MJTru

i was impressed when i finally got my r33 GTR, and just stuck a GTX3582r with 6boost manifold twin scroll. power fc with two z32 afm 2 hks bov vent back in, and intank Tomia pump. at the same 1 bar and a good tune stock injector at close to 8000 rpm the check light would flash (injector max out) 124 mph in the quarter dont remember the ET. but i will never buy another gtst. lol

sound just like me years ago, i feel that you just got all the help you just needed from above, good advice mate follow it, and you sound like you did your home work, if i was to add anything get a good damper pulley. have fun boosting lol best setup crank collar tomia pump 1.5mm rest, and extra head oil return, with good damper. and you should be good.

I understand that but, this is the answer you will get from most because they either have a ported out head, or have to swallow the pill of wanting to do it. lol.. All variables were kept within a 2 % range nothing was ever over that. I never mentioned boost we were looking for one isolated even not different turbo’s. But I know what you saying. Man it was porting vs velocity just that within reason. you know the answer to you last question. it took me a while to come to terms with what we were finding out. Its like when scientist found out that alumimum pots oxidies with viniger and salts, and cause cancer in the 90's they can't stop the world from stopping producing it right way, but hide it and, force companies to fix the composits, still to this day were are dieing of cancer more and more before it slows down sorry for that exsample. but people just dont want to face the truth.

as for the 26 why do the japanese only mainly use the 26 and no 25 parts, the block is thicker in some areas, and i heard that the metal composit is different. i can remember reading this in an artical many years ago. i dont know how tru this is, i believe a 26 head flow why more air as well as the aluminum composit. can anyone verify this?????

About the porting of the head is a big waist of money. We must understand a few things first. The first thing is cash disposal, and how much you have to spend.. To kill this it took our shop 5 motors and hours of testing. I will start of by mentioning that velocity is the wholly grail to making power. We took a standard RB26 and ported and polished it and tested it at 8000 rpms. I can't seem to locate the result sheets at the moment, but I will go on. After having the same motor stripped of its head we then installed a standard 26 head, and many would argue that the porting job was done wrong. The point is velocity please remember we are trying to kill this myth. At the same rpm we noticed that the standard head made an easy 48 more hp. We then were a little confused. What I said, “Half the cars out there with ported heads will lose power”. This can’t be the motor made more power on a standard GTR head??????? We then went on to do more test to find out what is going on, a whole new rb26 motor arrived. Velocity: velocity. We came to the conclusion that the air had slowed down, and in order to make more power from a ported head we would have to raise the RPM of the motor, but is if really that or just the extra rpm??? So the test continued. Well in short, we contacted a fellow race shops and most were lost to. The bottom line is if you lower velocity you must raise rpm to get the same atomization of the fuel as standard head, and it is way more effective to go for more velocity than to open up the port to a bigger diameter within reason. By opening it up you slow the air down, and one for one our test shows that it is better to just clean up the factory casting and valve seat areas, than to open it up, unless you are going to raise the RPM of the motor, and still after testing the same motor at higher rpms with standard head still made more power. For this Myth to work you need to build a vehicle specific application like only drag or drift. Then you would need all the supporting mods. I always wondered why so much hype went into port and polishing if this is the case, not to mention we are forcing air in. In my head it would yield a better result if we were to look at making it more efficient through many avenues available to make a more efficient motor, like the turbo, cooling of charged air fuel burn rate, that’s a good one, and so on. So why haven’t many shops know this, just that too much research and development. That is 1 reason, and they just kill their income, or they just don’t have a clue. Hope I help mate

how about the japan stuff guys i have some Sard 800cc in a rb25 4 the last 6 years and no problems yet. knock on wood. lol this is messing up my mind, because i want to get new ones for about 750 awhp in my r33 gtr. now i'm lost. i'll keep on reading.

i would like to talk to some one before i send it out. anyone has a link for haltech over there, or even better a name would help. thanks mate i figure thats what i have to do. i just need the proper link to tech department. It would be so great if i can get someones email to talk to before shipping it out. i guess the Power fc isn't werth it?????? thanks status you've always been good help or solid advise

Hi mate i own a power fc and a haltch ps2000 and both of the is damaged. I would like to know if anyone were i can send them to get repaird. I no it sound bad but, a divice in my car shorted and before i can isolate it, i just simple mest both up. please take a look at the attach photo nothing big is burnt. first 3 pics are power fc. then haltch ps2000 thank mate

To kill all of this someone should just make a device that can convert consult to OBD2 and all is over, Innovative motor sports or any for that matter that uses the obd2 method to monitor through our smart phones. OBD2 is an international standard and it should be easy.

Just what I have in mind mate the stock platic pipe is still there, I'm looking into buy the flange adaptor from eby for the HKS SSQ bov, I'll make a pipe to link to to of them and return it to the bock off spot on the greedy y pipe, s it looks like someone blocked it in. I spoke to friend that contacted Jim wolf the Nissan guy, and was managed to tune a r32 ecu nd get arond this, I have know idea what they did but the car is running atom bov's and it a beast running 1.9 bars no rich problems surging or anything like that. Still willing to send money for real personal help even if I learn about something else. Thanks mate besides all these critics say you make sense, and it speaks about there tuning logic in there heads. Light bulbs should be going on but the fuse is blown. Lol thanks again mate, I can't believe I never even thought of this. It was similar to my GTST it did it to but not as bad and I isolated the cell and pulled the fuel out and the self learning idle did the rest but seeing that the GTR is 2 times the car, two time the bov's gates, 2 tme the simtoms. I'm working on it and will update the post and have a video to show the the guys with the blown fuse.

It looks like the mafia is on to something here atmo bov will stall and cause gear changes to be crap, alone with rich idle come guys, ideas on the solution to this problem. Can I get a set of bov's that vent it back to the turbo. Where would I vent it back to. My greedy y pipe for my afm had a spot at the bottom for something like this but, when I got it, it was weld in closed.

Ok The Mafia I understand you, it makes sense mate. You sound a little like me in the past tune and learning mostly on your own. I do the same but have a harder problem, as I used to live in a land of dyno's, but know more. Besides all that I learnt from being ignorant, after about 95 g' and a slow Honda turbo crx, oh and lots of sleep less night, I can remember looking at the bootms of empty beer bottles. Well it funny that this is the only thread that fits my situation, after the f--cking money was spent. Well I guess I'm still learning and mut bow to those with more curent and modern knolage. Well mate here goes, it makes sense but what to do. Everything you say is happening to me. Ok so I don't have a dyno, I do it on open roads with a friend logging, well tuning for mc torque is out cause I can't see that, but if I learnt right, on forced induction cars I I'll get a high knock before torue drop off, in saying this my hands are still tying when it comes to finding that best torque, but I get AFR's reall good with 12.1 12.2 on WOT max load. That's easy its the bits in between that toes so long. Well after like 8 g's I witch I did read this first. I got my GTR after I max out GTST motors and couldn't get traction for nothing. And after reading on here about how much better a GTR is over a GTST. I finally got one. 1995 with low low milage and paper work from Japan NOSE. Inc. The car came with stock motor and bov's. Stock FPR. Trust FMIC blitz boost contoller Oil relocation kit with cooler by BLITZ EXHAUST Well with just the same added bolt ones. I know like most that the GTR turbos are one of it's first weakness, sounds like when I started the GTST project. Well oreded twin scroll top mount t3 divided coulector manifold from 6boost got a new gtx3582r with twin Tial MVS gates and two HKS Amto Bov's. The problem right there. Well my car now runs just as you describe. Sad. Starts well and idle well, if I hit the gas it wants to stall, and somtimes it does, the AFR's goes of he charts rich. When cursing at around 70 mph the is a little surge in the. Ars momentum, this surging is related to. I have noticed, to 02 sensor volt reading being inconsistent, AFR's surge with the the cars movement. Remember at cursing it's a small surge at zero boost and vacuum. Well this is my offer to you Mr. THE MAFIA can I hire you to help me with my problems, I can send fund vis paypal I understand that knolage is power not gas and air. It's just hot at the end of the day. I'm ingested in you solution and you shouldn't be worried about people learning, well at lest for me I'm around the other side of the earth. Lol What methods taken to fix this problem, first is to replace the bov's with ones that vent back into to turbos inlet. Ecu change after getting the power fc? Well I got happy to have found something I will read on Thanks mate

No not as jet but I need the dam thing to stay running, unfortunately, we have no tuners out here, well the dyno type. I try with what I have. There must be some setting for throttle and injector setting so the injectors can stop firing once throttle is closed, I can remember seeing these setting in my haltech for my GTST. What weard mate is that I did a same mod to a GTST and the thing ran grate, drove off good just logged it and did what I could for the AFR's was for the ignition my hands are tied cause I will never be able to detect max torque but high know will be a sign, in forced induction applications. But I really do think I can work it out I just need a point in the right direction. I have a data logger I can log what ever you or anyone would need. I thinking that I'm also royally screwed cause if it's bigger than me i really think I'm coming to the end of all this car mod crap, and this gtr I'm sure is my last project I would hate to say in my situation, with all said no tuner I tend to do most of my own work, but man, I finding it easier to just work f--- cling hard and save my money. Or it may be easier just to learn how to be come a business owner and paypeople for the headache. Well that it I'll hook up the data logger and learn more maybe the whole thing with me in it will burn to the ground

Well when I got the car I noticed that the wide band 02 sensor is all over the place. Say I take off reach 3rd gear cuisin at like 60 70 miles at dead zero boost or vacume. I can feel the car surging go stop go stop like the power is coming and going. Now on WOT it works fine. First off I should mention that I have a power FC in the car and I have looked over the whole power fc FAQ. But the problems are a bit deeper than that. I'm using a greedy y pipe with two new z32 maf meters, cause I was thinking that it could have been the afm after many hours of reading. Now I also changed the fuel pump and went with an in tank Tomie pump, with fuel rail and regulator. Alone with spitfire coils and HKS plugs heat range 7 I'm planning on running only 1.2 bars not alot at all for those AFM's. Ok lets say the car is started witch it does fine after revving it. The idle would drop to the point where it wants to cut off, and it would just go rich before it starts to lean it self out. I mean rich below the 10 mark and if I walk to the back of the car, all I can see is just smoke rich smoke. Some times it cuts off or it will level it self out until I rev it again, don't get m wrong it free revs fine just hard to drive like this and the rich smoke will kill me. I should mention that I set the fuel pressure to 2.5 bars with the hose on and 3 bars with it off. Another major thing I'm thinking of here is. Well there are no filters on the afm's I got them but they just havant arrive as yet. Do you think that no filters in front of the afm,s would cause this problem. I,m also thinking of doing a full reitnialize of the power fc. Is there any thing to help with tuning this in the power fc that I may be over looking. I plan on making a video later on on how the car is running and post it for all to try and help. I'm stumped and just spent g,s on this set up just to fine it won't run even after a simple turbo mod. I'm thinking it's something to do with the y pipe and afm's I even used back the stock ones and the same thing. I notice that one afm v is less than the other by just a little.

I have ran 25 psi max out at single z32 MAF meter. On a rb25 with stock internal good tune. I did this on 22 psi for months and after a week on 25psi the 25 died but. Had all the right bolt ons the ring landings failed on 2 cylinders after that I build the motor and I'm still having fun, I just got a haltech ps2000 for the GTST and now I wil really puch it lol. Oh nag hat was with a 6 boost manifold Tial 44 mm waste gate and a Garrett GT35R I cant remember the housing size. I think it was smaller a 62 maybe. The 26 is much stronger from being the under dog for may year, from what I understand. Lol

Ok thanks for the feed back mate. It's a Garrett GTX3582R 6Boost twin scrolle manifold with dual Tial MSV waste gates with the divid rear housings. I have some good pics of the setup but I'm still working out how to post them from my IPad. The motor is stock right now, I also got a Tomia internal fuel pump with fuel rail. To finish it of I got two Z32, AFM's and a fuel regulator. The car has a Bliz boost controller that's nice. Displays a lot of info. A power FC is standard in all my cars. Oh and the little things HKS spark plugs. I plan on installing some new injectors soon as possible. I'm sure at around 20 psi the stock injectors will reach there max duty cycle. My goal is around 700hp to the wheel and for reliability I will build the motor after I feel this set up stoking it with Tomie's 2.8l stoker kit. The hp was is not just the main thing I am looking for, response is mainly my ultimate disiure. But yet keeping a high realistic hp level should be funny to drive on the week days, with minamal lag. Building the motor for response will untimatily yeid more than just the pumping air into it setup. ( turbo setup) So any good ideals for the cam lift and duration alone with degree would play a key factor in gaining max respond, and for me trying the turbo setup first will kind of open my eyes to where the weak or lacking spots are in the power band. Keeping these things on mind when building the motor. Keep it coming mate I appreciate all your help. I will read up on the GTX posts thanks

Ok mate but can you help my in finding someone with a similar setup

Hi I've finally gotten a GTR, and now I'm wondering if my upgrades will give me a fast spool and good power. Well I'm looking for about 700 hp to the wheels. The car came from Japan with about 12000 Km on the clock with all paper work even I was surprised to get the fax on the car from the dealers info list. The car only had one owner and he died a while back so the car sat for a very long time. Well even the engine shows signs of low milage, but even with all the paper work for the car I still don't believe them. My main reason for not be leaving them is because the car has a new model blitz boost controller greedy twin plate clutch I can hear it. Greedy FMI. Oil cooler kit with full mines exhaust, along with some HKS gauges. Well after reading up on the GTR's I now know that the turbos are the first weak link, so I contacted Kyle at 6boost and asked him his recommendations for max power with very fast spool. He mentioned that I can go with a gtx3582r with Garretts twin scrole housing, he will build me a twin scrole manifold using twin Tial MSV waste gate. The engine is fully stock, but I'm planning on building it using the Tomie stocker kit for the bottom end, and going with a fully built head from Jun in Japan. Now I already have the turbos waste gate, and manifold from Kyle at 6 boost. I'm only waiting on the oil return lines and some couplings to link the turbo to the intercooler piping. What do you guys think of the setup. Will it be very fast spooling? How will it work on a stock motor, and what would the max boost be on a stock motor now that I can boost past 1 bar. With a good tune of course. Will the turbo be to small with the strocker kit? I have build GTST and run 30+ psi on them and after a long time now I have learnt all of there weakness What I have found is that the hydraulic litters fail, and the GTRs head uses solid litters, I always wondered if I was to use a NEO head how it would work, cause the NEO head is solid as well. After launching the GTR the 4wd system won me over. Launching at 8500 RPMs kills a new vet in the quarter he runs me down but can't pass me before the finish first and second gear takes it. LMAO only if I new these GTRs are so fast stock even my 30+ psi GTST can't catch it in the quarter. We don't race on a official track we use paved roads so traction is a bitch. I can't wait to see how fast the spool is, and I'm guessing with this manifold the GTX turbo should love it. Hands down to Kyle from 6 boost for building the best manifolds I've ever seen.

Is it possible to fit 19x11 +5 with 275/30/19 tires all around on a R33GTR with coil overs and standard brembo brakes, the wheels in mind are work Miester S1-3 with r type disk. What offset is the above GTR running the car in question is the only GTR with miesters on it

I have the same problem right now. Are the r34 GTR and R33 GTR have the same size rear fender size. Can the wheels from that white R34 GTR fit on a R33 GTR? I would like to use 19x10.5 at +12 offset all round with 285/75R19 all round. The car has coil overs and standard Brembo brakes. I really like the staggered look and would really like to see some more pics of a R33 GTR on some work wheels. What do you guys think would give me the best looking setup I like that drift look with allot of lip if possible with out compromising tire size. Thanks mate.

Hi I own a 1995 Nissan GTR GTR. It has a set of coil overs and standard Brembo brakes, but in the future in looking to up grade the brake to some AP racing cal piers and rotors. I would really like to have a set of wheels with a lip. I own a 240sx wide body with Volk GTC, I think they would look good on a GTR but having 2 cars with the same wheels would suck. So after looking around I found work miester S1-3 I was looking to do a staggered set up if possible on the GTR. I was thinking 19x10.5 with a +12 offset all round is this about right. With 285\35\R19 I don't mind rolling the front and rear fender inner lips for that full look. I just can't seem to find any R33 GTR with work Miester S1 wheels at all. Any help would really go a lone way as I'm planning on buying these wheels next month.

i would like to buy the power fc for GTST- what are you asking for the power fc, and if the price is good i will pay for it ASAP Thanks mate

Well i dont know if he did that i would have to go through the jumper harness and see what he did. I have the car running with the RB25det mod map. The car runs fine, but i would still like a fresh base map to start from. When i'm off this week i will take the data logger out my GTST and install it in my GTR, pull some logs and tune the car so that i can puch it a little bit more. Oh and i will have to get a wide band for it as well. Here is somthing werd when i got the car it had a small miss fire, before i pulled anything i tried the power fc Thinking that it make be an electrical problem, After pluging up the fc the miss went away and never did it again. What do you think that is?????? Thanks mate

Does anyone have the original Base map for a Ljetro power FC. The reason being is that i just got a used one, But the owner had it running a gtst. He reflashed the unit and lost the original maps of the GTR. On the Initialize feture it would just reuse the last flashed map right? So the gtst map will just go back to the form it was when it was first flash.??? Thanks mate.

Yes mate the motor looks like a little wiper motor. I was thinking that it may be for the A-LSD. Yes Nose LTD. sent me the log book for the car from what i can make out, the car had 2 owners in the pass the first took it to 8000 km's and the second to 12300, and now i took it to 13950km's I've been reading up on the 4wd system here on sau. I didn't know that i need to run the same rim and tyre size. Now what about the width if the wheels.?? Can i use like 11's ine the rear and 10's in the front, but all in the same size rims like 18's. please if there is anything that i need to know about the car please do tell, and thanks agian mate.