Bozz

Yeah still got it in the shed, looks OK and I dont think there are any leaks Can you collect?

Lets just say this isn't for the inexperienced, there are hundreds of parts inside. If you can rebuild automatic transmission valve bodies or an engine, you'll probably be able to do this job. To reassemble it will require complete cleanliness and complete accuracy - a single speck of dirt, a missing check ball, seal or incorrect re-assembly could result in no brakes or brakes locking on and not releasing.... Next week i'll acid dip the parts, get all the replacement seals and reassemble it.

Brakes used to be perfect. Bit well the moment you touch the pedal. Problems began after I fried the brakes on a track. The pedal does nothing until about half travel. I have braided brake lines, QFM A1RM pads, new discs, master cylinder to strut stopper. I removed and drained the fluid from all four calipers, refitted, bled - no difference. I rebuilt the master cylinder - no difference I rebuilt the front calipers - no difference I bled the system no less than 10 times including the ABS unit, in the order the manual recommended - no difference. I lifted the car in the air, an assitant "drove" it while leaning on the brake pedal to trigger the ABS while I bled it - no difference When I manually energize any of the three ABS servo solenoids and the fluid return motor, the pedal goes rock solid and can't be moved at all. This means the master cylinder is perfect and it's not firewall flex. It's ABS servo or the calipers have gone soft. Hence I'd like a damaged/leaky ABS unit to investigate the problem. Somebody must have one, i've seen plenty of threads where people have replaced their leaky ones. Cheers

I want to know whats inside them and see if it's part of the common cause of spongy brake pedals in R32's Cheers

shhhh more track time for the rest of us More photos people!

Nevermind, I've found and fixed the problem. I saw in another thread people were saying the clock is detecting overboost, haha what a load of shit. Anyway, there are four surface mount 30 ohm resistors in series to dissipate some heat under the Vacuum Fluorescent Lamp, they dry joint. Very risky to remove the VFL since it's glass and painfully easy to break. If you chip it, it's dead.... Took a couple of hours but I've fixed it, including the unnecessary removal of the SM IC to find out what it was (OKI M5547, datasheet here if anyone wants it: http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=M5547 ) Hope it gets a few of you out of trouble

Mines packed it in. I suspect the surface mounted IC or the VFD has died, if so, we're all up shit creek. Does anyone in Melbourne have a working clock that I can use for testing and try figure out what's wrong with them? I've replaced the usual suspects, the surface mounted 10uF capacitors and it didn't fix it. I want to compare a dead and working one side by side and establish if they can be repaired. Cheers

Was a great day Could only do 3 laps per session till my brakes got to temp then I had to let everyone past me for a lap. Put in QFM A1RM's and new standard discs so I reckon the standard discs and lack of cold air ducting caused all my issues. Engine started misfiring and pinging by midday, careless reassembly after tuning it the night before Any more pictures?

Sensational, thanks MrStabby Now I need to duplicate something like that with fiberglass Cheers

Where do they vent? I'm looking for a picture on-car so I know what to make. Cheers

Does anyone have a picture of what the factory brake ducts look like? Are there any companies that make aftermarket ducts? Has anyone made any ducts using fiberglass or PVC? If so, where do I begin? Cheers

Thats exactly what I was after (minus the blue - will sandblast it off) Thanks!

Does anyone make them? If so, how much? Cheers

Also, the AC runs from the climate control, through the engine computer. You say the chassis loom was replaced, was it all from the same year model GTR? This means you had the dash out and replaced the loom that runs from the battery, through the driver side firewall above the accelerator, into the SMJ, behind the dash (including the climate control), all the way to the passenger side where the ECU is. If that's the case, it should all just work. The plug for the AC compressor should be part of the engine loom.

Something sounds fishy. Like already said, to regas the system, it *must* be running to get it right otherwise its a complete guess job. No reputable workshop would say they regassed it without testing it, unless you stubbornly insisted they do. The only way to test it is to run it. You cannot get the correct amount of gas in without running the system and measuring low and high side pressures. If you underfill it, the evaporator will ice up on one side. If you overfill it, you could destroy the compressor. Likewise, you cannot verify if the AC thermostat, wiring (oh snap), TX valve, low/high pressure switch and a myriad of other things are working without testing the AC runs.

Its something I want to do - i've been wanting to learn modern microcontroller programming for a while and now I've got a need so I'll get my arse into gear and get it done in the next few months. It'd be a good idea to have an override just for engine temp, if the temp is too high, it just switches on a relay - not running through a microcontroller or anything, just a simple analog circuit. $30 worth of parts and wire is all you'd need. The only thing I could possibly screw up is the code, I only see a bit over a dozen parts would be needed: 5V voltage reg The atmel microcontroller (I googled it and it has a built in ADC so life would be stupidly easy) SIP capacitor array (uC input spike protection) half a dozen resistors for input decoupling and voltage matching (from memory the atmega48/88/168 series use 5v - need to research if there are any 12v uC's available that aren't too difficult to program) three relays for the fans (one SPST for on/off, two DPDT to provide low/high speed) a couple of transistors to drive the relays I'll post how i go. Going to research if i need to buy the Atmel programming kit (probably will because they're so common) or if something else like PIC or whatever will work better. I'm still pretty new to it all.

wht510 - have I seen you at Dr Drift? I think I've seen your setup and it looks great. I was thinking of going nuts with cooling control - twin thermofans can easily be wired up to work in two speeds (series and parallel) so if I could throw a few inputs through an ADC then into a microcontroller with enough inputs/outputs (eg atmega168) then I could easily and cheaply make it do some good things with cooling by monitoring existing sensors to make the fans work when needed and switch off when not needed. Thoughts on inputs using existing sensors: - Speed (switch fans off over say 50km/h) - Ambient temp (reduce thresholds to switch fans on as temp increases) - Coolant temp - Return coolant temp (if too high, run fans on high, if too low, throw a warning light - most likely out of coolant) - AC - Ignition (when ignition turned off, fans run for a few mins to reduce heat soak based on how long engine has been on and ambient temp) Outputs: - Fan on/off - Fan speed low/high Anyone ever done something like this?

It saps the engine of otherwise useful kilowatts I found a Subaru RX twin thermofan is the right dimensions. Need to find out if the same year WRX has a more powerful fan within the same dimensions although its significantly less powerful than the Ford Falcon fans. Will measure return water temps when I could be arsed to fit it. I'll also design a circuit to keep the fan running a few minutes after shutting down the motor to help cool it further. Will post more info when I get motivated enough to do it. Cheers

I dont know how Nissan auto's work, hopefully someone can confirm/update the following comments. This is a generic process for most autos as long as there is a dipstick to measure fluid level. Also be sure which fluid is going in, whether its the usual Dexron III or something else like TQ95 or whatever. Most likely Dexron III but dont chance it or it could cost you big dollars if you get it wrong. There should be a dipstick to check the auto's fluid level near the firewall. Pull out the dipstick (it will be long) and wipe it clean Reinsert all the way and remove it again. Check fluid level, it may have writing like Hot and Cold (or H C etc) which is the level when the transmission is hot or cold. There should be a level marker, usually crosshatched, the bottom of the crosshatch is the minimum level, the top of the crosshatch is the maximum level. With the engine off, top up the trans fluid to the minimum level, let it sit for a minute and re-check the levels. Once it settles at the bottom, start the motor, firmly apply the handbrake, put your foot on the brake and move the selector lever through all the gears. Let it sit in each gear for 5 seconds or so. Turn off the motor and check levels again. Get it to the minimum marker. Start the motor, foot on brake and cycle through all the gears again. Put it into park, leave the engine running and check the level. Now top it up to the maximum (or full or whatever) marker on the dipstick. It'll be a small amount of fluid, perhaps 1 litre from the minimum to maximum mark. Do not overfill it! Check again - the fluid level is usually checked while the engine is idling. Once it settles at the maximum point, it should be good to go.

Those two extra lines are the auto transmission fluid cooler. If you dont hook them up, the auto will pump out all the trans fluid within a minute of starting the car, you'd know about it. If the lines aren't in the new radiator and you've blocked them up, I'd say your auto isn't getting fluid and the cause of those symptoms. If the lines are leaking and coolant is getting into the auto, it looks like its manual conversion time - chances are the auto will be well and truly screwed by now. It could be something as simple as the trans has lost some fluid and is now low, while the radiator was being changed. Check trans fluid level.

another one Water pump shaft: steel Thermal conductivity of steel: approx 20-40 (low) (aluminium is over 200, copper over 300) Approx contact area of metal-metal coupling where viscous clutch couples to water pump shaft via 4x 10mm nuts: Very small. For reference, a well machined surface like a computers CPU heatsink makes around 2-10% contact. Thats why heatsink compounds are needed. So, I guess you're right. It does transfer some of the heat from the coolant via the water pump shaft. Perhaps under 1% of it.

oops

When I get time, I'm going to measure up the EF/EL thermofan. If they fit I'll post results. I found the last comment particularly amusing - that a stuck viscous fan could somehow result in an overheated or blown engine I also find amusing the suggestion a blocked radiator could cause the fan to come on early. Also the ignored comments where I wrote a new water pump and radiator are in my GTR, as well as the ignored comments about how radiators and heat transfer actually works in the real world. Its clearly a fan issue on my car, quite possibly the same as yours.

Anyone?

I've no interest in discussing this with you, mad082. I'm after specific information from people who have an R32 GTR. Cheers