Cubes

12psi will be fine providing its not leaning out... The cars are getting old, either drop a new aftermarket fuel pump in it or throw it on the dyno every so often for a check up.

Very nice. *subscribed*

3200rpm is pretty damn good, I'd assume that comprises of a nice exh. manifold, cams & a bit of dyno time focusing on spool. For a general RB25/30 running mild cams, stock exhaust manfiold, stock plenum they tend to be up around a touch over 3.5k AM-PERFORMANCES GTS4 Rb25/30 running stock cams .82 gt35r also appears to be up around 3.5k. Its definitely not under. BUT you can feel the .82 working from 2k. mr_rbmans 1.06 on the stock exh. manifold doesn't get going until 4k, under that there is some power but it doesn't feel like the .82 where you accelerate and it simply boosts. But once more boost is dialed with a decent ebc I think it will feel quite good and with a nice exh. manifold that allows the 3ltr to rev it will be a very nice package. It feels as if it needs longer gears to help place some load on the motor through first and second so gets some decent boost in to it in the first 2 gears. Thats going from the experience of driving a vlt and how that felt with its longer gearing. Stock exh manifold = shit once you start looking at 300rwkw, which I suppose brings us to the conclusion.. Up to 300rwkw stock plenum and exh. manifold... If you want over that start looking at cams, exh and inlet manifold/plenums. But thats only my opinion.

Obviously loaded up in fourth.. You'll find in second gear pulling out of a corner it will pull well (snap in if you like) from 4k somewhere verses the stock rb20det turbo from 3-3.5k ish depending on boost run. The more boost the later they feel as if they snap in hard.

yer most likely. Ahh well... just one of those things. Good luck... Avoid those pump shops, they don't give two hoots about your car, they just want it in and out. Head to a restorer or some where special.

If glue had been used it will rip a chunk out of the gyprock.. Unless he didn't use the correct glue.

Which is roughly what I too was told by regency. There's no real drama, but the problem is getting the emmissions test, it must also be run on the std ecu, which it does and can... Sure the stock ecu fuel cuts on boost but they don't test on boost so there's no problem there.

I get a slight pop while reving through gears at WOT. Last 2 days its occured. My coils are gone, well close too.

No idea... Maybe you got used to it and now it feels slow again.

Depends if the origional coils were nackered or not. If so then yes the spitfires are better. basically.. If your cars running fine, 12psi or over and running 0.8mm gap, throwing a set of spitfires in isn't going to allow you to run a bigger gap. The spitfire coils are nothing more than stock coils painted blue, they don't offer better performance or anything just a new coil that isn't arcing out on its bracket.

Difference in the wideband calibration..

You'll find even new coils won't make any difference to a good set of coils that are not arcing out. When I say boost I do mean more than standard. RB20's get away with running a little bigger gap for the boost run.

Hence will read more air at 5.1v. So you can tune to a higher power level before maxing out the airflow meter.

I'd think the pfc is more than capable.. They really are an awesome no frills ecu powerful ecu. Mad082, check out the link posted, more likely with maf, apparently.

1.1mm is no good... He will need 0.8mm. Every body who runs boost needs 0.8mm

No glue.... Chances are he was a tight arse and used nails.. hence the nail comment. if he won't spend on glue what are the chances of him spending on the more expensive screws and screw gun. Yer its a little hard to see via a pic if there is or isn't nails/screws in the middle... The fault here all comes down to the lack of glue. As stated soaked up a little water, because there was no glue it simply pulled through.

I like the apexi, coz they look nice. There's a few others that are also good, ??pipercross?? comes to mind for some reason, SK could clear this up as he has mentioned them in the past. In some dirt hoover test the apexi came out on top for filtration.

Not sure.. I found the standards at 0.8mm would feel a tad flat in the top end vs the v-powers at 0.8mm. I'm not sure if it was this thread but I remember some one mentioned they had to gap the standards slightly smaller than the v-powers to prevent break down. If you have BCPR7ES then they are already at 0.8mm. If you have BCPR7ES-11 then they are 1.1mm. For 10-12psi you most definitely want 0.8mm.

Double check sparky's. Its fairly easy to accidently crack the porcelain when torquing them up. When my coil packs die I'm not going to waste time fiddling with second hand items, straight to nengun and a 3 week wait for me. To me... it sounds as if spark is jumping to the point of less resistance, in other words look at your coil packs and or spark plugs.

Here here... Sounds like a plan.. Slightly newer whale, better gearbox and motor to start off with without rego hassles. The only downside you lack the little R32 hard edge race car feel. All depends what you want out of your car and what you want to use it for.

Yes.. the Z32 is the same size as the std afm. It simply has a different airflow vs voltage output calibration.

I say bullcrap, showed my old man who's a builder and works in commercial. First thing he said... Where's the glue? You can't hold up gyprock with just gyprock nails. YOU NEED GLUE!! Wouldn't have happened if glue was also used.

Have a look over at NGK's web site and check out their part number break down. The BKR7E plug without a dash something are pregapped at 0.8mm. 0.8mm will be fine. Throw a -11 on the end and they are 1.1mm. Also the S on the end will indicate they are a std non v-power plug. EDIT: They are around $4-$4.50 each.

Go the BKR7E. They are the v-power plug which is better than the std (S) plug.

More coil packs, ignitor, cracked spark plug porcelain.