MJTru

Man. I was and will brake it down. Because all the oil is at the bottom in the sump. Chances are the coming around the crank will hit some oil and splash the oil to the intake side and just as it passes the center line, and that where ever you plan to place your an fitting. Then it becomes a vacuum. On the back end of the crank. Not that it spit it out or sucks it in. All im saying it that its totally even on eather side. Its simple. This reminds me of a f1 engineers can look at an engine block and tell how the layout internally is placed. This gift is priceless. Hence the 6 figure pay cheque. Look. If the carnk is in a 360 degree situation and most of the oil is in the bottom how can the crank coming up from the oil source before the center line not bring oil with the rotation (wet setup here) and after pacing the center line which is 90 degrees in most occasions only after that is there a vacuum. Only after that point of where you place your oil vent or an fitting. Just my two cents mate. But my friend is very very skilled at it but we haven't talked in years but went to school together. His pay has separated use over time. I have sent him an email. I invited him to the bahamas. Im sure if he comes this conversation wouldn't even matter. I just would be happy to have seen him again. But his skill I wouldn't even question in liquid dynamics. Not for one second. This is a great thread guys. Reminds me of why I like this form so much

Wow that was weak. But its not an argument mate. Its just a discussion. A friend of mines from collage has a software witj liquid dynamics and he does some really good stuff with it. Ill see if I can have him do somtjing to show you my piont. As for reiterating. Things on threads thats a given. Cause from reading this tread which on of the best ive read so far. There is more if I may say off topic discussion around really good points. For exsample way back from page 16 and down someone menstion venting the sump. The difference is he didnt go into details people said no its a supply problem. But as I read on some people just changed the idea and place the vent line in the catch tank and change up the wording just a bit. Here what ill do all the same and use the opposite side for a comparison sake. I appreciate all advise on here. When I help people on here I dont have any problem saying things over agian. I just clean it up better the second time around.

I understand that, but its still a circle. The vacuum can be created right after it passes the center line. And to me that a equal effect after all all the engineers at nissan couldnt get it all that wrong. So the a 2jz is was better not cause of 500cc more but because they placed the oil return on the opposite side. I feel the oil return based on side is just hype. The method in getting the motor to breath and manage blow by as well as oil drain is like 95% more valid than what side on the sump should be chosen. Thats all im saying.

Wow maybe I have a compression problem. I read it and its still used to drain oil. Or a method of managing blow by. But all my stuff is on the turbo side no fittings are on the intake side. I feel there is no evidence that one side is better than the other. It like saying I took a leek on the back side of a tree. There is no back side. A circle is a circle. Right after the center line it becomes equal again. So I might be wrong here but thats my 2 cents.

I am as we speak. Just to work but im am reading it as time permits. What funny is someone mentioned venting the sump would let the oil drain easier. This I read in the first 16 pages. But at that time peopel weren't jumping on board. I will go back and reread that. So venting the sump will work. Hmmmm??? if this is the case I have to mod my setup. See I only have one oil return on my racefab sump and that goes to the rear head oil return. The front turbo drain is for the single gtx3582r. I can pull the sump out to do that so im thinking ill move the head drain to the second spot that was used for the rear turbo when it was stock. Then vent the sump. What you guys feel about that. I drag racing this car and intend on spinning the motor to 9k on some days.

Explain a little more about the sump breather. You have photos of it mate.

Im at page 16. Well im not having this problem with my 26 as yet. But all my 25 are doing this. Ill read the last 15 pages then. I still want to read the whole thing though. Heres an idea. Just an idea though. See that other are open to menstion ideas. From the back of the head drain cant some kind of pump be added and controlled to come one at a predetermined rpm point. Using a rpm trigger switch. This pump will be inline and pump the extra oil from the head to the sump. Just an idea.

This is what im talking about

Ok for years this even to this day has been a problem for me. Now im only on page 5 of this thread and intend on reading it all anyways. But I have a few points that I know about from reading here and on other nissan sites. The oil pump collar problem ive personally gotten over. The oil blowing out not so much. All my 25 suffer from this. I feel its the additional rpms I run like 8500rpms. And now im learning that these rb motors were ment for only 6k. Like what the hell. Ok so ive done like 3 things out the list 1. I did the head drain 2. I did the restrictor in the block but now learning I shouldn't run 2 of them but should have blocked one out. (To late) dont mind pulling the head. 3. I did the collar. FYI.All my 25's run N1 oil pumps. Thats it. I have always looked at the head. The oil returns by the head bolts is what you gays are saying to drill out bigger and the same to the block.?? They seem big enough as is, as part of the washer covers a part of the hole already and if made bigger then what will the bolt/stud pull on? next is at the very back of the head there is 2 major oil drain its in the photo ill attach. What do I do to these. Just hone them out as big as I can go. ?? Last can some post photo if not already in the thread again please, as im only on page 5 at 15 pages a day is my goal:D Now all of this said. Just a estimate here can an rb motor now do 10k all day with other issues and dont blow oil out. ????? This issue needs to be addressed. With my rb26 build I regret now not doing the machining of the oil return ports I am running an oil accumulator and a racefab 9.5L sump cooler and a tomie oil pump 1.1 oil restrictor size. Im so frustrated :wacko:at this. As im running a tomie oil pump as well, And I will be spinning this motor at about 9k or more cause I dont care for it especially now. Well ill continue reading bye

Thanks mate thats what I was after. 15 pages a day. Lol

Do you have any photos mate.

Thats intresting. Rd20 I just got rid of one out of a laurel. Kml. I was woundering the same thing. But now its gone. As for me mate i woulf do a rb26 swap the sky is the limit then. See for me after you pay to get them 3 numbers (what ever that is) lol. The 26 would be right there. So why stop. Plus I would figure just looking at videos that the race shops there have all kinds of gurus that deal with rb26 more than 25 or 20 for that matter. Funny cause I have had both motors and found that I like a 20 better than a 25 from a stock stand point. The 25 for me I broke ring landings at 24psi. Was lacking a bit of fuel tho. Who cares though. Lol. I took it to its limit to find the weakness. Next was a rb20 in a gts4 body. Same thing took it to lits limits and damaged the con rod bears on number one cylinder. These motor were all stock. And the rb20 was doing 26psi. Lacking fueling again. I feel all the failures upon wear down and looking back at the logs had nothing to do with fuel. Me personally I liked the 20 dont know why but I just do. I guess it might have been the 4wd platform. Get a rb26 trust me. Live life with no regrets. Lol;)

Simple question here. Where is the thread for oil issues in rbs. I know there a big topic just cant seem to find it. Helpppp anyone

I have just a few question. Couldn't you do what I did for a mate. We got a r33 gtst with the the rb20 sohc in it. We did this for insurance purposes. Then we replaced it with a full build rb25det. We did the whole works. Even the suspension rear end. Now it put it short it has everything a r33 gtst would come with. I guess my question would be. Do they actually check the engine size or do the just look at the tags on tye car. Damn if that was the case. I would runn a rb26 and just on the block mod it to say rb20. Im guessing it has to do with displacement. Mate. Do whats legal. I hate these damn governments

He just took his gt35r from his r32 gtr to install it into his 2jz mark2 auto. He needs to build his r32 gtr. Thats Thechuck.

Yeah guys so happy there here. Two good guys. Thechuck and rickypr33. Side note please tell TheChuck to build his r32 GTR.

Ok guys move this post now its off topic. Hes a douche bag. Kml:lol::lol::D

Ok ill let him know right away thanks mate. :lol::lol:

I know but thats his phone. I guess he could have screen shot it and whats app it to me. Ya he logs in with username and password. -_-

Sorry flash was on. Bad photos-_--_-

These are the photos

Here are some photos of when I logged on his phone and when he is using his phone. The little pen icon is when I logged on

No it cant be GTSBoy. Its the administrators settings because I just logged in on his phone and I can post and everything. Please contact tye administration department and help us out. He is ready to join Nico club. And I ant want that.

Thanks mate. Today we race against ourselves. Cause the other guys didn't even show up. So we challenged ourselves and man did this mod make a difference. Like night and day. I cant wait to work on the suspension geometry next. Hope my mate has the cash for the suspension modes. Cause he is having posting problems on this site. Take that rickypr33. Kml:D:lol::lol:

No none of the above is visible.