MJTru

You are right wolverine. Anything I have done that was well thought through was well forth the effort. A bonus was saving money and time.

Check all your grounds to mate.

What you might want to do is a compression test on all cylinder. After that's Ok. Take out all the coil packs and unplug them along with the injector harness. Then remove the CAS sensor and test by plugging in one coil at a time from any cylinder. Let's say number one. Turn the CAS sensor clockwise with the ignition key on holding the coil with spark plug in it . You will see the spark plug fire. That ecu channel would be good and coil and plug would be good as well if spark is present. Repeat this on all coil and ecu channels. You can use this method for injectors, but a noid light would be safer and easier. I have had this happen to me and it was the plug on the ecu. Hope it helps mate.

I have actually seen this. I believe when people change there clutch or gear box the motor tilts and hits a bolt on the fire wall that holds a plastic clip that holds the heat core hoses or the heat insulation to the fire wall. I usually place a small peace of wood to prevent this from happening. Just my 2 cents.

I wouldn't try rebuild it. Balancing is the main issue. As for the speed. 150k to 200k more than that is over spinning your turbo. Danger will Robinson danger. Lol

How do they do it. I understand how the gtst VCT works with oil pressure and solenoid and all. But can someone explain how they do it on a rb26. ???

I know what you mean mate. I just was list my experience with it. But it was free. Totally. Just was a interesting boost issue I had. I personally don't like them. For the money I would pay for one I can get other turbos that just boost faster with less lag. That's me and I do understand that not all people are the same. It would be a boring world if it was like that.

Pm sent

Wasn't really blaming the turbo here. Other than the lag it has on a rb25. Keeping in mind that the flap still didn't control boost well. I do believe it came from a diesel truck that only boost form 22/30 psi. Hence it venting from one scroll. I got it free and wasn't complaining.

I had a hx 35 with internal gate and all it did was over boost. After I changed actuators like 3 times and all different types. I gave e up. I then just tied the gate open and still I was over boosting to about 25 psi. A matter of fact I new from experience I was maxing out the ecu on my rb20det. So i spent 800 dollars on a ROM tune ecu injectors and Z32 AFM. It started to eat the boost up. But after a while I was wondering why it's over boosting even with the gate open and tied open. So off came the turbo. I new it wasn't boost controller or waste gate. I noticed that the gate flap wasn't opening all the way. I then found online that people were have the same issue. (Internal gate here) it was limited by the cover 5 bolts cover or somthing like that. The flap couldn't open all the way. Next at closer inspection I noticed that it was a internal waste gate but twin scroll t3 turbo. So in short only one scroll would vent and the other would keep on boosting. This has nothing do with it being good or not. But it bugged me for so long that I spent 800 dollars on ecu and injectors along with AFM. Plus down time waiting. I had better results with cheap ass ebay turbos. I just should have done that and change to external waist gate. Besides all the the turbo hit hard when it came in but was way to laggy for me.

Thanks mate. I was planning on doing that as well. It's been a while but now my oil pan is on the way and the crank just arrived. I'm ready for the actual build. I'm planning on running 850cc injectors from sard and I'm using the D Jetro PFC. I can't remember but it's the one with map sensors. I'm planning on running NOS. Do you know what would be the best piston ring gap for that in standard bore and forged CP pistons.??? I'm hoping it will be listed in the spec sheet of the pistons. I'm also planning on running a 1500hp external fuel pump just cause I have it. You mention center diff. Sorry but I don't know notjing about that. Does that go in the gear box?????. And as for the cams it's hks 272 at stock rb26 lifts, but I really think they will hurt my power numbers vs. The stock ones. I feel old if my hp goals were over 1000hp is when it would help. I've heard to much about cams being the cause of people losing hp. Thanks for your help mate. Any one else.

Has anyone tried an extended rb26 oil pan from Rob at RaceFab. I just paid for one and was wondering what you guys think about it. Here in the USA we have team Raw Brokerage that builds oil pans for rb26. But like kyle from 6 Boost I thought I would trust in Rob to build a good unit for me. In doing so I can garranty sales from the USA and Caribbean countries either through me or direct. Any comparisons would be helpful until I receive my unit. After arrival in take close photos of both and we all can make comparisons.

Thanks so much. So great to know.

Can you give us a step by step on how to rebuild the lifters.

Hi I just build one of my rb25 motors about one month ago fully stock, but I have some bad lifters and I would like to know if the rb20 motors have the same lifters. I'm thinking of swapping them out for the rb20 set if it's the same. I have an old rb20 that never had lifter noise. Are they the same. ????

So i want 600 hp to the wheels. By today's standards that's not much. I do all my own work from home. After I was given a r32 gtr I found out the car was totally rotten, so I pull the motor and installed it in a gts4 I had. Made my own down pipes and did the work with a close friend of mine. After all was install in short the motor only lasted like 15 minutes before the bearing where all mest up. After I pulled the whole engine down. I noticed that this motor had HKS 272 with stock lift cams in it. It was fully stock but for those cams. Internally speaking here. So we pulled it out and made a list of parts that we will need. Over here in the states nissan cranks has been on back order for that last 6 months. It's now here so I went ahead and ordered an oversized sump from racefab. Rod will have it out to me soon. I'm looking forwards to that. In addition I got a 1.1mm Tomie oil restrictor and a head drain along with a tomie oil pump. Along with a long with rods and pistons ACL bearings main and head studs MLS head gasket and a new nismo n1 crankshaft along with a new cylinder head a set of valve seals cam seals with rear main seal supertec valve springs and titanium retainers. As for the head it was fun reading up on what I needed to do and doing it. I did all the head milling myself. I didn't open up any of the ports I just cleaned the up. The ridges that was left over from machining the valve seats. In short I made it all have one smooth flowing surface to reduce turbulence on the back of the valves. Next was the one mod the i was torn over should the humps in the exhaust port go or stay. I made my mind up measure the thickness if it was removed on the old head first. I found that it's the same size as the everywhere else and went ahead and took them out. This was mainly after I read an article about rb26 head mods and if using aftermarket turbo manifolds they recommend taking those out. I'm using all stock valves and slap seat them myself. I took measurements for shiming the lifters and new to make some adjustments. One of my big concerns is my HKS cams. They are 272 with stock lift. I feel these cams are to big and from what I've read on this forum no one really got good results using cams. Well at lest for what I want to do. So now that you know a little bit about my build this is what I intend on do with the car. Drag racing it that's it. Home and track. Never what to drive it on the road or nothing. I was told it a good set up because it's in a gts4's body and the diffs are going to favor the gtr gear box. Somthing about being shorter. ?? In the future I'm planning on replacing both front and rear diffs. Thanks mate

So here goes. I'll write my intentions now. Still figuring this new app out

Any suggestions for 600 hp goal? ?

Here is a shot of all my parts lined off. It's a new head.

A very long time ago I was reading up on cams for a rb series engine. I can remember that most people that used that wasn't happy at all right here on this site. Then ended up swapping therr cams out for the stock set. Some made way more power using the stock ones.

After I read all this I want to drop my hks 272 cams for my build.

Funny I'm trying to get the same goal as well. What turbo would you guys recommend for 500 kw. PT.

Ant to sure, last time I used one I just didn't like it. Boost came in at 4000 - 4500 and max boost after that. There are way better turbos out there. That's just my 2 cents.

Isn't vtc offered by mines. And some other Japanese companies. I remember seeing a video with the r34 mines gtr where it was turned on and compared to after and before results.

I build a 25 and only after I beat the car hard does my lifter start to make noise. It sounds like 2 of them are bad. What I want to know is how can I find out which ones are the bad ones. ??? It's a fresh engine with new oil pump and the pressure is good.