MJTru

I dont quite understand your expansion. Why does it happen in the first place. And why not on a stock stock setup. I thought once shimmed with the right gaps it would be ok.

Did I say somthing wrong?? why is this dead

Its the only photo I have of it. If you magnify the photo you will see the part that got moded. The other side is fine and lines up.

The 25 sump and oil pan doesn't just fit straight on. There is some fabrication that needs to happen. After you bolt up the 25 oil pick up. The oil pan wont just go on. After you figure out how to get it on you will notice that the oil pan is hitting the base of the oil pickup. Then if you want you can grind the pickup base which I dont like to do because it can lead to oil problems later because of how much you have to grind off to fit the oil pan on the block. When I did it I simply modified the rb25 oil pan in that section. I heated it up and shaped the side in a round fashion to clear the oil pickup base. Then if I remember its still has one bolt I had to sacrifice which was no big deal as the sealant (silicone) took care of that. What I would do if I did it again is as mentioned above use the 26 aluminum oil pan and cut the diff off and weld in parts that needs to be filled in. Go on RaceFab and look at how they did it on there site. Or just buy one from them.

I usually get rid or block off the pcv vlave. I run two number 12an fittings off the top of my valve covers to a catch tank with a breather filter on top. I have noticed no oil in the can. I dont like the pcv working because it makes the intake so dirty. My setup has always worked providing the engine does not have excessive blow by.

Yes I agree with above^^^^^ Please send photo of engine bay. do you think you might have painted a contact for one of the injector power supply. Next did you remove the vtc timing sprocket to paint it. ??:huh:

Hmm. It seems like this is a normal occurrence. I did the same way way back went I had my first car. Honda civic.

If the car is an auto I dont think the power fc will work If I can remember correctly. I think your best bet would be nistune and there running r35 afm now with good results. The afc gives control of adjusting the afr's but your hands are tied when it comes to tuning the ignition curve. The last and best option but way more costly is somthing like a motec or haltech ecu. Where the options are endless.

I enjoyed reading this post. Keep it going. I would agree with Piggaz it does look cool but it must be a big lag monster. But does it ever look so amazing.

A photo of the motor

Ok so I looked at the link on how to brake in a motor. Thanks for that it was very interesting stuff. I never in my widest dreams think thats the best way. But it makes total sense. I actually did this to. Kml As I was driving the car a r33 gtr that just landed on the island came up from behind. So that was my opportunity. We went at it and wow I ant even know what happened, but was it ever embarrassing. The car had no power didnt want to go at all. I even stalled out as the r33 left us. Next thing ya know the car didnt want to start as if my battery was dead. Thank god I had 3 friends inside, and they gave me a push start. We then came home. I couldn't even sleep late night I was so bugged. So it was sunday, the day we race. Knowing well enough I can't race the car all I did was fine tune the fuel pressure from 37 psi to 40 psi and installed a new waste gate I had. Still lost to why the car was popping and all the previous night. So after heading out to the tracks I had a few drinks and I made up my mind to give it another go. Like holly shit I ant know what happened maybe the motor needed a heat cycling like the link mentioned. But man it eat up 1.5 bars. I couldn't believe what I was feeling. And the HKS Came setup pulled so hard after 5k its as if the cars wants more rpms. Im so amazed by the difference. After I got home first think I looked at was oil pressure hot it was still at 38 psi and at 3k its around 100psi. This is with 10w30 mineral motor oil. Im thinking of going with a 40 weight oil tho. But I will make up my mind when my new oil temp gauge reach. The one I have right now is mest up. Thanks for all the help guys. ^_^

Yes it is. I feel one of the biggest problems will be what approach you will use oil pan wise. But for the better part it can bolt right up. Good luck.

Damn ant know how I missed all that. Its the same damn thing he was saying-_-

Yes GTSBoy I agree thats what he was saying. I may have missed somthing tho. A rule of thumb for me is. Any mods to fuel or air should be mapped and retuned. Intresting info GTSBoy as I never thought it would affect the injectors the way you mentioned it. I will be looking into this. Also intresting to know it would make more difference in the down low area. Hmmmm

Kml. This happened to me the first time I launched a gtr. I just got pissed off and tried to kill the thing after a 5k launch didnt work. Thats when I learned that all they like is revs. For me keep it 100rpms under redline or fuel cut. Then pop the clutch and let the bitch rip. For years I tried to beat a gtr with a gtst and never could, but the day I got a good launch in a gtr, I said right away to myself. I need an official drag strip with track bite to beat a grt off the line, and to the 1320 feet mark. Gtrs are truly street kings mate, at least for me.

Lol. I want to do somthing along this line. But its way easier to just run a surge tank and as I plan to run 3 external pumps. 044's. Im planning on having the stock pump fill the surge tank and have it overflow back to the stock tank. Im hoping this will be good for about 600hp to the wheels.

You should use the rb26 harness. If its a r32 harness its better as all the plugs are the same as the r32 gtst. You should use the body and engine harness. It just works like if the car was a r32 gtr, the only thing that won't work will be the fact that the r32 gtr has the 3 gauges at the middle of the dash. You will also need a moded rb26 oil pan with the front diff removed. You can contact racefab, and get one but it isn't cheap. Or you can mod a rb25 oil pan to fit the rb26 which takes a bit of creative thinking, but can work if your a good metal worker. Thats about it I would say. Well major issues that is. Im not to sure how the engine mounts will line up as I did it to a r32 gts4 and it dropped right in. I hope it was helpful info. Update me please on your progress.

This is weird. I wired a power fc for a gtr to work in a gtst. I got it and it all worked good. Of course I had no vtc. What I learned was that all rb ecu wants to see a high impedance resistance. The rb25 are high impudence injectors and the gtr rb26 are low but the gtr has a resistor pack to boost the low impedance injectors to a high ohm reading. So in short all ecu's wants to see high impedance signal. I really think nissan thought peopel wouldn't get this. Lol. If you have high impedance injectors on a rb26 ecu.?? Just get rid of the resistor pack (rewire) it and you will be ok. From a resistance stand point.

Interesting mate. I just came back from running the car. I also got into it. I ran like half rpm's at about 10 psi. All looked good. As I had the power fc data logit recording it all. Afr's were a little lean. But because isn't max load it should be ok. After driving the car for about 20 minutes the oil pressure was still 40 psi. Well to be exact its like 38 psi at idle. My oil temp gauge is on the way. But I know from just feeling the oil filter its around 75c I think. I ant sure as my comparison is from my r33 gtr that has the stock oil temp gauge. And that never passes 80c. I think its in Celsius. Im just going off of my r33 gtr oil filter feeling. This is bad and I know this. But untill my gauge reaches, ill never really know. What I forgot to mention is the bore was ok and I never bored the block. Its still the stock bore.

Ok so I just insalled my manual oil pressure gauge. When cold and strated its at 85 psi at 1000 rpms when hot or reach normal operating temperature it drops to 40 psi at around 950 rpms at idle if I rev the car it jumps to 90 psi right away. Its definitely more than 10psi for every 1000 rpms. Please check the photos of it when its at cold start up and when warm. I also took photos of the stock oil gauge which seems to be working right now. I feel air does be trapped in the gauge are this is why the gauge tend to lie. My oil pressure is with castrol gtx 10w30 motor oil. My bearing clearance is .003.

What the remote oil line. ??

Are you guys serious when you say push a new motor hard. ?? Whats hard to you guys. Go straigjt to 30 psi. Kml. Are you serious. Or just pull the rpms hard?? Off and on throttle I understand. But it sounds like you guys are saying to just straight up try kill the thing. Lol:D:D

If I can remember correctly isnt mineral oil normal conversational motor oil like what I used. ??? I used castrol GTX 10w30.

I know what your saying. Im running like .003 bearing clearance. I dont think its to tight but ive always done this. After I install my manual oil pressure gauge ill know exactly what my idle psi and 3k psi is. Its funny that you would menstion oil drian or return. I have a fully stock r33 motor with about every bolt ons you can have. Single gtx3582r. and run mobil 1 15w 50 as thats there replacement for 20w50. And I dont have no issues. I drag race that car. No head drain or nothing. I puch it hard too. But i now have a build rb26 in a gts4 that im working on getting finished up right now. Its running a tomie oil pump and seems like at idle its at a lower pressure reading than my stock r33 rb26 motor. Ill see whats going on in a few minutes. Im sure that the factory cluster gauge is lieing. At idle after warmed up its just under the first white mark.

I started up my motor with 10w 30 oil. I took it for one drive no more than 5 minutes. Im now going to install my manual oil pressure gauge and change my oil to 20w 50 full synthetic by mobil one. This is the weight I always used. I dont even know why I really used 10w30. -_-