MJTru

Wow Somtimes im an idiot. Cheers thanks a million mate

MATE. Give your boy your clutch sell him your car for one dollars. Give up and go to church on Mondays. Remember to skip work.

Wow those arnt worn there missing the actual friction material. Lol I did notice that they sell the plates with different thickness in the manual. Rhd took long to reply, but they asked for part number. So ill have to do my measurements before hand. What nice to know is that now i know all im changing is the thick plates. (Shimming it) i was thinking i would need to add a small disk. Talk about wrong. Please look at this link. I cant seem to find the email address and does anyone know if they still make these. ??? http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/165575-group-buy-n01-transfer-box-race-clutch-pack.html#/forumsite/21025/topics/165575?page=1

I have contacted them and awaiting a reply. If i only have to change one plate that means the wear is very minimal.? Once i burn out this clutch i have i will pull it off the box im using at the moment. I was looking at how the design is. As it wears the piston on the back of the gear box would have to move further outwards to engage the disks. I was thinking if there was some kind of adjustment that could have been done to take up for the worn disk. Like in between the piston and engagement leaver. Just a thought here.

Yes im only trying to replace the original bolts witout upsetting the gasket sealing effect like Ben C34 said. I couldn't afford to install them at the time of the build.

Yes mate i do search. I learn that cruel leason from the first day i joined sau. Seems like im still being whipped:D

Sorry mate i do always search. Guess i missed that. Sometime the thread title and subjust matter is misleading. -_-Thanks tho

The car is finished and i ran it at 14psi. It's fast but i can feel that ita getting stuffed on high rpms. Like after 7200. Think I'll upgrade to the 16cm housing and see what happens. It worth it for 169 usd.

I would like to know if anyone has done this before. Recently i installed a MLS head gasket on my rb26 but reused the stock head bolts. I was reading around the net and learned that these stock head bolts can stretch and cause the head to lift at around 25psi. What im wondering is can i drain the coolant out the block and remove one stock bolt at a time and replace them with ARP head studs, torque all to factory specs first then after all is replaced move on to the arp torque specs. Im wondering if this will work insted of approaching it like a head job. Engine is fresh with only 2300km on it. I never new these bolts were that limited so never thought to use ARP Studs. Funds were also an issue at the time. Thanks in advance.

I was hoping that there will be some help regarding the setup/layout. I was hoping someone has done it before.

Ok i understand whats going on. There are 2 outer big rings called the retainer plates then the 12 driven plates and 7 drive plates. Thats all original. The end measurement has to be .2 to .5mm by the retainer clip. Thats wit all the disks in the drum.

I would like to replace the friction plates but i cant seem to find them for sale. Only place i know is NO1 set from IIRC is RKTuning. When i go to there website i can seem to get there email.

I stand corrected there are 14 O plates

Hmm. Thats is right. But i have 13 O plates. Looks like someone has shimmed this old transfer case already. I noticed the end plates are way thicker (O) plates which makes sense.

Wow thanks mate. Will let you know how it goes. Can you clearify just one thing. The outer =O are the metal disks and the inner=l are the friction disks right????

Its done a new thread was created. Please help:wacko:

Ok i figured ill have to start a new thread on this topic. I just ripped apart a r32 gtr transfercase. It seems very to simple to pull apart. I noticed a pump in the front that sends fluid in the middle of the shaft to keep the friction disk lubricated all the time that was smart on nissans part. Next i noticed that it has a floating shaft that is responsible for sending the torque to the front wheels via a chain when the friction disks are engaged. Next thing i noticed that there is a spring thats always keeping the for the fron torque disengaged. Next there is a piston kind of like a brake caliper piston that pushed against the spring thats keeping the friction disks from engaging. So as oil pressure increase it starts to work against the spring ans slowly starts to engage the friction disks that applies torque to the floating shaft, chain starts to spin and front wheels starts to spin. I hope i got that right. ??? Here is what i noticed in the friction disk area there is metal plates all of different sizes. Im guessing that you would use one of the small ones to add to a worn unit. How would you measure it up. If its to thick the big clip wouldn't fit on the drum is what im thinking. Next does anyone know hiw to identify a worn friction disk, as i dont have a new one to compare it against. Ive read online that these friction disks are not avaliable anymore. Is this true. I really would like to find or create a thread on this build. Please note that this T-case is rusted away and it was only for practice taking it apart.

Im going to open one right now No sleep for me.

:wacko:No i just installed the box:wacko: This why i was looking all over for a thread on the transfer case because i have 2 more and was wondering if i can stack another friction plate in there. I dont see it to hard to do. I just cant find hard evidence of if its possible and what the results would be like.

:lol::lol: exactly. I placed a little rubber grommet in the hole as well. I couldnt believe how well it worked.

I can understand that. But i had the car set up the same way before the accident. Well just to add im using all the gts4 electronics. The only thing i can think of is i used the front suspension off the gtr because the gts4 wheel bearings were damaged. I would guess the front speed sensors are the same. As the drive shafts were.the same. Thats about the only electronics that was changed. I used the complete front suspension from the r32 gtr.

I know im off topic here a bit. You can install an extra friction plate in the transfer case??? This is possible

Ahh. Method i use would still be applicable

Opps missed that

What i do is an old school method but may work mate. I paint all the gears turn them and then remove all the gears to inspect the wear or contact pattern. I do that first with the original unit then compare it to what im looking for with the new one. It should be the shim method. This is the rear diff right. ??