MJTru

Ill be doing it or trying it on a r32 gtr. There saying the caliper brackets will work on the r32 gtr. Ill have to see. If not ill just drop it on my s14 silvia. I have. I have installed skyline calipers on the wrong side and the bleeder nipple was on the bottom side before. Swap them and the nipple went to the top. Thought it might have been as easy as that. But could be wrong. As for the piston thing and the leading edge. Ant know nothing about that. Why would it make a difference. ?? Of you can elaborate a bit im sure the fuzzz in my head would clear up a bit.

Thats intesting. I never thought it would drop the fuel pressure. If that was the case. Here comes a lean situation. I might as well stick with the one I have and run the cooler. What do you think of the idea of running the surge tank return and the rail return through the cooler. Or would it be best to just run the rail return through the cooler only.

I think thats just a mock up photo. He he simply swap the calipers from left to right or right to left the bleeder screw will move to the top. Simple enough. As for if the master needs to be changed. I haven't heard anthing on that topic as yet. But the american guys just bolted it up and use them without a master change out. No complaints there as yet. Worst case is that there using the 300zx z32 master cylinders. Im the ginny pig as I just ordered a set up and will post my finding when they arrive

Hmmm. So what your saying is I should just keep my FPR and just add the cooler at the end before it gets to the tank.

Lol. I had already gotten these 044 pumps so I cant go the fuel lab stuff. Live and learn. Next time. Ok I did say it all wrong. Here goes again. Ok there are some FPR out there that has the fuel pump pressure go straight to them. (Pressure to FPR) insted of the fuel rail. Now these types of FPR are away like most are from the engine and are commonly located on the fire wall. Internally speaking now there are up to 4 feed lines going to the rail and when referring to this setup there is no return from the rail. The only return in from the FPR. the only difference in the two setups are one always flowing fuel from the rail to the FPR. The other just pressures the rail and returns from the regulator. I feel a regulator of that kind can reduce heat a whole lot. Due to the fact that the engines heat isn't being added to tye fuel on the way back. I think this time around I did the expansion a bit better.

Hmm. Well I guess your right there. For once im on the lucky side. Lol

Is any of those cars a r32 gtr.

Ok im doing the diagram now. Lol. It's still hell. Fitting wise. But I dont agree with the fuel returniong off the rail. I should just feed that with pressurized fuel. If it returns off the rail to the regulator. Thats added engine heat being pass within the fuel that the engine is making. But they have FPR that has the pressure goes to it and from the regulator it goes (pressurized here to the rail) in the regulator the regulations of pressure happens and it then returns to the cell. I hope you understand that part. Now for the Tee part. Lol bear wit me here please. So as the fuel is being returned to the cell it will go through the cooler at that point I want to take the over flowing fuel that the lift pump is pumping to the surge tank = over flowing fuel as well and tee that into the cooler with the fuel coming from the FPR. That way all overflowing fuel is cooled. Ha there. Can you see it now.

Thanks im running two 044. Was reading up a bit on if they would heat up the fuel a whole lot. What ive came up with is my regular needs to be changed. I need one that return the fuel right from the regulator and not the rail to the regulator. That would be away to keep fuel temps down. As well as putting a tee on the surge tank return and the fuel regulator return and sending those line through the cooler before it goes back to the cell. Damn im pull what little hair I have out my head counting fittings and all. Thanks again mate:wacko:

Where in the fuel system is the best place to place a fuel cooler. On the feed/pressure side, or the return side back to the cell. Low pressure. Im working it out right now and if I was to guess I would say the return.

This is what you need mate

Thanks much appreciated.

Hmm intresting to small.to see with the eyes. Whats the gtrs??

Well shipping cost will be around 1500 usd round trip. My only issue would be a tuner thats familiar with the PS2000. ecu. BUT the shipping may be cheaper as a new ship is being commissioned in the next month. That would be around 700 round trip. You can pm me there info and I can consider them. But if I had known that MY PS2000 was so Australia based I wouldn't have gotten it. See how much I love you guys engineering skills.

From what he is saying only the brake lines would be in question. The z32 300zx should work on a r32 gtr though. Seems like some strict laws in Australia. Hmmm:angry: damn governments.

Funny laws over there. This package includes adaptor brackets. For the 550

Part numbers are listed above a reference google photo. I haven't make my mind up as yet. But im leaning towards doing it.

At enjukuracing ask for Andrew he has the whole setup for 550 dollars. Look at the follow photos of the part numbers. Its dead cheap. Even worth the effort. I sceen shot our conversation. The part numbers are there. They look bad as☆ on the cars and are very very big he also have me a quote at 1100 if I wanted a 2 peace rotor, but at the 550 its worth the effort.

That was not my doing. that was my mates idea. You guys always good for a good laugh. :lol:

I took a trip to the states and saw some guys using Cadillac CTS big brake calipers and evo rotors, and from what they say it cost the 500 dollars or less for everything up front. Almost all of them I see is on s14 silvia or s14 240sx has any one tried these setups on the r32 gtrs as it would be a great up grade for very minimal cost. Im thinking about doing it. I know I have done it tge next way around. I have put r32 gtr brakes on a s14 silvia. And only the metal gaurds needs to be straighten out for the bigger rotors everything else fits. Ive even did it from r34 GTT to s13 and only the bolt holes needs to be open up on the front knuckles. (Caliper mounting area) plus the metal plate being flattened out. Anyone seen this before?????

Hi I just got a set of Work Meisters s1 3p. I hope the disk and offset will work. Its for a r32 gtr. The fronts are 18x10.5 +12 R disk the rears are 18x10.5 +11 O disk. I have intensions on rolling the lips on the gaurds. Any ideas. The attached photo is the exact sizing of the wheels. From Work Japan.

This is interesting. I have personally took r33 gtst heads well over 30 psi of boost and beat the living hell out of them. What I hated was the hydraulic lifters some would fail on me. I've always wanted to do a neo head on my r33 gtst and see what would happen. Keeping in mind the motor was built. Looking at the cylinder head combustion area how can you guys tell its a neo. It looks the same as a r33 gtst head to me. Is there somthing im missing. For me I only wanted a neo head for the solid lifters like a gtrs head. Hmmm. Interesting post mate.

:lol::lol::lol: kml. Mate I was thinking the same thing. I have a r33 gtr and that has to this day hold my position at the tracks. This r33 is screaming for fuel to do better. But it hasnt lost a race as yet. So I know hands down this 32 tuned right will deal with my problems and then get stored away. My r33 took down well tuned 600hp supras. But I feels im in for an awakening this year so im getting ready. Thanks you were a big help mate.

Wow. I dont see why you wouldnt want the vtc. My vote would be vtc 100% if you have stock cams. And as for tuner its always nice to compare against other guys and see which one take the time to educate you and then can give you a good documented result.

Long time ago I had a boost controller wit 2 stages built in it. It was a simple setup and you can easily buy one today. Ill look for it as.i feel I still have it to this day. It had a little switch that what ever you set the two stages to it would active the second setting. But one of.the best boost controller I have ever used in my life was by world electronic it was call a TBC. It goes for like 1k now and its touch screen. I was ridiculed for buying it. But no one would understand how great itnis until fully understanding how it first works and the advantages of a electronic boost controller over a manual one. But ayway a little off topic there. It had a scrabble boost setting. You could have armed it to last for a predetermined time like 10 seconds. So ill be driving along and a friend pulls up on the side of me. We start the race hit the scrabble boost botton and there he went. By no means do I encourage illegal street racing here. I was young and dumb then.