Cubes

There's no bones about it drift is fun, track work is fun. Drift is harder on the car than track though. In that case the 2ltr will be fine. Drift, you want a motor that is able to hold power well when over reving, the rb20 is perfect for that. Do be sure to throw a crank collar in it though, N1 water pump to prevent cavitation at high drifto rpms and suitable oil pump with suitable pressure to hold the motor together at 8000rpm. I would probably still look at the stroker as 250rwkw is 4500rpm pin in the seat territory.

thanks.. Now I need another flywheel.. You selling yours? lol

Takes a while to get to lobethal and its dark by 8-8:30 anyway.

The skylines standard suspension are coil overs.

Well I'll be down at Anzac Highway KFC at say 6:30, leave at 7 to head up to Lobethal Lights. Those that wish to go I'll see you there. Is there concern of having the meeting place and time public on the forums? If so its easy enough to meet up some where else via PM. Probably a good idea anyway.

I agree. Through my teens back in the mid to late 90's the gangs were.... Asians and lebo's.. I knew a few of them and the shit they would get up to was rather appalling. Random bashings, thefts, organized car thefts etc. The random bashings.. yes Morphette vale 'crews' would do the same but not organized car thefts etc.. The morphette vale crew were just a bunch kids with little money. I'm unsure how it is today but walking down Rundle Mall back then you would see the gangs of asians, filo's and the odd goup of aboriginals loitering. There wasn't an 'aussy' gang at that time. Its not racist just the truth for that time. Do not take the above as racist as I am most definitely not, just telling you how I have perceived things back when I was out and about more than I am now.

Or better still scout around the little wreckers for a cheap running rb30 bottom end. They can be picked up for ~$150. Mine was running but I chose to rebuild it even though compression was top notch. Its what Sky30 did, ran 240rwkw for ~20k and a further 20k making slightly over 300rwkw before he decided 4wd traction was required.

I've always been very on and off with the clutch, never riding it. It seems there's a common trend, the clutch doest last long when paired with the std flywheel. A nice molly or extreme flywheel and they last 2 x the distance.

If the climate doesn't change Sydney will be in a hell of a lot of trouble, Sydney will be able to supply drinking water to its population. The government is hoping like all hell its just a 'cycle'. Yes a cycle, but a cycle that is getting longer and longer that is resulting in less and less drinking water. So might not have to worry about it.

Some times its good to do the bolt on stuff while you have the cash to throw around.. Then when the motor needs to be rebuilt you are 'forced' to do it.. Well it works well when there's a better half in your life that complains about how much money is spent on the car. Its easier to justify that house redraw or loan to 'fix' a broken motor than it is to buy bolt on parts.

Tuning is the key to longevity. Drop the comp via a headgasket and providing the tune is safe there is no reason for it to pop. If the motor simply gets tired and has a lot of blowby then yes its lived a good life. If it breaks a piston, look at the tuner or yourself for doing something silly with it. Its as simple as that. Its not a perfect world so its up to yourself to ensure the tune is suitable for the conditions. Have it run up on the dyno on a hot and icy cold day. Without labour (motor in and out) mine essentially cost 3.8k just for the bottom end bits inc. gaskets, forged pistons & std rods. Rebuild the head, thats another 500 + VRS kit $280 + labour of the motor in and out and it will be up close to 6k if not slightly over by the time you throw fluids in to the motor/gearbox etc. And thats not including the added expense of GTR Rods and crank collar. R31Nismoid.. 7k is on the conservative side.

By running a richer mixture your essentially shifting the peak combustion pressure to a later crank degree. Resulting in less chance of detonation and lower combustion temperatures. The same safety can be achieved with greater efficiency by running less ignition timing. Richer mixtures at higher power levels are generally used to ensure each cylinder runs a safe afr due to poor plenum distribution and unequal cylinder reversion caused by poor unequal exh. manifolds. Thats my view anyway.

How often are you up it on the street... I'm of the opinion that higher boost for the street is safer than higher boost at the drags/track. + Life begins at 20 pounds of BOOST!

Grab the number off Bl4ck32 as his and my motors are identical and were built by the same bloke at the same time. I don't have his number on hand. He now has gone in to another field of work but still builds motors. Andrew is his name.. Top bloke. Please don't mess him around as it will reflect badly on us. If you want to make the power have the head worked on to improve its ability to flow, that includes a set of reasonable cams. HKS for that nice lump sound, Tomei for a smooth idle.

No need.. The engines are tough. Slap a thicker headgasket on to it, while its off drop a set of 260dur cams and springs in to it, may as well as you do have 10k to 'blow' Springs are iffy.. .Some are fine with 20+psi others begin floating at 20psi.. So its a small outlay while the heads off.. Hell while its off you may as well give the head a tidy up, light port/polish valve deshroud. While thats being done you'll be waiting for your: Injectors, PFC, exhaust, fmic, pod and box to land at your door step. Drop a gt30r .82 internal gate on to it and dial in 20 odd psi. Possibly have the stock exh. manifold extrude honed while your there. Sly33 has just done this and picked up quite a bit of flow through the manifold, it shall be interesting to see how the increased flow is reflected in the 'real world'. Note I've concentrated on getting air in and out of the motor, a motor is an airpump, make it more efficient at pumping air and it will make more power easier and more reliably. With a good tune it will hold together (well they do here in Adelaide) with a bad tune it will break a piston or 6.

Now thats what I'm talkin about............ Yep I'd sell it.

Yes I sure am... Waiting for xmas to be over then I can sink some $$ in to bits required. Hows the lunge off the mark feel with the stally? Should be on boost as its launching.

Let us know how chewed the molly flywheel is and if its machineable.

R&D is research, the time the engine builder spends researching, measuring and playing.. i.e selecting pistons etc. Some engine builders charge R&D some don't. The bloke who built Darrens and my own said "I'm not going to charge R&D as if I don't know something thats not your fault its mine, + R&D is over rated" $5000... is that you supplying the motor or is it the engine builder removing and installing the motor? A good bottom end rebuild should cost less than 3k with hypereutectic pistons installed. We run King HP bearings, excellent bearings and do have it over acl's. Don't use ACL hypereutectic pistons, they are apparently not crash hot. I'm not up with it when it comes to the rb23/25 as my view is its simply not worth it as the rb20 head really is asthmatic where it requires LOTS of boost. I found the 25 head made the same power as the 20 using ~6-7psi less boost. 6-7psi less boost is considerable. A good example of this is 88silouets rb25 head running a td06-20g. He makes ~240rwkw with 10psi. Roy runs a rb20 head with the same turbo yet requires 20 something psi to make ~250rwkw. It shall be interesting to see how a set of 260dur cams Troy is about to install affects the boost required. Boost threshold... 88sil's makes all its boost by 2200rpm and pulls hard to its 7200rpm rev cut. Roy's makes all its boost around 4200rpm starts pulling hard at around 2400rpm and pulls well it just over 7000rpm but can be stretched out to 8000rpm or so in the lower gears. There really is no replacement for displacement. Engine size doesn't affect the final power just the average power. The head is what determines the final power made.

Excellent.

The Antec PSU recap... I have 8 suitable Samxon caps coming from the US. $19.10 AUD Delivered. Bargain. It was impossible to source the caps I required here in AUS let alone caps of decent quality.

I toyed with the idea of using an old car heater core (head down to U-steal it wreckers and pick one up cheap). lol at the car rad idea.. Massive. Keep the shroud attach an old solid radiator fan to an old washing machine motor and your set.

SAZilla, What vid card and hows it clock with water vs std air? I've never bothered with water cooling but always wanted to have a play one day.. My overclocking adventures in the last ~12yrs have never seen a failure, I put this down to never using water, even when using a decent hsf heat becomes an issue before volts so your never really able to run enough volts to kill a chip.

Hrmm.. Maybe thursday night then? Hows every one for thursday?

hrmm ok.. Just as long as I don't have to wait for you to catch up all the time.