Fujiwara

Chasing more power with my car. Have decided on everything except the turbo. Options are to hi-flow the turbo, or to get a new turbo that will be a DIRECT BOLT ON REPLACEMENT for the car. Chasing around 300rwkw. Do not want a massive turbo that will increase lag. Want a very responsive turbo...but one that doesn't drop off in boost near the top of the rev range. So...which turbo will be a direct bolt on and fit my requirements? It is for a engine with stock internals. And one more question....if i get a turbo with a external wastegate, how much extra am i looking to spend? I would like one to be internally gated if possible. Please recommend me some good turbos and rough price. Cheers

thanks for all the info guys. Most likely get TBE, PFC, 550cc injectors, Tomei/Nismo fuel pump, Z32 AFM. As for the turbo....Might get something that will be a direct bolt on with more potential than a hi-flow. Saves me spending alot more later. If you can help...please comment on http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=176342 Once again, thanks for all the help!!! Now time for me to spend spend spend!!!

I heard that afgter having the Greddy RS BOV on the car, it is impossible to go back to a stock BOV as you need to weld the adapter to the inlet pipe. Are there same issues with the Blitz?

nothing was broken. They didn't replace any parts. Just did a comp test and it was all good.

yeap. But they only have a top secret one. They tried to copy the Jun style...but no vent in the front. And plus...i don't know how good carmate quality is. Is it any good???

Yes please. For an R34. Do you have the radiator hoses as well for this GB? If so, both in Blue please. And how do i pay???

Thanks for the info nismoid. And 260rwkw is fine for me. FOR NOW. Don't want to be putting down too much power anyway without working abit on suspension and brakes. Might do some light work on braking first (pads/rotors) before the power upgrade. Don't think i need to do much more suspension work. Also could you advise what you meant by GCG? And you are advising that i won't need new fuel rails, and to get the Nismo injectors (550/555cc?) instead of the 800cc injectors? Why is that may i ask? And i won't be getting anything if i won't need them. Just with the head gasket i can pick up for cheap i think. So if i do, could you tell me what thickness i would need? But you're right...no point getting things just for show.

I have some questions for the experts and even for the not so expert people here. And before you flame me, yes i have searched but the only thread that is similar to mine is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=174833 I currently have a HKS POD, Blitz Boost Controller, Trust Oil Cooler, Trust Front mount intercooler. First question. How much power can the stock engine handle safely and reliably? I am hearing i can achieve figured of 280kw at the wheels reliably and safely. Is this true? Also, does the internals of the engine dictate how much psi/bar of boost i can run? I'm currently thinking of a Trust PE II Turbo Back exhaust + Power FC + catch can (should i get a baffled catch can?) The above will DEFINITELY be done within the coming weeks. :laughing-smiley-014: And i was planning to get a new turbo, but the workshop i was speaking to said that i should just hi-flow the turbo? Is this a good idea? Because that is going to cost me roughly $2300. Isn't it better just to get a new turbo? And will i need a external wastegate and manifold when i get a new turbo? Or can i get turbos which bolt on to the standard manifold? If you think i can get a new turbo and not bother with the hi-flowing of the turbo, could you recommend me turbos that can acheive this amount of power with minimal lag? I also don't want the turbo to die out top end...I know i'm asking for much I also realise that i may need a Z32 AFM when i get this done. Should i also fit a Tomei Head gasket while i am at this? What thickness do i need (there are two thicknesses i'm talking about 87mm or 87mm, and the 1.2mm - 1.5mm thickness) Will i also need new coils and/or sprockets? <--- i have no idea what these are and what they do. later on down the track, i'm planning to get 800cc injectors, fuel rail, bosch 044 fuel pump (unless it is too loud, in which case i'll go walbro or Nismo), better spark plugs and a fuel regulator. Is there a need for me to get a surge tank setup? How much extra would this cost if i go the surge tank route? Is what i am suggesting realistically achievable? Or will i need to work on the motor to achieve 280kw at the wheels? What is the max (safely and reliably) i should go before working on the engine? I presume if i do work on the engine it should be pistons, rings, cams with a port and polishing? (btw, what are poncams?) Anything i have left out? Sorry for being such a noob. Feel free to me if i have said anything stupid~ Cheers~

Anyone know where i can get good quality replicas of these bonnets in Australia?

Ok... E&M didn't reply to the 2 emails i have sent. I received read receipts for these though... Anyway, i took it to CRD. All cylinders are fine. Possible cause is carbon build up and the piston rings weren't sealing properly or something. Cyl 1 185psi Cyl 2 175psi Cyl 3 180psi Cyl 4 175psi Cyl 5 175psi Cyl 6 175psi So now i can start doing some work.

DAMN...i guess too late to join this group buy? It is for an R34 GTT.

They did a leak down test. I just read it again in the morning. I'll go home and re-read the details but they "said" that they did. And what do you mean by played with it? I didn't add any parts to the car or tune the engine. Just got a power run on the dyno and a comp test performed. And i aint jumping the gun. Just being cautious. And doesn't matter if it does sound harsh...i don't want to be treated like a bitch. I want the truth. I have a Frontmount IC. And each cylinder was only tested once. Except for cylinder 5. They tried it 3 times. I always have a whitish smoke in the rear. But this is when i start up in morns or even in afternoons for the first time. Will definitely get someone to follow me. If it is blowing smoke, what does this mean? Dodgy pistons/cylinder rings? Didn't know i could take it to other workshops...now i know Don't think i have the results of the leakdown test. I need to go home and check. And the car has statutory 3mths warranty + extended 2 yrs. What is the difference between shoot_6 and shoot_6F? And the intercooler is a front mount so that is why it has low temps?? And isn't Advan Performance and CRD a reputable workshop?

The offsets seem a bit too low. if it's for a GTT

ok.. Let's say it is running lean. How do i fix this? Can i fix it with PFC/injectors/fuel pump?

Graphs now attached. Can the gurus please guide me?

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What is the difference between the NISMO and normal for the R34 GTT? Couldn't find comparison pics.

Definitely bought a turbo. Has the turbo rush. Guys at Advan didn't say anything about being too high. They just said it's heaps healthy. Also, fastened the VIN and it is a turbo Can someone else comment on this? And can a head gasket cause just one cylinder to be down by 100psi? yeap...10yr old car. was performed when i had the prepurchase inspection. No issues. Pity they didn't perform a compression test..... Definitely sending an email today (better to track with email) How so? And how will i know IF my turbo is about to go kaboom? So 100psi down on one cylinder would make it impossible for me to get 200kw at the rears? The guys at Advan say that it COULD be a one off issue. They retried the same cylinder about 4 times though. They said once i start driving around, any "dust" in there could go away and the rings could seal properly IF it was that issue. Can anyone else comment? I have the dyno graphs here...excuse the crap quality...taken with my phone

Here is the WHOLE story. Purchased a Skyline R34 GTT from E&M Unique Motors 3 weeks ago *** Not flaming them so i don't see why i can't mention the dealership *** I had it inspected by Stateroads before i took delivery and i also went over the vehicle and had it for a test drive. 1st issue - Took it for a dyno run at CRD. Was pulling 110kw@tw. Was an issue with the boost controller not being set right so they fixed this and now it's running 200.5kw@tw on 12psi. 2nd issue - Clutch release bearing was stuffed. They took the car in and replaced the clutch and machined the flywheel free of charge. Although i had to pay for a hire car... 3rd issue - Went to Advan today and got the compression test performed. Cylinder 1 - 175 Cylinder 2 - 170 Cylinder 3 - 175 Cylinder 4 - 170 Cylinder 5 - 75 <--- WTF!!! Cylinder 6 - 170 The guys at Advan said that it could be something in there like dust etc...unlikely but it could. Also said that it could be the ring not sealing properly or the piston has worn out. Advised me to drive it off boost and to get it checked out again at E&M. Called E&M and advised them of the issue. The first thing they asked was "is it idling rough? Is it misfiring?" Advised them that it wasn't and they said "no need to bring it in". I insisted on taking it in and he told me to call next Monday to book it in. So was the guy trying to not do the test because he owes me new pistons or a new engine? Or is he right? ie. no misfiring and no rough idle = engine ok? POST EDITED

Forgot to ask this before. When i got by car dynoed it showed an AFR of between 12-13 Is this ok? I thought it was running a bit rich, but the workshop said that this is fine Excuse the quality...taken with phone

GIAS Sport with rails to suit R34 GTT please? Also, does the rail/seat have height and reach adjustment?

maybe leaking. Happened before to my HKS SSQV... tried everything. Found out that the BOV was f**ked.

this is beginning to gimme a headache so much info on GTR's yet not that much info on the rwd variants the standard R34 GTT come with 17x7.5 with a +35 offset i think... GAHHH~~~ mayb i'll get 18x8.5 fronts with a +30 offset and rears 18x9 with +30 offset..

phillb how the hell did you fit +20 offset on your car? Are R32's different offsets to R34?

quick question. What is Color: QMI ?