MJTru

Ok on the cams I see a stamped HKS symbol. Then on the intake cam it has N126 and 807 then on the exhaust cam has N127 and 907. All of these marks are on the part of the cam that you hold to tighten the cam sprockets. Thanks for any help that you cam provide.

Ok but how can I find out what lift the cams are. Is there any way I can mesure it.

I have no idea. Would it be stamped on the cams??;. Cause the car came frome japan with that cam in the motor.

Hi what do you guys think these vavle spring would wirk well with hks 272 cams on an rb26. Im running stock valves. Also can any one tell me the valve clearances for the rb26 head. Exhaust and intake. I would like to know min and max value s please. Kit Includes: Single Valve Spring Kit [email protected] (24) SPR-M1007S/RB + (24)RET-NRB60/TS

Ok I found them in the original post GTScotT said 9130 that was a typo its 9310 alloy pins. At least that what im finding as upgraded pins. But im still trying to have the supplier supply me the set. Seems its going to be around 2000 usd for the set of cp pistons 9310 and manley 625 rods. This is the last items I have to pay for. Thrn turbo and im thinking of a set of fresh valve springs. Then I just gots to wait on the parts to arrive. Thanks a lot mates.

Im finding the rods with+625 bolts but cant seem to find the cp pistons with the 9130 moly pins.

Ok these are the items I just ordered. Oem n1 nissan crank. Acl main and rod bearings Rear main seals 2x cam seals Supertech valve stem seals 1.3mm 86mm bore cometic head gasket. Main studs Head studs Head oil drain return 1.2mm block restictors. X3 Tomorrow i will be getting the tomie oil pump And the day after it will be the cp pistons and manly rods. Then finally I will buy the PT 6262 turbo. Thanks again mates.

Wow I have never heard or saw a moded sump to access the valve. Im loking at getting some valve springs for these hks 272 cams. I want to go with the supertwch stuff but im lost toas what to get. Any ideas on which ones totoo with. ?????

Wow. Thats hard to believe. 625 per cylinder. Sounds fake to me from a 2.6l motor. Lol. It cant be. But I could be wrong. Can someone bring light to this, cause the moly 9130 seems like old standards cause they are advertising higher numbers than 9130 moly. There like 92-- I can't remember the standards off hand. But I know the number are higher. Plus the rods comes with arp 2000 bolts they seem to be better than +625 bolts what ever thst may be. I truly have learnt alot from this site and would give all my credits to this site only. But to find out these number's mean nothing is hurtful. Please clarify for me.

Do you know the torque on the tomie oil pump bolts. Screws. GTScotT what do you mean when you say +625 bolts for the rods. Regaurding the piston pins o figure its just stronger. Right??? But that +625 got me stumped.

Do you knowbthe torque on the tomie oil pump bolts. Screws.

Yes im planning on getting the crank with the ling oil pump drive. But after reading alot I really would like to go with the tomie oil pump cause of the external oil pressure regulator.

Seeing how im getting the Tomie oil pump do I still need to take the screws out and put loctitie on them. ????

No my crank isnt salvageable. But thanks for all your inputs. This has always been my concern when building rb motors. I have done this on two rb25 and I have yet to see one fail.(Collar) But I really dont push the motors hard like drifters hitting the redline or fuel cut all the time. Only when I drag race and on some occasion hit the red like. Well I even was thinking about going external oil pump set up but damn it exspensive. In the very worst case ill just buy a gtr crank like the one you showed me GTScotT, and run the tomie oil pump on that. Ill keep everyone posted as parts start to arrive. Thanks mates

Take a look at this GTScotT http://mobile.dudamobile.com/site/TheSkyLife?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.skylife4ever.com%2F2011%2F01%2Freal-problem-with-rb26-oil-pump.html%3Fm%3D1 Tell me what you think. According to this even the r33 crank collar is flawed. Well do some reading and tell me your thoughts please.

I thought the same thing about the turbo. Those FP turbo are very costly. I'll go with the PT 6262 with a v band T 4 hot side. I guess ill have to remake the down pipe or just mod it. Thanks for letting me know about your thoughts on the rods and bolts. I never new that I could get them with those and will look into it. I cant wait to start the build. In yhe past I remember someone link to a place that can supply me with a rb26 crank and installed the collar for me. I looked all over and cant seem to find it. Do you think you know of anyone that can help me out in this area. What I was going to pay for the PT7576 journal I can now get the PT 6262 ball bearing. Thanks again. Its been an eye opener. Thanks mate.

Do it the right way. Get the gasket mate.

It looks to be a n1 unit. If I can remember the n1 has 11 teeth or gears and the oem stock ones are 12. The one on there was 11 teeth one. Nismo n1.

Well in short after I figured out all my wiring issues with getting my rb26 into my gts4. It ran great for about a half an hour. Then as everyone knows these motors are prone to have oil issues. My oil pump died and took the main bearings and crank with it. The head seems to look in great shape cams and all. The motor cam from japan with hks 272 cams, and sprockets, with MLS head gasket, and fully stock bottom end. Well im starting a new engine build. I'm planning on buying a used crank thats still in good shape then have a crank collar installed. Im planing on using ALC race bearing. Main and head studs all by ARP. Im going to use wisco forge pistons and eagle H beam rods also (Stock bore) a 86mm bore at 1.3 mm thick MLS head gasket. The oil pump im planing on getting is a tomie one with the bigger gears and external presaure regulator. I'm also going to install 1.1m block oil restrictors. That would take care of the block. For the head im planing on smoothing out those exhaust bumps, and cleaning up each ports by the valves that are left by the machining process by nissan right under the valve seats. I will check the valve guides for clearance and reuse if they are still good. Next im planing on using supertech springs and retainers. Retaining the stock rb26 valves. Then I'm going to use those hks 272 cams and cam sprokes. Finally im going to install a head oil return in the back of the head and plumb it to the rear turbo oil drain that is currently blocked off. I have a mild steel manifold running precsion 7675 turbo. Top mount. I got gtr fuel tank and pump with 1200cc injectors. Ecu is a Power FC D-jetro. And all the other little stuff. Please let me know if there is anything else that I might need to get this off the ground. Im aiming for like 600 hp the very most. Thanks mates.

Well I figured it out. I feel very bad saying this. But the car just needed gas. Damn. The smallest thing beat me up for 6 hours. Well I have even worst news. Thr motors oil pump failed and its now dead. Sad. Im planning on rebuilding it. From what I know the head is still in great shape. But it only had hks 272 cams on stock springs, with hks cam sprockets, MLS head gasket. And fully stock bottom end. I will make a new topic for engine build. Thanks to all. I'm happy that I got the D-jetro power FC figured out. After the tune it lasted for like half an hour and man at 14psi it hauled ass.

Sorry for the double post guys. This my damn phone

GTSBoy. The gtst body harness was never changed over so its still the stock one. The gtr has a different way of staging the fuel, well thats how im thinking. Now the gtst I believe dont even stage the fuel. I just need to find that wire on the gtr ecu pinout and just remove it to trouble shoot the issue. To be exact the fp2 out put.

GTSBoy. The gtst body harness was never changed over so its still the stock one. The gtr has a different way of staging the fuel, well thats how im thinking. Now the gtst I believe dont even stage the fuel. I just need to find that wire on the gtr ecu pinout and just remove it to trouble shoot the issue. To be exact the fp2 out put.

Does anyone know which pin is the output for F/P2 ???

Ok on the power fc in sensor/sw check I notice that when ever the fp2 comes on the car cuts the fuel or ignition, it just dies. Eveytime this is whats happening. F/P is on when the car is running. As I start to move the F/P 1 comes on. Then as the rpms start to rise the F/P 2 comes on then it fuel cuts. Something is wrong here. I realy never did get my head around the fuel pump circuit. But im thinking that when ever the ecu sends this output its killing the pump or just putting itself in fuel cut mode. I might be wrong as well.