Bozz

(Use this as a guide for new threads. Delete and/or copy the fields as needed - dont forget to add your location in the description field above. Delete this message) (what if I dont want to? ) Item: double waterbed Location:melbourne Item Condition:average - has minor cuts in the fabric Reason for Selling:dont want a waterbed Price and Payment Conditions:$60 Extra Info:pickup only Contact Details:reply or PM me The waterbed comes with the bladder that has no leaks, I think its got a heater, the base has drawers in it and is covered in fabric which has a couple of small tears about 1-2cm long. I'll get some pics later

Just for reference is the correct way it should have been repaired. That way you have the entire length of the solder wick that doesn't have any plastic melted through it to act as the flexible part. When you fill the entire length with plastic, it may create a weak point somewhere that has less plastic than another part, resulting in a much smaller area that can flex leading to the copper breaking quicker. I've had a few sometimes come off and the reason almost always was I didn't leave enough plain copper to allow flex. About the soldering iron, I reckon wrapping it in al.foil will probably do the trick. Melting plastics with a copper soldering iron tip can kill it quickly by eating away at the tip coating and creating pits and holes in the tip. I have a professional weller soldering station and have numerous tips for different purposes and one old crap one just for plastic melting. If you're only using a $20 soldering iron then I wouldn't even worry about damaging the tip with the plastic, odds are it'll last for years if only used 2-3 times a year. If you have used a good tip to melt plastic, immediately wipe it off on a wet sponge and put fresh solder on the tip to help wash away any residual plastic. You may find the solder wont adhere to some parts of the tip, they're the damaged parts. Sometimes you can keep applying the solder and the flux in the solder may clean out the damaged parts and fix it. Never leave molten plastic on a soldering iron tip if you care about it!

Good to know it worked Cheers

Go down to jaycar and buy a small roll of solder wick Cut it to size so it overlaps both plastic bits and bend it to the right shape Using a shitty old soldering iron that you dont care about the tip, melt the solder wick lightly into the surface of the plastic button hinges. The wick will make it stronger than new and just as flexible. Its a common method of repairing poorly designed and built buttons just like that.

If its not listed in the top post then I dont have it. Cheers

Yeah its similar outer dimensions to an rb20det box. re the wiring, i can do it but will need to sort out dates accurately later in december. re the instr cluster, i replied to the pm cheers

Location: Melbourne (outer east) Item Condition: all in reasonably good nick Reason for Selling: need space and $$$ Price and Payment Conditions: pickup or i'll post if payment is made in advance Contact Details: reply or PM here Have the following parts: R34 NA 5 speed manual gearbox $500 R33 GTS25t bits: standard intercooler $50 black front guards $150 each steering rack and crossmember $70 front radius rods with red nolathane bushes $40 pair RS*R front springs and struts $120 pair power steering pump $15 brake booster and master cylinder $60 Heater core $80 Air conditioner core $25 Blower motor $20 Instrument cluster with 64,000km $100 Dashboard garnish that goes around radio, HVAC, air vents, from centre all the way over to the drivers side $100 Most other plastics around the dashboard except the dash itself - make an offer Dont have the radio bracket I'm going to brisbane around 20th december so I'll be able to drive stuff up if needed. Cheers

Does it do sik skidz bro? cuz if my homies wont restecpa me if i can do skidz up chappz uleh Seriously, the car left today, thanks for the offers.

ahh no worries. Its certainly no repeatedly clicking relays, everything else seems sound. ABS doesn't work even though the ABS light goes away after I fixed the O/C solenoid in the ABS servo unit and code 15 dissapeared. I wonder if the G sensor is required by ABS as well.... Only the 4WD light is still illuminated on the dash. I really really really really need the rest of the wiring diagrams for the car, it will make life so much easier. The ones in the links by Link (no pun intended, a fantastic resource ) only have the R33 engine diagram as I already have....

There are plenty of relays doing their job so yes you do hear relays clicking. Is the 4wd pump code 56 on the ECU? Do you have a list of all the codes if you suggest the pump? Thanks in advance.

I've scoured the net and can't find much useful stuff at all. ABS and 4WD lights illuminate after starting the car. There's no antiskid functionality and no 4WD, as you assume since these lights are telling us. I've got code 15 and 56 on the ABS/Attessa ECU in the boot. I've traced 15 to be a faulty servo on the ABS unit - putting a 5 ohm load across the suspect servo (that reads open circuit) gets rid of code 15. I now suspect the G-sensor under the centre console to be the culprit - I've disconnected it and the ECU remains at code 56. I took the G sensor apart and didn't go further than removing the lid and top PCB till I realised its really not designed for any repair. The R32 4WD system is electrically completely different to the R33, I've got the R32 complete service manual, the ECU is different, the G sensor is different, the ABS unit is different etc. Whether they're just a pin reshuffle or more, I dont know. I've also got the JPNZ R33 manual but thats only for all R33 engines, not the rest of the car. If anyone has any info to help, I'd really appreciate it before shelling out dollars for a G sensor. Cheers ______________

bump

Both are in good condiiton but would need a cut and polish to get rid of light surface markings. The drivers side one is missing the "GT" badge. $150 each in eastern suburbs of Melbourne. Pickup only.

Just needs a cut n polish now and it'll be as good as new

pictures fixed Diff isn't stuffed The halfshaft was pulled out of the diff, I've welded up the supsension mounts and the car can now be driven, here are the repaired pictures:

You're right, the pics aren't there. Gotta find out whats going on....

Updated price: $6,500 Updated with pictures Has 102,000km on the clock Is a stock standard RB25DET and gearbox and clutch and driveline Interior drivers garnish and air con vents are damaged, have a new one here Diff provides no drive, I assume the drivers side halfshaft has been pulled out of the diff. Needs a rear quarter cut, drivers side suspension subframe and drivers door. A-pillar is unharmed. B-pillar needs a little straightening where the drivers side intrusion bar bent it backwards about a centimetre. Bootlid is fine but now needs a little touchup paint on the edge because the rear quarter is touching the bootlid and the hinge of the bootlid is pushed about 1cm in, therefore the boot doesn't shut properly. From a couple of us checking the car out, we *dont think* the subframe is bent but still could be by an unnoticeably small amount. Needs a new wheel and rear caliper assembly, they were broken as part of the accident. The engine and gearbox stock standard and are perfect, the owner was a big wuss when it came to thrashing cars. Car has no rego, registration has been cancelled. There are no debts on it either. It is fully complied under low volume system, been in Australia for a few years with the one owner. Click each picture for a large version

Do you really have nothing better to do than post rubbish in other peoples threads? If you're not going to buy it then get lost, I nor anybody else is interested in hearing your drivel.

Hey mate, you are VERY funny. This car may also be used for wrecking. Have you priced up a halfcut lately? How much do you think an rb25det engine alone goes for? $2000 hahahaha.

Nar not drift damage. Sitting on Middleborough Rd waiting to turn right and an unlicenced driver with no fixed address driving someone elses unregistered car slammed into the skyline

Retard. Almost as dumb as the fool who offered $2500

Sale fell through so its up for sale again.

Updated. I think its repairable and I'll confirm in the next week or two if the asking price isn't obtained.

Current offer is a little over $6000 Anyone care to beat it?

Sorry, only going from memory. Will get more details in the next few days Approx 100,000km 5 speed manual (as per thread title) I think its a 1993 model No mods Fully owned and complied (green plates), no rego. Interior in very good condition Comes with some spare parts Bootlid is OK, rear bumper and RHS taillight needs replacing Front bumper needs a respray Otherwise the car is in very good condition