Cubes

The .6 will come on hard. Be sure to throw some good tyres at it and angle the front of the cradle down. The RB30det's now done 100,000km's so I'm itching to build up a high comp (9.5-10:1) GT35 or twin 2530's that runs on E85 and drop it in to a cheap GTS4.

Traction isn't so bad with the GT3076 .82 on the 3ltr as boost is made pretty much off idle so the power delivery is linear and relative to the throttle. It doesn't have the lag/doughy feel then bang on to boost sort of feel. More so like a factory turbo setup. + better tyres, better suspension setup = more grip = the ability to turn the wick up. As it is now I can get it to hook up fairly well if i want to or I can simply let it rip until I grab fourth. Its all in the right foot. Do you have the .6 or .8 rear on the ProS?

Don't be weak Lee. Cram 17-18psi in to it. I run a 1bar actuator on my Garrett spec HKS equiv (GT3076r .82 IW) with a bell mouth dump. It tails boost off to 17psi preventing it from making any more peak. An 18 psi actuator (which should allow 20-21psi) is coming, then I'll eventually get around to fitting it so that will 'should' sort my problems. When's the tune?

If you have owned the car for >3months you simply take the car to Sturt police station for a quick check and your off. Also... That Telstar sure looks like its loosing/playing catchup in your sig.

Adrian, Stress less about the tail shaft. All that is required is to cut the old RB20det yoke off the R32 rb20det tail shaft and weld the rb25det yoke on to it. Thge rb25det box sits something like 10mm back than the rb20det box. When you remove and clean up the old weld etc from the rb20det yoke thats the 10mm or so required. So stress less drop it off at the local Adelaide tail shaft services and simply have them swap the yokes + balance for $90. Quiz Shaun he will tell you the same. I've done it to mine and thats how it is with the factory 5speed R32 GTST's. The Ceffy's and auto R32 GTST's have slightly different mounting positions. So Oblivion your R32 is an Auto from factory.

FIX YOUR CAR THEN!

Rake is how much the front of the cradle is spaced down. I.e the pineapple traction setting. Mine is spaced down as much as the amount of thread allows. So ~12mm. The arse end now noticeably sits down and gets weight over the rear. Before the cradle rake it would spin and dance around on the spot now it feels like it spins and shoots off down the road. It won't just spin and not increase road speed. It will now spin a bit but with road speed not far behind. Can be a little dangerous if the wheel alignment is not setup right (i.e not running any toe in on the rear) and you over correct as it quickly wants to shoot you off the road. Running a little toe in and its fairly fool proof. It tends to slightly sit off to the left or right and just sit there swaying slightly. Without toe in its all over the place. :S Mash the throttle in third at 60km/h. By 80km/h its swaying the rear ever so gently, providing I don't ease off it and keep it mashed it will continue to sway until I grab fourth at ~150km/h. Rolling on the throttle weight gets over the rears and it will generally hook up well. Second gear yeah just spins so I almost never really mash it. If I want to give it a little I'll usually bring second up so it just spins ~50-60km/h and then grab third where it will light up and then its hold on. One of the broken rb20det gearbox's I had to drive home in fourth. Traffic light starts, driving up to the shed/pit. That clutch didn't last too long after that. The R1R's are not quite a semi but damn close. Tread wear of 140 vs the R888 of 100. I still run 225/50 16's. Don't knock it until you see how well it hooks up. I've ran 245 and 265 in 18's with a low profile tyre and they just didn't hook up in a straight line. Noticeable improvement around corners though. The R1R's in 225/50 16's are $230 each so not so bad.

Vinnie, The nipple inline with the bolt connects to the pressure source. The nipple 90degree's to the bolt connects to the actuator.

lol. @ Damo. F = FRIDAY. S = SICK D = DAY O = OFF So.. FSDO and yours?

Struggling to work that one out. :S

SDO < FSDO of which = LW FTW. --- Unfortunately in a turbo app even the best of oils are not much good for more than 7000km's IMO. That is unless you don't mind a little lifter tick on cold start. Change at 5000km's.

Huddy, Sounds similar to mine. I max'd the GTR injectors as 260rwkw approached. A 1 point afr drop at idle has now seen the injectors crack 300rwkw at 90% duty.

Start on water as you do at the drags. Sitting on the limiter good clutch and drop it. 300rwkw car no doubt would be able too. Thing is would you want to do that to your car? I know I couldn't lol.

The noise that dude makes at the end is pretty awesome. lol

Sounds frustrating/fun. Get some 16's on it with a MT ET street that will fix your problems. or for a reasonable price some of those Toyo R1R's in a 17" 255-265 with some decent sidewall. Will still suck in the wet though lol.

lol well thats not the problem then lol. The GT35's are very progressive on the 3ltrs and provide even better throttle control than my GT30. So yours lags a tad then comes on like a sledge hammer? With regards to suspension setup. Pushing in 12mm of cradle rake make a massive difference.

Need a bigger turbo. I find the GT30 to be really tractable. Part throttle the boost moves up with more throttle i give it. Its easy to have it just hanging on the limit so to speak. If I don't feel like playing with the throttle - 80km/h in fourth still pulls plenty hard and will start to break traction at around 110km/h with half throttle in the wet

Maybe its here? - lol

The old VLT's... 7000rpm is 'reliable' for 700hp with stock rods.

Perfectly normal for a rebuilt head. Mine as well as many others have done the same thing. You'll have to take it for a spin that will pump the lifters back up and all will be sweet. Check for leaks/oil pressure etc and take it for a spin. Remember no cruise, no deceleration in gear - pop her in neutral and give it plenty of throttle between 2-4k.

Cronic... lol @ the ns.com thread op. His forum name suits him well. A dumhead he is. Again. Its primarily there for emissions and driveability. Not for performance which is exactly what I have found in my own fiddlings. As for some one reputable that has a shit load of experience... Simon from Nizpro explains the BOV's use. http://www.nizpro.com.au/about.html http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1457/article.html There's a market out there for replacement 'high performance' bov's as people believe it 'stalls and breaks' the turbo. Don't believe those that sell and market BOV's.

I've ran mine since I can remember with a blocked off BOV. With the ceramic turbo running 1bar I covered around 100,000km's on the rb20det, then pulled it out for the rb30det. Still in good nick. I went a VG30 which was good for another 50,000km's and was still fine when I pulled that off, the Garrett gt30 I now run still doesn't use a BOV. The GT30r has covered around 40,000km's now. Damn time flies. :S The bov is there for emission reasons. Without a bov look what it does to your afr's on and afm voltage as you come off the throttle which causes stalling, back fires and some times flamage. Another issues is the strain it puts on your joiners/clamps. I had to replace some with t-bolts. The reason I went no bov is the stocker was for the part throttle drivability. No bov you grab the next gear and boost is just there. Without a bov it felt laggier on gear changes as I presume it takes longer to fill the FMIC and piping than it does to regain the 'slight' speed the compressor may loose due to pushing against a pressure source. Shaun/Boostworx runs track cars with no bov, no issues related to no bov. I know of multiple high powered RB30et's without issues running no bov.

ebay my friend. some jecs pump - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/JECS-BOSCH-FUEL-PUM...1QQcmdZViewItem and then a heap of 044's for around $200 delivered. Theres also the Walbro which is a damn good pump for up to ~250-260rwkw.

The cover all mods is bullshiet.. Note it states all mods that are 'legal' so if you haven't gone to the expense of 'engineering' that $30 boost controller, pfc or adjustable coil overs etc then they 'can' void your insurance. Especially worrying if you collect some sort of exotic Ferrari or something. :S

GTR Pump will fit BUT for the cost of an old S/H pump why not buy a new 040 or 044 and fit that intank. I fitted my 044 intank, cost $20 for the lower machined nipple a hose clamp, some suitable rubber and a little efi hose.