Cubes

I find I always have to slightly tweak my tune after its been tuned on the dyno. As stated above, its impossible to cover all conditions.

Really depends on what your doing.. In my example a remap wasn't worth while, in the long run it would have cost me considerably more. So far mines been tuned 3 times, the price received to remap the ecu was $600 for a complete remap, they wouldn't do just a full throttle type remap to get it drivable as I required, no point spending big $$ on a time consuming complete tune when a z32 was soon to be dropped in, then injectors, then a slightly larger turbo and now soon to be considerably larger turbo. In this aspect the pfc definitely has it over the remap. IF my pfc was stuffed I did briefly think about grabbing a stock ecu and having that dude on here do a chip for $150 odd, the problem here is I would miss my hand controller too much. The PFC is a good thing, I used to have a slight idle issue on the stock ecu, suprisingly my idle is now perfect. So in short, if you wish to leave your car the way it is, no furthur mods go the remap, if not definitely look at the pfc.

Yes the R33 PFC was all lined up ready to go should I have been out of luck. Others have had the r33 pfc running their r32 and by looking at the pin outs I am 100% certian the R33 pfc is the only way to go if you feel comfortable with a couple of little modifications. If you decide to go the RB26 pfc in order to utilize the air inlet temp sensor I don't believe its as simply as splitting a single afm's voltage output and feed the two in to the pfc; 2v worth of air through a single afm is less air than 2v worth of air through 2 afm's. I would think a rework of the airflow curve would be in order to get it to run nice, basically it won't just run but tuning if you have access to a datalogit won't be a problem. I had considered the rb26 pfc route but there are couple of differences with regards to fuel pump volt feed and obviously the afm, I didn't want to push my luck. Paul.. The R32 PFC's don't have AIT under the sensor screen, its blanked out like yours.

Reverse polarity... How would this affect what you are stating above.. I must admit when I asked how were the mosfets he did say 'suprisingly fine'.

It is damn rewarding doing a little research and conversion your self, or at least know exactly what is going on, gives a nice fuzzy feeling in side. lol.

Yes everything is still there.

Its wise to grab the wolf 3d v4plus as the regular version only has 4 coil drivers, resulting in overheated coils. I believe Steve from SST has informed wolf of this problem. Another downside is the batch injection vs the powerfc's sequential. Sequential injection is supposed to offer better economy, low and mid range power. If it really does... not sure probably not noticable. The idea of sequential is to squirt as the valve is open, so fuel doesn't sit around and drop out of the air. The benefit of running the injectors in batch mode is that you are able to squeeze a little more out of your injectors as it squirts twice instead of once like the sequential. I believe the wolf3d's closed loop mode is a little more flexible. So really it comes down to your tuner, what does he like.

Which is the whole idea.. I'm all for getting one to look, think and do a little research for them selves.

The RB20 powerfc's can be had easily.. Buy in australia and youw ill pay big $$. Your best bet is to buy one from nengun. http://www.nengun.com/ As I've recently discovered the AP Engineering RB20 Powerfc is nothing more than a slightly modified RB25 powerfc, it 'appears' the ap engineering use an early model rb25 pfc and modify it.

The new pfc's apparently don't have that. Maybe Djetro or PFC Pro? Some one open up their Djectro or Pro pfc.

Not when Bl4ck32 runs the stock blow off valve.

The mosfets were fine however the capacitors and resistors had been fried, I did pick some of the tinny little resistors that can hardly been seen were replaced. All capacitors were replaced as well as resistors. He said I was 'very' lucky. A few pics of before and after.

Yours may be a different issue but its what I have came across when trying to push turbo's to the limit. An example is the stock rb20det turbo, mine was unable to hold more than 12.5psi running a bleeder or HKS ebc, I can't remember the model but it was a simply knob duty and gain adjustment type. I bought the Blitz SBC-id, in Auto mode where it would actively change the duty cycle in order to hold the given boost level I could see on the display how the solanoid was operating, at peak torque it was basically all the way open letting a lot of boost through to the wastegate, the duty cycle here was low, at high rpm the solanoid was almost completely closed in order to hold the given boost level. Put the sbc-id in to manual mode where you only have the single duty and gain setting it would drop boost. I was told to grab a decent boost controller by Tim possingham the origional owner of RPM, you may remember him as he's been in a few zoom mag articles and did a well known stock intercooler pressure drop test vs an aftermarket intercooler. He told me not to waste my time with the manual type ebc's and grab a avcr or blitz item if you want to get everything out of your turbo you can.

Will do buddy.

Mashrock, the profec is a basic ebc, it uses a signle value gain and single value duty cycle in order to achieve a given boost level. Some of the higher end ebc's greedy profec e0-1 I believe it is and the avcr, blitz sbc-id learn the boost curve. Essentially it uses a different duty cycle for given parts of the rpm or boost curve to hold stable boost. If thats not the problem which I doubt it is if you are running a well sized turbo then it may be a boost leak or soemthing silly.

YEAAAAA HAAAAAA!! $160 later and Force electronics fixed the PFC. I've just tested it in the car now to head down and pay them.

Yer who cares what others have.. It what you like that matters.

Gary any experience with the GT35r .82 at 13psi? Foolboost is running the std injectors. I think it will be damn close and 'possibly' just a little out of reach of the std injectors with fuel pressure.

Good stuff. My pfc is in getting looked at so I will know within the next couple of days if its frigged or not. Fingers crossed the ignitor is still ok.

bah bull shit... Keep it within the considered save 15% and its fine. The GT35r @ 13psi the std injectors 'should' be ok providing they have been cleaned, running a tad more fuel pressure and not pushing much past 210-220rwkw. It will be close but at least you 'may' get away with it, on std fuel pressure there's no chance. Foolboost, please do give tilbrooks a ring and tell them your situation, ensure they know about the stock injectors and if a gt35r pushing 13psi will require larger items or a little fuel pressure will get you by for now. (as they are as afr's are not overly rich, its probably chewing fuel as its a fresh motor and injectors may be a little dirty). I run a bosch pump and found the std injectors were maxing out a tad early as the std wiring running to the pump was letting it down, at load the pump was only seeing 11.2v, rewired it now see's 13.8v or what ever the alt puts out to the dot. The problem is people try to squeeze 450bhp out of 370cc injectors... This is where the problem lies. Try to squeeze a tad more in order to drop the duty cycle to a safe level and its fine. GTR injectors hit 80% at around 230rwkw on std fuel pressure. With fuel pressure you can push 270rwkw odd but I wouldn't go much more. So... ditch the gtr injector idea and jump straight in to 550-600cc items.

cry41t, What boost are you running? Chances are its hitting R&R.

I've thrown the pfc in darrens and it does the exact same. When darren brings down his stock ecu I will find out what else is gone in mine, hopefully nothing but apparently its common for the ignitors to go.

Raise fuel pressure = more fuel flow = lower duty cycle for a given power level.

here here.... Crysis will only be available on DX10 cards.

That GT35r is not going to work well with the std injectors. I would grab an adj. fpr to help them handle 13psi or what ever the lower level is.