function "All Off" that turns everything off one by one. I have even programmed it to control our air conditioner which has a remote control. It is menu driven and uses an on screen display on your telly to program it. It is necessary to have it hooked up to a TV when you first start using (and to program it) it but after a short period of time you learn what everything does. The remote control is joystick controlled and it can either control the on screen display on the TV or on the front of the unit. It even has a switched AC output that turns on and off as you choose to control legacy devices without remote controls. The unit has an infra red repeater than can be positioned away from it (or in another room) to control devices. This unit is one model down from Sony's best consumer amplifier that they released a few years ago and retail was about $1200. Model is STR-DE805G I dont think I'll even get half of what its worth but I'm open to offers if anyone's interested. I have the instruction manual for it too although I dont have the box and packaging. Cheers

Having gearbox problems in a manual cannot reduce your power. It is either all or nothing, unlike an auto which can induce slippage just like the clutch slippage you are currently experiencing. I just replaced my factory clutch on the RB25DET with a reco PBR one, it's got a stronger grab and is lighter on the foot. I'd guess its good for up to 250kw, maybe more. Best bonus was it cost under $200 As to the synchro's on your gearbox, yes its most likely them that are faulty unless you have problems getting the gearbox into reverse. If the box crunches whenever you try to put it into reverse then its most likely a misadjusted or worn or faulty clutch. Could still be the gearbox though. A manual gearbox is a very simple piece of machinary to understand that must be kept at very precise tolerances. As to the cost, I have NFI....

Bullsh...t.................

Bullsh...t................

Yeah I have one on my car, Peter Brock made it, it's called the Polariser and the fuel passes over rare earth rocks and minerals and other crud and polarises the fuel resulting in less fuel used. Bahahahaahahha!! If you engine is in perfect tune, reducing the amount of fuel entering without reducing the amount of air entering will destroy your engine by leaning it out. Think about it, if it reduced consumption and improved emissions as they claim, why would the manufacturer not use these devices? Only a braindead twit would buy one of these devices for any car produced after the 80's....