Cubes

*subscribes* Not only the GTR but also the GTS4. Sounds like an interesting prospect. Does the GTR/GTS4 gearbox mount bolt up to the rb25 box in the r32? A bit tidier and pit friendly than a custom mount.

Awesome.. I think I will go another but throw on a molly flywheel. Slightly less bite may be a good thing for the street. I find taking off slowly or reversing the rear wheels more often than note chirp as the clutch has 3 quick hard grabs. What pressure plate did you go? I'm considering the 800kg as the 1050kg gives me the shiets in traffic. All though I've got used to it.. My left leg looks bigger than my right.

lol that would make me cry and ball up in to a corner. Then again so would the power yours is putting out.

Exactly what Tim told me also. He said the ceramic clutches wear a deep groove in to the std flywheels and cause premature failure. I picked my clutch up without exchange for $600. Bargain. Its a pitty they go for a couple hundred more and Tim no longer owns horsepowerinabox. I'm sure he's enjoying himself on his new endeavours. A good flywheel with a ceramic clutch really is a must.

I might (chances are) drop a cheap auto in it for a little, just for something different. AM-Performance... Grab a decent flywheel, the stock 'soft' flywheels + ceramic button clutches don't play all that nice together.

Down South.

The head flow difference is marginal. Its the vvt that is worth while. The manifolds look the same but they are not as the r32 rb25de head has ~10mm over all wider ports, so all though they look the same on the outside the inside is different. Manifolds r33 -> r32 are not interchangeable.

Well it may.. I'm not 100%.. Its what I've been told by a mate who was originally going to do the work on my car but then decided to get out of the mechanics trade. He said if it stops being as cold due the lack of gas then there's a leak that needs to be fixed. orings, hoses etc.

Unless there's a leak you don't usually need re gassing, just the usual 3yr receiver dryer service that in turn requires a re-gas. I've had mine re-gassed, it lasted through summer and following year with a visible leak. All depends how bad the leak is as to how long it lasts.

The r32's are geared noticeably shorter. Well It was noticeable to myself. Diff ratio's.. As You said R33's 4.11's... R32 4.36. All in all.. The R33 is a better bet. Its fairly cheap to whack a jap exhaust on, cheap fmic and powerfc. The R32's then don't stand a chance. Driving experience.. I'd still have to say the R32's do feel zippier and more neutral punching them through the corners. Looks.. R33. R32's are beginning to look a touch old. Just a touch.. lol I am talking about the GTST. 32 GTR's in my eye's still have that tough jap muscle car look. During compliance the 32's have to have side intrusion bars fitted. I know mines got them, great big dirty bar of metal that fills almost the complete side of the door. Ahhh we all love the cars we drive.. I do wish I had bought a 33 to start off with but at that time they were 30k and I wasn't willing to spend that much. My little old 32 was looked and felt bran spanking new. Not a mark any where on the interior. Not sure what I'll go next, we do need a 7 seater of some sort so chances are I'll stick with a cheaper work run about. I've got my eye on a cheap R32 GTS4 auto, rb30, rb26 head a pair of 2530's or gtss's. Obviously the car would be setup for brisk off idle acceleration, I'm not interested in high speed to be honest.

The T7200 should pull a little quicker as it has a 4mb L2 vs the E6400's 2mb. However, its the complete package, mem speed etc, often where laptops lack. General windows speed... Laptops run slow hard drives, slow ram etc so I would expect it to feel slower.

Nope not sorted yet... Its on the back burner for the moment due to priorities. My leak is the hose that runs from the compressor to the condensor. Its the only big fat hose there is, put the a/c on and I can see moisture bubbling slowly out the top of the insulation. Bit of a bugger. Nissan want $330 or something for a new hose, ragazza or whom ever they are said they can repair it for $100 or so.

I've found Ragazza's (spelling) South Road St Mary's is well priced. He used to own a line himself so he's an 'enthusiast' so to speak. No point taking the car to someone who dislikes the cars and has no idea where to get parts from. I've had quite a few places tell me... I get the parts and they will do the job otherwise they won't touch it as it will cost to much for me to pay them to ring around. Load of crap really. I received a few quotes around the 600-700mark, Ragazza's was the cheapest being $400. My A/C has issues though, a small leak. Chances are if yours is beginning to be not so cold yours too has a small leak some where.

Autospeed are knobby's anyway. They've said a few silly/strange things in the past where I've thought WTF, do you blokes have any idea?

Just ran SuperPi on the oldies E6400 Core Duo 2 DDR2 667 setup. Without any tweaking out of the box it ran a solid 26seconds. Thats using 1 core. I think SuperPi clearly favours the Core Duo 2's.

Not up and rolling in gear acceleration. No driver skill there. ---- One HUGE + for the R33 is the motor has so much more potential to make big power easily. The gearbox is tough and won't break as the rb20 will.

For mild mods the R32 will own the 33 every time. Throw an fmic, exhaust and 1bar in to the R32 and it is a pretty damn quick car, with a clean launch low to flat 5secs to 100km/h. The R33 with an fmic and exhaust can only take 10-11psi before R&R sets in, all though they make more power they tend not to go as hard or as 'fun'. I put this down to the added weight and longer (higher) diff ratio of the R33. The R32's gearing is a little shorter, car weighs less and the motor rev's harder. A mate of mine Maxx used to own an R33 with the above mods, I had a drove and my R32 did feel quicker and more fun out of corners, he also said the same. The added weight and higher diff ratio are all against the r33 compared to the r32. BUT.. Throw a PFC or safc on to the R33 and its all over for the R32 and in my opinion, bigger motor time as the 2ltr really doesn't cut it on the street with a larger turbo, it may show the peak power numbers but the average power just isn't there.

Well no matter what fuel (non ethanol based) I use it always returns the same economy... Be it regular unleaded (dialing out 7degree's at wot otherwise it pings) caltex, bp ultimate, mobile etc... They all pretty much feel the same. Some times the car feels as if its a little down on power then I realise its probably because i've been stuck up it a lot more than usual and have got used to its pick up. Drive it sedately for a couple of days, give it a hit in second and it feels quick again.

Wish it were the same here. BP98 charges locally to myself 11-12c more than ulp where as vpower is still 10c more. Generally mobil98 is cheaper than bp98 and then shell down this way.

I'd use it.. just have it tuned to 95 or throw it on the dyno on a warm day to ensure its not detonating.

Caltex don't have 98ron do they? Just the usual Vortex 95ron crap. I tend to steer clear of 95 ron as its too 'on the edge' for even a stock rb20det. Stock being stock exhaust, boost, ic, airbox. Years back on a cool day mine wouldn't take any ign (via the crude cas advance method), not 1 degree more as it would ping on a 25degree day. Madaz, its definitely worth the extra $2 per tank to drop the 98ron stuff in. Especially during summer.

Not sure if its the complete opposite. Throttle response was up with no bov (i.e partially on the throttle through a corner then nailing it) however it did have stalling issues and often backfiring on down changes or coming to a stop. The bastard always would stall driving in to my driveway. Nothing I did to the pfc prevented it stalling or having the jerkyness drivability issue at low rpm when making some boost. No bov... It did feel nice when I selected the next gear on 'full boost' partial throttle with a slow gear change as I didn't have to wait for the turbo to spool, boost was just there instantly. But.... I don't drive like that 90% of the time. Probably why I get 10.5-11l/100km's. lol at chirping... I can chirp fourth if I try.. lol not that its too good for the box. Chirping has everything to do with the clutch and how one shifts or should I say slaps.

WHAT??? I DIDN'T QUITE HEAR YOU!!!!

Generally when its the sender some days the oil pressure will be perfectly normal then another day it will read near zero or just low generally. I've seen mine sit perfectly on zero, then just as I looked down it had a spazo and jumped quickly to 5 (~3000rpm) and was then perfect for the next week until it had another small spazo and began reading low again, then as usual it goes back to normal soon after. If its constantly reading low I would be concerned and definitely get it checked. If its 'looks' like a stuffed guage get it checked anyway. Or buy your self a $100 oil pressure gauge and know your self for sure.

lol more arse than class. I stood up started to run and bang dead.