MJTru

Well all the electronics stayed the same all i did was change the gear box. Today i bleed both spots on the pump and the actuator on the rear of the transfer case. I have two different tires on the front. I ordered 4 of the same tires and will test it after they arrive. Last time i had all the same tires on the stock wheels and it seemed way more aggressive. I am noticing the gauge moving, its just not moving as much as last time. If the g sensor is disconnected wont the 4wd light come on. Thanks for the reminder. Ill check that cause i did have some of the wire disconnected to remove the torque split controller. Cant remember if it was plugged back up. I would figure the 4wd light would come on if that was disconnected???? The car i took the box out of only had 84k on the clock anf was always stock not even a boost controller in it. Thanks for all the suggestion guys ill check that g sensor tomorrow first thing.

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Ok i drilled a small hole in the box and used a screw driver to jam the ring gear. Next i torque the 30mm bolt to 303 foot pounds. It worked fine. I will put this hole in all my rb26 gear box. See attached photo.

Hmm. I searched all over cant seem to find a good thread. I have 2 transfer case and was wondering if i can use two or stock the clutch disks more than normal. ??

Hi guys i have a gts4 with a full gtr gear box swap in it. The problem that im have is it isnt gripping in the front wheels like another box i had in there was graping (front wheels) prior to this one. Is it possible that it needs to bleed up more. I bleed up until i saw no air, but this was from the back of the box and i know theres another spot by the motor on top the diff. Do you guys think this would cause a problem.? Next is it possible to rebuild the transfer case as i dont mind doing it. Do you guys know of any threads here that has a step by step rebuild procedure just as a reference to follow. Also whats the best place to find the replacement disks for the transfer case. Thanks a million.

Hmm. I didnt notice that part. Isnt the rb26 446 Nm

Hmm intresting to see all the ways you guys do it. So today we started on the rb25s. I noticed a hole in the box that i used to jam the flywheel with and was able to get some good torque on the bolt but my torque wrench only went to 175 foot pound. I will get a bigger one tomorrow. Im not feeling the in gear method. But i must admit that ive used it before. I rather take the starter out. What i do find wierd is the manual doesn't show how to do it.

Thanks Piggaz. What method do you guys use to hold the crank for that kind of torque.

Wow. Holly carp

I have searched like crazy and have been finding mixed results on an rb26 damper bolt torque spec. The manual is somewhere in the range of 446 nm. Is this right? that seems a bit high. A 2jz im working on is 249 foot pounds. I just want to make sure as i dont want to snap this bolt.

Yes mate danger is so close i can feel it. Lol. Im actually thinking of buy a dyno for my shop. I just need to know that i would be able to use it maximize my results as dumb as that comment may sound. I have been trying to learn as the years go by. Simply by trial and error. Even with a dyno i would need these knock devices. So an early investment would be good. What would you recommend as a good knock detection tool.???All the guys i race are in the same situation and i can say that they all run 2zj motor. Im actually building one now and can say im against a tuff challange the motors are strong and from what i see all the 2jz flaws are on the head. Yes our rbs only have the oil return only on one side but i see lots of other flaws in the jz heads. But there easily fixed. Back to the point here. These jz guys run aem ecu's and they all copy tunes from one guy to the other. It seems to me that they understand that an ecu is a buffer between the fuel injectors and load values including the volumetric efficiency (displacement) so what some guys do is just tell them what injectors to use and upload the tune by selling it to them . Then they do a road tune and clean it up a bit.looking at the knock levels. They make good money doing this. I dont understand why the same on this site cant be done using maths. Lol. I always liked that reply. But i feel using all.the same conditions. Like lets say a freshly built rb26 stock internals. On 98 ron. Giving an injector that suppied by the tuner. And afms or map sensors. Why cant tunes be sold. The rest can be easily fixed up. Im sorry if i went off topic here just thought i would mension it.

Thanks GTSboy. You were always good at clearing things up. Your gifted mate. I know i got a little confusing at the end thats way i was nervous about being ridiculed. One time i had lots of fire out my exhaust and it seem like it was to close to the tdc mark after i gave it more time to burn. Move the spark time more btdc it made more power and stopped the fire out the tail pipe. Can i ask? what you would contribute to having the exhaust pop on gear shift or just busting a flame at gear shifting. ????

First i would like to say that i have found over the years that tuners that i meet are a little reluctant to talk to teach what they know. I dont blame then as it seems a hard topic with lots of methods leading to a tuned car. Ok so here goes. Can we agree for the simplest that the spark starts before top dead or does it start after top dead center (tdc)? about what degree do we see usually see full cylinder pressure after combustion? Next when some say the term advance the timing whats happening. this is the part im a bit confused in my head. Is that giving it more time to burn so for exsample say the spark happens at 7 degrees atdc advancing it would strat the spark earlier to tdc mark giving it more time to burn. Or is that the other way around for exsample retarding the timing. Now if the spark is firing btdc bcause the fuel needs time to burn and reach maximum cylinder pressure by this time the piston has passed tdc and starts the power stroke. This i believe is how it works. So we are starting the fire a bit btdc and we ask to advance it, whats happening?? Does this term in this exsample (advance) starts the spark later to tdc giving it more time to burn and maximum cylinder pressure would be closer to the atdc area. Sorry if this seems confusing. I can do my best to expalian what im trying to get across here. Just clearify a few things first. Thanks guys. I have a strong feeling ill be ridicule for this post. I sat here thinking about it for 12 hours. Damn

Ok its all back together. The original gtr pump is working. I'm having a very rich condition at wot now. Time to tune it out. A wot im at 10.0.

Thanks XGTRX this car was put together as a junker. So i didnt really spend no big money on it. And im not planning on buy a electrical fuel pressure gauge for this car. But check the amount of liters a minute im getting. iirc i think a rule of thumb is 1 liter a minute will be good for 200hp (flow) so 3.5 should be good for 700hp. I just finished replacing the pump and went back to the stock rb26 pump at least i know what i have there. I will know if it leans out now and make a comparison.

I do have a fuel pressure gauge on it. I have it on the fpr. I have the pressure set to 44 psi. When i was having this power loss problem i changed the pump. Didnt like how it looked to much. I was thinking to reinstall the original one and do a comparison. Its fine in the midrange of the throttle. But when i go to WOT it starts to go lean. Having a power fc how do most tuners find out that the fuel pump isnt up to the task.?? And needs to be upgraded.

Update i was so wrong the problem was still there. It did turn out to be a afm connection. XGTRX you were right. Sorry i didnt check sooner-_- This is my problem now at 14psi using this holset hx35 it seems like i ant have enough fuel im giving giving fuel in the power fc even using the injection correction to test and ill max out my injector duty cycle and A/F's are very lean at 16.1 to 17.1. Does this mean my fuel pump isnt up to the task. Im using stock rb26 injectors.

Well thanks for the refresher course. Lol. Thats good for whem first firing up the power fc. Well it so happened to be the 2 relays on the side of the computer. iirc ecc and fuel pump. I replaced them and nothing has happened as yet. The idle was going up and down but that wasnt an issue at the moment i would just relaern the idle when i have everything worked out. A/Fs are all safe at around 16:1 on very light loads and goes up to 13.6 then to 12.1 at WOT. wasnt worried there. I just hooked up my datalogit and saved a few files then reintialized the power fc and the idle is perfect now. I was in the process of tuning it when this problem happened. Happy to have found it. I was going crazy. Thanks for all the suggestion guys.

I will open the top of that one afm and checknit out after this test. I have swapped the afm around to see if the problem will move from the fc commander. If happens after 15 minutes of driving. im using the power fc on open loop no oxygen sensors. Would this cause a problem as ive never done that before. ???

Well im not using gtr afm im using 2 r33 s2 afm. Can the same thing happen to those. Ill swap them around and see if the problem moves from afm 1 and go to afm 2 that way ill figure out if its the afm or the wiring. It takes a little while to happen like 15 minutes of driving. It starts off with a little stumble in acceleration. Then it just cuts right out but the engine never dies. Pull over on the side of the road pull the hood then it revs out. I jump in the car drive and then it happens again. Last night i changed the CAS sensor with no luck as ive had some bad encounters with them being bad before. The only difference from the to motors is now im using the wires for the afm. Im going to also open the loom.for these wires and check see if there melted as they were close to the turbo at one point. Can bad grounds heat up the power fc and cause this random problem. ??? It gets pretty warm when i felt it yesterday. Whats the normal operating temperature for the unit? When its all working the cars runs like a champ. And im testing my new blow by setup and would really like to put it through its paces. This problem is just so annoying. Thanks for any help i can get.

Ok for.the last few days ive been killing myself trying to find out what the hell is going on. Ill do my best to explain whats going on. As most may know i just installed a rb26 in my gts4. Before i had a rb26 in it but had an accident and removed the current rb26 at the time d jetro and installed a l jetro rb26. Whats happening is when i drive for a while the engine dies but dont cut off it just stops making power. It just stops accelerating. But before i xan pull over it goes again and does the same thing. Ill have to pet it home and it goes and comes some time the afm 1 has goes solid black on the power fc and the exhaust temp light comes on. Ive changes the cas sensor and i stalled a new fuel pump. Still no luck. Ive noticed that on boost it goes lean when this happens and it scares me so i ease off the gas. Im really frustrated anf was wondering what you guys think. Im using a r33 powerfc in a r32 gts4 with rb26 power plant installed. Tomorrow i will put direct power to fuel pump and try it. After that in stuck as to whats happening.

I looked at these injectors and saw they have a 725cc set. They look really good. Can they really handle 8 bars of fuel pressure? thats a shocker to me. Im stock with the old sard stuff and feel like im stock in the past. Lol. I can remember using 2 550cc injectors due to atomization problems in the pass rather than one really big injector. But at those pressures i can see how they would work at low idle speeds. Seeing that im stock in the past on injector technology can someone explain to me how 1000cc can perform as good as say a stock injector at idle. Do they only have two dilivery holes like the sard 800cc i have. ?? Looking closely at them its one with a divided section that looks like two holes.

I would be intrested in a set as well mate. Whats the price for them. Would they work with a power fc

I running a power fc on a rb26. I was wonder what injectors would you guys recommend for 500hp on 98 fuel. Ive upgraded injectors on othere cars before but they were the sard type and followed paulr33 instructions on setting them up in the power fc. I was wondering what injectors you guys have used that would be to hard to set up that can support these power levels. And should i go with a walbro 255 or e85 f90000267. Thanks in advance

I understand thanks for that KiwiRS4T. So no more need for a oem stock 02 sensor. Cleaner looking engine bay. Now that you mensioned it i wounder if thats what the green wire is for on my wide band. I never pay no attention to it. Link ecu looks good mate.