Cubes

Here's a post I dug up quickly on the datalogit forums. lol more reading in the same thread came across this.. maybe he has other issues. and some one replied with..

lol Jazza.. There you go with your question marks again. haha The datalogit forums suggest otherwise. A few of the blokes on there with higher powered 500awkw+ GTR's have had ignition break down issues with the splitfires. They drop the genuine coils back in and the break down disappears. However, it was suggested the cause of the ignition issue was the splitfires requiring a different ign dwell vs rpm time. Some of them were able to work around it, others just went with genuine. I believe something similar was also mentioned on the UK Skyline forum.

You had a question mark after the im sure new ones would have been ok. -------- Better fuel economy.. Mine manages around 10.6-11L/100km's with a 0.8mm gapped copper ngk. Give it constant stick and this rises to ~13-13.5l/100.

Thats because your old coils were nackered.

Whats important is the air the fan is sucking is sucked over the whole area of the radiator, not just a select little area near the fan. You will have to rig up a shroud of sorts. Grab a little sheet metal and bend it up using a few pieces of wood/metal what ever you can get your hands on. Then cut a hole to suit the size of the fan and you have a bodgy home made shroud. I ran 2 x 12" thermo's directly on the radiator that I remember flowed on paper more than a single 16". It was fine in normal temps but in heavy traffic with the a/c on it sent the needle to the H. Dropped the std fan and shroud back on and its been as good as gold since.

Block the bov off. Much better next gear boost response as the turbo doesn't have to fill the ic and ic piping. Made mine run a little crappy when doodling around. So... I'm going auto as I'm bored of the manual for now.

RB30 in my opinion is only really worth it if you want to start pushing over 250rwkw. If your happy with changing up at ~6500rpm then there's no need for a new plenum on the 3ltrs. If you want it to rev hard 8k odd then they need a plenum. The rb20 and rb25 exhaust manifolds are the same. Same bolt up, they are identical. So not as expensive as you have led yourself to believe. A cheap rb30 refresh is worth ~1800. Drop on the r32 rb25 head for max $900 odd. Thats a fresh motor for under 3k. Bolt on all the old rb20 bits, use the r32 rb25de inlet manifold, bolt on the rb20 plenum and off you go.

If your coils are fine.. There will be no difference. The split fires.. You will still have to drop your gap as you have to with a set of good nissan coils.

Yep we did get it out, fix the spigot then back in again in only an hour or two.

Torque overpowers street tyres. Run a small turbo with lots of boost, massive mid range and traction is a big issue. Run a larger turbo such as the GT35r and traction is just that bit more controllable. A set semi's and mechanical diffs will go a long way. *subscribes*

My thoughts also. When I was fiddling around making my own bleeders a few years back I came across this issue, but boost didn't come on with a jolt it was a smooth slow spooling laggy gutless feel. IF the bov is venting to atmosphere you can experience a 'lag' of sorts between gear changes that feels like a jolt as the motor floods. The reason for this is between gear changes the ecu has metered an amount of air that has entered the ic and its piping, when shutting the throttle partially for a gear change the bov opens and dumps this air. So the mixture is going to be pig rich. There's a couple of ways around this... Recirc bov or no bov at all. For almost none of that slight 'lag' when you jump back on the throttle after a slow/mediocre speed gear change run no bov as the turbo doesn't have to do any work to 're pressurise' the ic and its piping. You get back on the throttle and the turbo torque is just simply there. The total opposite of what many believe. The bov in fact increases slow/mediocre gear change lag. A fast slapping change.. well bov or no bov there's no real difference. In your case... I would start by blocking the bov off. See if it makes a difference. If there's no difference you know the issue is some where else.

Thats the way SAZilla... Don't jump in to buying something if it doesn't 'feel right' Even though its so hard not too.

I need a decent diff.. Second gear out of any corner is just instant wheel spin. Third isn't too bad but still tends to get a little hairy and spin up as it approaches 3.5-4k. On that note what's the one you have laying around like Matt? Still fairly tight how many km's? What would u want for it? Bl4ck32 is using mine to get through regency so it may be a good time to throw another in.

Nar it wasn't a scam as such more so organized crime. :S The blokes were in WA.

Series 1 RB25 afm is the same as an R32 Rb20DET afm. The series 2 rb25 afm's from memory have a pink sticker and are 3 wire not the r32/r33 s1 4 wire.

Jazza, There's a few different measurements it needs to pass not to be considered too low. 1. The R32 GTST must be no lower than 360mm all round. 2. The lowest part of the car must have 100mm ground clearance. 3. Some measurement of the headlight to ground height. Number 3 is ignored as some factory cars are released with a headlight level that is too low. Some honda's from memory. So 1 & 2 are the ones to look out for. Just to note... My stock suspensioned R32 GTST measures ~365mm all around. So the 360mm measurement means you cannot run lowered suspension. I'm assuming they have a slightly lower height to allow for some suspension sag, possible differences in manufacturing and or a full tank of juice.

I would have been concerned over how genuine the money really was. As I'm sure deep down you were. Some years ago I saw a counterfeit $50 notes that was made at home and bugger me it looked perfect right down to the little window, feel everything. There's no way I was able to pick it. They did get caught in the end but managed to get off due to sloppy police work.

lol... I guess yours then. lmao

lol... @ Circle work.. I drive like grandma.

Yerp.

The 25t box would be ok but one needs to find a factory gearbox crossmember and mount that bolts up to the rb25 box + R32 combo. Unsure if a GTR/GTS4 cross member will bolt up. Some have said the Auto crossmember bolts up. Then there's the single piece tail shaft.

Can always swap the diff out with mine Darren? Shaun still got your stock ecu? Defected Down south by any chance?

It was only partial throttle.. Thats all the boost it needed to lug another car behind on a tow rope.

Scooby, All rods have the squirter's on them to squirt oil on the thrust side of the bore. --- Towed (tow rope :S) a VN Dungadoor today as it broke down on me when getting my pedal box welded up yesterday.. Towed it unbelievably well. Never needed boost on the flats and up Flagstaff Hill which is a big arsed steep hill it only needed ~3-4psi in fourth gear at 60km/h ~1900rpm. Was quite surprised at how much torque it really has when you go to tow something with it. The old RB20DET wasn't able to cruise at 60km/h in fourth gear up flagstaff Hill when not towing anything. Turbo's + Hills + towing = am I towing something??

After fitting the fixed pedal box its definitely a tighter. There's no less pedal slack at the top of the pedal and so far touch wood no more crunching in fourth as the clutch now disengages correctly. Mine still has a little flex in it due to the 1tonne clutch, I might pull it out again and weld a piece of metal from the top of the bracket on its open end to the bottom plate on both sides. May give a little better more direct clutch feel.