MJTru

Ok I just took the car for its first drive. Drives good till about 4500 rpms then it fuel cuts it just dies. Looking at the wide band as I drive its not leaning out until it dies. The the wide band goes of the charts lean. Im sure iys fuel cutting. I used the whole gtr wiring harness from the Gtr. Im just stumped to what can cause it to just fuel cut like this. The power fc is a DJetro unit for a rb26. The rb20 that came in the car never had a power fc rb20_180sx.

This is the same gtr fuel pump and tank that came out the gtr from japan that I put into my gts4. Prior to this rb26 is was running a rom tune on the rb20 with 550cc injectors and a holset hx35 turbo. All seemed to be fine with that. I understand and will log fuel pressure under light loads in the event the pump is going. The car only sat for like 2 months. Thanks for all your help GTSBoy I really do need to get this sorted out though.

This is the same gtr fuel pump and tank that came out the gtr from japan that I put into my gts4. Prior to this rb26 is was running a rom tune on the rb20 with 550cc injectors and a holset hx35 turbo. All seemed to be fine with that. I understand and will log fuel pressure under light loads in the event the pump is going. The car only sat for like 2 months. Thanks for all your help GTSBoy I really do need to get this sorted out though.

So these bigger cams is what is causing my load cell to be in the L5 point at idle. ??? Hmmm. I was thinking to add more fuel as well. So I used th inj correction in the power fc to add fuel across the whole grid and it was the same. Didnt rev past 5500 rpm's. I do have a fuel pressure regulator with a gauge and at idle its been at around 40 psi. So I know its at the right pressure or around it at least. What I was meaning is as I rev the car and look at the wide band gauge I noticed that it leans out. One question I have is if these cams are causing a lean condition. I still should be able to get them to rev out and not lean out with stock injectors right. ?? I have a set of 1200cc injectors. I pretty sure these had reved out when they were in. Hmmm. I dont seem to remember. Thanks for all your help mate.

Hi, i just finish my Rb26 swap into my gts-4. the car runs and idle great, but it wont rev past 5500 rpm's. The car is running stock injectors for now with the D-jetro power FC. All my PIM values are OK, and the fuel pressure seems to be fine at 37psi. I would rev the car and it revs good to like 5500 rpms then looking at the Wide band gauge i notice that the car leans out at that rpm. The motor came out of a car from japan that i got, but the gtr body was to rotten, so i just took it out and installed it into my gts 4. I noticed that the car has got HKS 272 cams, and adjustable cam sprockets, but i have them set at zero both on intake and exhaust. i don't feel as if this would stop it from reving out. Looking at the power FC hand commander i see that one O2 sensor isn't reading, but will this cause it not to rev out pass 5500 rpm's???? What else can cause the car to not rev past that rev limit (5500 rpm and lean out) everything seems to look normal. the only think i can think of is the fuel pump control circuit is wrong seems to go lean and hit rev limit when those lights come on. F/P1 and F/P2.

Hi paulr33. Thanks mate. Can you hook me up with a link to your site for detail on a rb26 D jetro installation. I looked at your FQA, but I was not to deatailed.

Just one question. My power fc came with denso map sensors The numbers on it is DPD-310-2000A Thats to the top. Then at the bottom I have 949940-6270. These are not apxi map sensors but can they work the same???. Thanks

Looked mate. It wasnt to much in depth. It did mention it though.

Hi on the side of my power fc the serial number is PFC GTR33D 020-0796 is this a real one Thanks mate.

Hi there again. Well i ended up damaging the rb20. Lol. But i just finished installing the rb26 in my gst4. I remembered to use the gts4 front diff insted of the gtr's. I changed all the harness under the hood all the way back to the fuse box by the drivers feet. Two plugs were different so i swaped out the pins and only noticed that one wire out of the two plugs were different but i placed it in the same location. The fuse box and the whole harness in the engine bay was changed over. Im now waiting on my top mount manifold to reach so i can finish up the intercooler piping and down pipe. Im also looking for a clear insructions on how to install my power FC D jetro map sensors. I think looking from the japanese instructions that i have to tap into number 3 and 4 cylinder throttle body with a little air fitting on both sides. Them mount the map sensors with the smallest hose possible. am i on the right path here. Then i have to hook up the signal from the maps to number 1 and 2 amf inputs on the ecu main plug. Is this right. Thanks mate.

Hi i have my power fc manual but its in japanese. Does anyone got a link that can help with the map sensor installation. Thanks mate.

Hi mate. I have build rb25 in the past and found that the motors have a few flaws. stock piston ring landings are weak. oil pump and crank needs a collar, head needs resistors and extra oil drain to return oil back to the pan faster. Hydraulic lifters. well what i would like to know is from a stock stand point I've been beating my RB20 and it taking it totally stock, my stock rb25 would have died already. now are these motor stronger, I want to know if the head and oil pump has all the same flaws as the rb25. I'm planning on rebuilding it soon. does the rb20 have hydraulic lifters and oil pump flaws like the rb25. Dam its a fast little car. lol My currant mods are Holset hx35 turbo, FMIC, stock BOV, gtr fuel pump, exhaust, 550cc injectors, z32 AFM.

yes mate i got him. that was my bad i was checking for a specific shop close to me. he turned me on to AutoVaughn Performance. thanks again Mate. any links to start learning the Nistune software. kind of like power fc faq.

do you have Mate's contact I'm having problems finding his contact. i looked for like an hour.

hi mate. I just upgraded my gts4 turbo to a hx35w Holset turbo. boost comes in like at 45-4800 rpm's but i don't care cause I'm using the car to drag race. The car is totally stock with the following upgrades. FMIC, FPR, HX35W Holset turbo Exhaust, BOV. Im looking to upgrade the injectors and AFM, but only after talking to a tuner. this way i can make the most of it. Any help would be appreciated. I'm looking to Nistune or AR power FC. Can anyone provide some contacts for a good Nistune person that can help me out.

GTSBoy thanks mate. i will look at the computer to get the codes. at least the parts that i may need would be right on that r32 gtr. i really did this swap to use the 4wd system so any help would be appreciated. i must say with the gtr's RS-R coil overs and fresh rotors along with the new tires made a world of difference with the car. i Love the way it drives. dropping the diff and changing the pump is no problem for me as well mate. that sounds like a 4 hour job. to me i have the time as i'm not working right now lol. thanks again mate you the only one helping me out really.

ok i just replaced all the tires using the gtr oem rims. the sizes are 225/50/R16 all round. but i drove it today and the light came on after about an hour of driving. i would cut the key off and restart the car and the light would go off, then after like 1 minute it comes back on. i would really like to know what approach to take to address this problem. Now it may be the pump cause the car was converted to rear wheel drive and the pump ran for a while dry with no oil before the fuse was pulled. now i can just replace it with the gtr's pump. any ideas would help mate.

its done. after driving the car. i noticed that the 4wd light comes on. any ideas. i bleed-ed the atessa system right and getting no air out now. i noticed that one of the front tires are different. its the same tire size but different height. one is 91h and the other is 89v. One time i drove the car for a while and i noticed it stayed off and only came back in after i stopped and cut the key off to have a conversion with a friend. well i really think it's the tires. let me explain the rear ones are the same, but the two front ones are different names but the same size 205/50/16. would this cause the light to come on???? now when i get up i will change all the tires to the same size and brand (new ones), I'm just hoping that it would be the fix before i do the buy. i plan on using the r32 gtr rims they are wider, and with tires they feel way lighter, oh that's the factory rims I'm talking about. plus plus it looks so much better. I also went with the gtr fuel tank cause it plastic i noticed. witch i found interesting. i plan on installing the coil overs i got from the gtr alone some other items. like greedy boost gauge, HKS D Dragger muffler, seeing how the car is a 4 door i will need to lengthen the piping. oh and a FMIC, and Blitz BOV vented back in. i would really like that 4wd light to go off and work right. is there a way to pull codes to see what the 4wd module is saying?? what if one day a speed sensor goes bad??? i would need to know how to retrieve codes from the module.

interesting stuff guys. well i can conform that the the cluster is different, and that the auto indicator is in a different location. that was my bad guy's i just forgot where it was. well today i finished it up by installing the peddles and all. i noticed that the gtr has a clutch master booster and the fire wall was different with an indentation to accommodate it, but the gts4 didn't, so i ended up using a r33 gtst clutch master cylinder to get it all working. i understand now about the shorter ratios, and thanks niZmo_Man. the gtr cluster is different. well i mean i can see it working but i would need to move around some wires cause when i put on the signal lights to the left direction the hicas light flashes, and the rpm's don't work on the gtr cluster. the physical dimensions fit. now all thats left is the transmission transfer case oil filling, and the attessa filling and bleeding procedure. oh and about the trunk lid. i was say that just the shape looks to be different on my 4 door gts4. but i'm thinking if i use the gtr rear bumper and trunk lid the lights would fit cause the only difference seems to be the inner parts of the tail lights are round, and the gtr's trunk lid and bumper looks like to would accommodate this difference. i thinking that the front bumper from the gtr could work to. i will look into the nisstune as I've always wondered about it. can anyone link me to a very good dealer in the us.?????? thanks again mate.

thanks so much mate i will look for the links you mentioned. its funny cause i couldn't even sleep well knowing that it can work. lol why do people look to run gts4 diffs that's funny. Do you mean that it makes for better et's in the quarter mile. (short gears)????? well my friend you seem to be right cause all the dash look the same.lol my gts4 has a auto light built in the cluster do you think the gtr cluster will work as well.???? looking even closer it looks like if i change the truck lid and bumper the gtr rear lights would fit as well. i find this so funny. its to bad i cant find a power fc for this rb2odet motor. i have made ok power years ago using a afc with hot wiring a z32 AFM with steel wheel tubro on a rb25det motor excluding other small mods. i cant wait to launch this car and feel the difference from auto to stick. lol. I'm sure it will be nothing like my r33 GTR that smokes all 4's lol. thank you for your time and consideration.

Hi Mate i have 2 cars now for a while. a auto r32 gts4 and a old rusted out but modified r32 GTR. the gtr is very rusted so i scraped it for parts. i took the motor out for a s14 silvia swap. But looking closely i noticed a lot of similarities with my gts4 auto and gtr drive train set up. today as we speak i have the GTR gear box installed in my gts4 it fits like it was meant to be there.lol all the drive shafts lined up like the original ones do. i just had to cut the floor open for the gear sick to fit. in the morning i will move the peddles brake and clutch from the gtr to install them in the gts4. the slave and clutch master of course and see how it goes. Seeing that the front and rear diffs are stock gts4 will i need to use the gtr's??? or will this be ok. also can someone help me with the attessa system how do i bleed it up??? the reservoir is empty. thank mate

sorry that it took me a while to get back to this topic being the new year and all i was a bit busy. Like GTSboy mentioned witch i agree with it has a lot of variables like leaded fuel and so on. The one that I'm a hundred percent on is him hinting about talking to a OEM engine designer. I have done some research on this in the past, and i think that what your saying indirectly is the way a combustion chamber is shaped that has a lot to do with anti- detonation characteristics and so on. This is why you mentioned 4 valve heads??? Well I've found over the past years that OEM tends to keep the squish are as small as possible, and being a mechanic myself I've notice this as the (4 valve) motors over the years (late to date) did get smaller. The big advantage these days i believe has to do with special coatings that are proven to yield a great result in Anti- detonation characteristics. Most machine can do an OK jobs on reshaping the chambers to yield a better result, but i think that this will only be a practical results that is gained over years of experience, and not by any old bloke in a shop with machines. (pick them wisely) On the other hand coatings are the new leading edge in reducing the detonation characteristics of a combustion chamber. For you comment Mr. Lithium i'm dieing to find out more about TL and DR. in the past i can remember coming across these acronyms in my distant past. If i was to guess here it would be something like max torque required???? and DR i have no idea. lol. wow this can only be a clue that you are hinting that i can look up. I have tried on my smart phone at work, but with a minimum result. If you can widen the clue a little bit it would be most appreciative. Thanks in advance. I'm concerned that you mentioned that when you cared, I think deep down that you still do care. As for the rest i do agree with the assumption that max cylinder pressure is around 10 and 20 ATDC dependent on multiple of verialbes

wow that last answer just made more light bulbs go on in my head. The reaction rate will go up. does this mean that from molecule to molecule it would burn faster, but the over all amount will still take the same time?? well the same time the combustion stroke takes? So GTSBoy in short it takes the same time??? and that's the best i will get. lol. I'm asking because in my head i see people all over the net running made boost which i think is not practical and a trick. like around 50 plus PSI, please don't get me wrong here, but wouldn't it have to do with how much you can squeeze the fuel (octane) and to reach maximum cylinder pressure the whole fuel mixture needs to be burnt in full? If this maximum cylinder pressure happens BTDC then the piston would want to go in the direction opposite the rotation of the motor, and if it happens at TDC well this would be bad to because it would place all the force on the rod and main bearings, but the piston should be on its way down (ATDC) to make good power. Or if you can does the piston have to be moving down whiles all the fuel is being burn away? Please bear with me here for a minute. I guess if i know when maximum cylinder pressure is reached that would answer my question. Is it when the whole fuel is burn away or is it whiles the fuel mixture is being burned (somewhere from the beginning to the end)????? I'm thinking that on those high PSI motors the fuel never really reaches maximum cylinder pressure and is waited in the exhaust stroke. With a little better timing it would be used more efficiently. Am i on the right track here mates?? please any help would be a good holiday gift lol thanks

hi i have just a simple question here. add more fuel and air into the combustion chambers, does it take longer to burn, or does the more fuel and air actually burn faster? keeping in mind that all factors like fuel burn rate stays the same. thanks. have a happy holiday

keep it up I'm much like you, I'm hoping guru's like status would give use his opinion, and insight in this matter. Most can just say short answers, but i'm hoping that he can go into how the back ground features work on the PFC.