Levi_

He's just talking crap, I can guarantee that 19"+ rims are still legal. Do you really think the DPI could change the law and not make some kind of announcement for the tens of thousands of car owners in WA with larger 19"+ rims. On top of that don't you think the first people they'd need to tell is manufacturers and car dealers to inform them that every car they sell will now be conflicting with West Australian road laws. I'm pretty sure somebody buying a brand new GTR with 20" rims is probably going to want to know that his car isn't actually allowed on WA roads. Seriously, the laws are: you can't have wheels any larger/smaller than 2 inches in diameter and then the same goes for rim widths. If the law changes, you'll probably hear it from some more reputable source than some rogue traffic cop who decides to make up some crap to give you a yellow. When I got pulled over for an RBT not long after I got my car, I had a chat to a Senior Constable who I asked a few questions about what was and wasn't illegal, all the questions I asked were basic, straightforward things that anybody on these forums could answer; and he didn't know the answer to any of them. He had no idea if my pod filter needed to be secured, covered or if I was even allowed to have one. Most traffic cops don't know all the rules and a lot of the time they'll just be using their own personal judgment to decide if a car should be given a yellow sticker. And spell illegal correctly.

Nice work on shot #2, the lighting is great!

Some of my favourite shots of the month. Skylines (SAUWA) Cruise AFAR Skidpan Day Lighting Experiments (Those light trails from the lights are real, rolled the car into the shot) Targa West All shots were taken with a 5D Mark II with a combination of 24-70 f2.8L, 300 f4L, 300 f2.8L. More photos at loudphotos.com

Yeah, was only trying the tape trick to see if it was the packs causing the problem, will order a full set as soon as I figure out that they're the problem. I'm going to borrow a single spare coilpack this week and swap them out one-by-one to see if it's just one failing.

Thanks for the reply, I think it is my coilpacks but I have more time to spare than I do money at the moment. I've still got plenty of car loan to pay off so I don't want to go ahead and spend a bunch of money before I need to. My harness visually seems to be in pretty good condition, doesn't look to worn or anything and all the plugs are definitely tight and on right. I've had the plugs/coilpacks/harness out 4 times in the last week and a half, so I've had plenty of chance to solve a loose connection. And the reliable nature of the problem leads me to believe the harness/plugs are fine, I can essentially makes the misfire come back/go away just by raising/lowering the boost. And it reliably happens at the exact same points in the rev range.

+1!! Haven't driven it myself, but went with a friend in his VR4 Galant (twin turbo v6 - like a fat evo) at a 'moderate' pace... and... well... yeah... big PLUS ONE

Thanks for the reply, unfortunately I don't have a spare. I've been looking around for just a single spare, but I know genuine Nissan items are very expensive here and I'd probably be paying ~$200AUD for a single coilpack and I'm not sure if running 1 spitfire in with 5 standard items is a good idea. Will ask around on the local WA forums though to see if anybody has a spare I can try. Also, on another note, as long as I don't force my car into the misfire scenario (WOT, 500rpm @ 11psi) i still get good fuel economy. Dunno if that helps rule out fuel system issues.

Ok, I know there's plenty of threads on this and I've spent a few days reading almost all of them, so here we go... The Story All started on the way back from a SAUWA country cruise the other week, after spending the whole day at highway+overtaking speeds (~3 hours of this) and we were heading home I went to overtake a car, so I dropped down to 3rd, foot down and started pulling out, then pop pop pop pop pop... Constant misfire over ~4,500/5,000, so I backed off, tried again and the same problem until around 6,000rpm where it goes back to normal. While limping the next ~100KM home the problem grew a little worse, to the point I was getting intermittent misfiring at idle when at the lights. Additionally I was getting intermittent misfires on slow acceleration and steady driving speeds. When I started the car the next morning the idle was fine but the misfire still happened every time I'd hit ~4,500rpm at wide open throttle (WOT). If I took it a little easier it'd make it through the problem range no problems. Modifications Full turbo-back exhaust Manual boost controller turned up to ~11psi Front Mount Intercooler Apexi SAFC Neo II - tuned to 190rwkw POD Filter Car gets good economy (around 9-12L/100km for highway stuff and 12-14L/100km daily driving) and has been rock solid since getting it 2 years ago. What I've tried so far Regapped original spark plugs from ~1.0mm down to 0.8mm - No Noticeable Effect Plugs were pretty dirty but not dead. Taped up the sides of the coilpacks - No Noticeable Effect Few scorch marks (darkest on cylinder 1) on the side, tidied them up and used good electrical tape as all the guides suggested. Replaced spark plugs with brand new NGK Copper Spark Plugs pre-gapped at 0.8mm - No Noticeable Effect Figured I could save myself some money and get the cheaper copper plugs to diagnose the problem, will replace with better ones in 5,000-10,000km. Additional electrical tape applied to other parts of the coil packs to try seal them better - No Noticeable Effect Just following other suggestions from old threads/guides. Turned boost down from ~11psi to ~8psi - 80% gotten rid of misfire though obviously not an ideal solution Checked for boost leaks, checked plugs/connections, AFM values seem to be correct - though it's hard to drive and monitor the SAFC screen at the same time. The Big Question What else can I try/check/test before spending $500-700 on new coilpacks? I have a multimeter (if that helps) so I can probably test a few more things. I'm still a little unsure if this could be caused by the cam/crank angle sensor or possibly an issue with my fuel pump / fuel pressure regulator. Essentially I don't want to spend all the money only to find out that it's not my coilpacks. I've read way too many threads of people buying new coilpacks only to find the problem was still there.

Hey Steve, any ETA on getting some R33 S2 JJR coilpacks back in stock?

It's really easy to tap a nipple into aftermarket intercooler piping, just get a small screw nipple from super cheap auto and then buy some metal epoxy. Drill a hole, tap the nipple and the epoxy the f**k out of it.

Thanks, will make more of an effort next time instead of running off and eating lunch elsewhere

We did a rather interesting speed for the next ~60km (after getting a little lost) and managed to catch up to the group a good 20km outside of Toodyay. Next cruise we'll try do some more structured/planned driving shots because everybody was too close together so we could only shoot every 3rd or so car.

Sorry if I missed some of the cars, I think there might have been 1 or 2 that I ran out of time to do at the first meet point, but I couldn't remember which... I'm sure Steve probably got some, I know he has a few decent driving shots to put up.

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Might be the case on the 32's but on the R33 red definitely means turbo and blue definitely means non-turbo. If you find an R33 that doesn't match that pattern, then the badges have been changed by the owner.

Staggered wheel sizes shouldn't be a problem. I have 8" on front and 9" on rear, made it over the pits without any issues.

Fine, damn you all, I got bored and did the photos tonight. Video will still be a little while off though.

Looked like fun guys, I popped down for half an hour and shot some pics and vids, I'll probably get a chance to put the pics up tomorrow, vid might take me a few days to do though.

Anybody got any idea when the racing starts, I'll pop down for 30 mins or so and try and get some video/photos in.

I fitted mine myself and had it tuned at Hyperdrive, tune was ok, a little rough here and there.

SAFC's are a standard item and can be used across a large number of cars. I Have a SAFCII Neo in my R33 Turbo, was very cheap and only costs around ~$150 to tune. It will only allow you to adjust AFR's, but in these low-power applications, it's more than good enough.

With a FMIC on you'll probably start running into rich & retard, highly recommend a retune after this mod.

After a tune you'll be looking at around 250rwhp. Though the addition of the fuel pump wouldn't have changed your power figure at all.And your friend should have ~250 engine HP, but closer to 200rwhp if the car is stock.

That's it, punish your parents by cutting of your own penis.... wait... what? That's seriously the best solution he could come up with?

Retro Betties -- pretty average Try FAB Burgers at Hillarys, pricey but they're pretty damn good.