MJTru

Only all out at 14 psi. With the same conditions its now 114 with the new fuel. Hmm ill have to return it. For this fuel. Ill pull out the data logger and go at it this week. One question. What an acceptable knock level on a power fc all out. Cruisen its like at 3 or 7 the very most. Thanks again.

The island im on just changed fuel suppliers what i noticed right away is the fuel is very bad now. What i used to get on 14psi about 47 knock on my power fc is now 114. Can any one give me some suggestions on how to adjust for this. And is 114 knock very bad. ????? I know the threshold is like 60. Damn im pissed:angry:

Well i did a hx35 from a diesel engine on a rb26 with all ebay crap amd runs strong. Not that i think this idea is a good one. The house on this turbo is very big and i can see it being very laggy. Looks like a container handler turbo to me. We have these to work at our local port.

I agree with above. If you dont have experience then its even more costly.

Interesting. Thanks mate

Depending on how this ets pro works ill go with the manual setup. This is really all an experiment really. Im after what works for me the simplest way. I do really want to try the manual setup. I still collecting parts for the setup an thought in the mean while ill give the ets pro a go. I looked over some post and Geoff mentioned that i can run manual mode and when the car is on its way flip the switch to 2wd mode. If i wire the speed sensor with some sort of controller (computer) to interrupt the switch on the ets pro 4wd 2wd mode. Im suprised that lots og guys here dont really drag race. Someone should make a drag racing section.

Damn no one is intrested in this post it seems like. Well i just bought the ETS PRO from fullrace. Cost 660 usd dilivered. I found some info saying the samething someone said here. I can put it in manual mode and full 4wd lock and let it rip. Then at high speed go 2wd. Im just trying to think of a way i can get it to go into 2wd automatically??? Brain buster. Any ideas. ???

Damn im not actually in florida but very close. If your ever in florida for a bit. Let me know ill take a trip over.

The old disk were good but just a bit worn. I measured it before disassembling it and it was over .020 inch. Sorry for that. So definitely at .008 its within factory standard.

Hmm. It was very easy to do. I just didnt change all the seals that most recommend. No leaks so far. I see what most said. Dont add the disk and block the oil drain holes in the friction disks drum. My mistake was that i didnt soke the disk in oil before installing them. Notice it locked up in 4wd wit no oil. So we didnt want to take it all apart and came up with the idea to take the engagement piston out, then it started to free spin. So we added oil and spin it free hand as well as drowning it in oil making sure we wasted money buying oil and having the whole friction disk area soke in oil. (Dumb). we then measure the clearance and we were at the minimum of .008. Once soked wit oil we still couldn't free spin it by hand. But sure with front wheel resistance it will free spin.??? Here is some photo's Very simple to do so far.

Thanks scotty nm35. I figure there only a guide. Well i figured that out after 2 motors way in the past. Lol. Truly a priceless leason. Im not to sure what EV14's are, but im guessing its a injector. Will google it. Lol. I can see as this economy picks up ill be the first here to buy a dyno and bring in tuners to teach me stuff i will need to know. It wont be no yank that's for sure. Well i hate being so ignorant. im not proud of my ignorance. Lol. But i have tired always in my life do what i want wit so so little. Even wit nothing really. Thats the true meaning of ephemeralization. Spending lots of money i learn is a false sense of security really. 2 cheap is also a curse. One person i will always say is a help and stands through the test of time so far from half way around the world not even knowing me is GTSBoy.:D:D a true humanbeing The next time this guy makes a trip to the states. I will meet him thats for sure. But i must say from a long time ago this whole site is truly pricless.

You guys might just be right. The injectors are maxing out. And fast. There rb26 injectors. I do want to buy a set of injectors but to tell you the truth. I dont have a dyno so only injectors that come with the lag times would be the set im interested in. Like the stuff on rhd japan. Once i do the formula and input it into the power fc. Its just a matter of clean up the fuel map a bit. Thats all i can do lean some mistakes maybe even blow this motor up and start over again. People say the those injectors are old fashion and i should go with some newer stuff like mega squirt or somthing like that. Does any of.you guys know what would be a good option in this situation. I really wouldnt mind a set of upgraded injectors.

Well its not detonation. The power fc is at 42 knock max at 14psi. Thats ok to me. My work tends to be tidy with nothing hitting the block (false knock) well untill i get a dyno i guess ill have to stay guessing. Or using my god given talents. I know about the torque drop off part just have no way to figure it out. Makes me want to move somtimes. So much guys blow up motors here due to tuning issues. Even i did. Untill i first learned my limits and some road tricks to follow, by no means is it a method that is better over using a dyno. I stop spending big money on parts and turbos. I use cheap ebay and Chinese crap to build, well other than the motor part. I keep it stock just fresh and push the oil issues to the limit. This whole build was under 2k. The performance is ok. But well worth the money. The only think i have going for me is i can build my own motors. Thats it. Thanks anyways guys. For everything

Dont mind that bloke. He was having fun. Please listen to the exhaust note. It kind of gets fluttered would be the best way to explain it. Damn i just dont know:wacko:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yhVVImLfieI

I see no sign of an exhaust leak.

Its right after the turbo on the down pipe

If you guys listen to the motor can you be able to tell from the sound of it. Sorry question sounds dumb. But all the other stuff seem ok. Im at around 1000f on the EGT gauge when im in the gas. What im hearing is like at top rpms when doing a durn out or lauch the rpms seems to get like a scramble sound. Dont get me wrong when i dump the clutch the car goes. I had a friend do a burn out for me so i could record the sound. Cant you by any chance tell what it might be from the sound of the exhaust. ?? Well i cant tell torque drop off no dyno:( timing im not to sure about. I can say its all cheap stuff. Cheap ebay 38mm gate $69 Cheap ebay manifold. $159 Cheap hx35 diesel turbo. $370 Stock injectors Wolbro 450 pump intank $ 110 Power fc. $800 Twin rb25 afm. $180 The motor is stock rods and pistons Just rebuilt fresh with arp head studs acl bearing, MLS head gasket. Its also has a racefab sump. And a fully refurbished head. Its really a budget build. Juat wish i could figure this out

I think a rb25 would be a choice mate. So would a rb26. But from a stock piont. The pistons ring lands are crap. For me it failed after 22 psi. Next it has a few oil problems when puched to hard. First the crank collar then the right oil restrictors according to oil pump and rpm your going to need all based on what restrictor size. Then you would want to vent the block and have a back up head drain for me on both sides of the motor worked well. Then if all of that works out. For me around 30psi the hydraulic lifters start to fail. So by saying that you can do what ive always wanted to do. Use a NEO head as its solid lifters already. I have found oil control in the rb25 way harder to control than a rb26. But it is possible. I would also invest in a oil accumulator and a bettet sump. There you go thats my experience as well as my 2 cents.

Hi guys i was wondering what and how whould an engine behave if the turbo housing is to small. Not using a dyno just pushing it hard. Im thinking the housing is a bit small on my gtr, but im a bit mixed up because the car runs so good. Any clues would be appreciated.

I have finally gotten a set of these disk from rhdjapan. FYI i spoke to mr. Hobbs and had him place the items on there site. (Search by part number) I was really suprised at how fast he got them to me. This week i will be pulling the box out and ripping it apart (T-case) to replace these friction disks. I cant wait. Then ill focus on doing the manual pump system. I just wish there was a kit out there to buy from a store. If it gets to complicated for me ill just go get the torque split controller.

Yes i agree. Its fits perfectly. I do agree with the rings part. But as the motor ages we will see. But comparing to other setups at high boost levels i would see signs of oil. I wouldnt install rusty box to flow oil through as that would defeat the whole point. I feel from all of my test that the spool head drain doesn't work to well it just gets pluged and all it is, is a nicely shaped peace of aluminum with literally a hole drilled in it. I feel the oil pools and builds up faster than it can drain and blocks the factory ports. It gets more complex in cornering g's. I have been messing with all sorts of ideas over the past year or so. Buy pooling the oil lets say in this rusty old box here. The weight of the actual oil helps to drain it back way way more efficiently. Rather than having the same idea happen in the head and overwhelming the factory hole by the last to rearward head bolts. This thing works like a water fall and frees up losts of breathing. One big down side we had was gear box swaps the engine couldnt tilt any so we had to drop the subframe till we got the box to fit then lifted it all in place. It was a pain but using a car lift the second time worked well. The benefits really out way the extra work. I do agree also with the additional stuff mensioned here as well. Properly picking the right size restrictor vs oil pump and rpms. Crank collar or newer crank. Exstended sump with good trap doors baffle. As well as good venting high above oil level. I found the rb25 to be a tougher at doing this. Without starving lifters of oil. So we approached it abit different.

Lol Thats funny. I punched the matching hole in the back of the head. In the first photo you will see it. Like i said its all was experimental But seems to work. I will remake them all out of aluminum soon as i dont have a good tig welder. And its not a ac/dc high frequency unit. So i was stuck with making it out of steel Im suprised at how well it works. Trust me mate. The finish product looked way better and turst me when i say there no rust on the end unit.

Yeah the outside is bad. The inside is good and clean. plus after is gets dipped. Then it comes out like new. By the way thats my first week of using a tig welder. Lol

We habe tested this for some time now. Its working well not a sign of oil. Think we found our solution.