Cubes

Yep definitely no post deleted.

What other post.. Posts are only usually deleted if they are reported by some one or breach the guidelines http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?act=boardrules

My R32 locks with the key in it, but it does have to be in the off position. When you first shove the key in it how do you unlock the steering wheel? I am required to turn it to the acc. positon with a little wiggle of the steering wheel. I would think if locked once they key is slid out then it must also unlock by simply sliding the key in.

The rb's are all the same, the only difference is the extra deck height, everything is the same as the rb20/25/26 block. So yes.. the balancers fit the standard rb30 crank. Which is why I stated earlier, its been known for vlt's running around to break oil pump drive gears over 6500rpm, skylines, it appears to be some where over 7500rpm, when you look at any serious high rpm rb26 they too run aftermarket balancers so there is definitely something in it.

With the 5w40 Motul gear, over 3500rpm its a smidge under 6kgcm2... I should walk out to the car and have a look what units the std guage use.. lol SK, to back up what you are saying I have seen on the net somewhere a dyno back to back with different oils in a subaru turbo thing, the castrol 10w60 actually made more power than some of the other lighter weight oils (splitting hairs type results, but none the less it wasn't less power), if I remember correctly better than the majority of 5w40/5w50 oils with the only one beating it being the mobil 1 0w40. I would have kept running the 10w60 but was concerned with such high oil pressure, I must admit fuel economy is the same between oils. Just cruising at 100km/h it was sitting damn close to 6kgcm/2 vs the 5w40 that sits on roughly 4.5.. Busky2k, I remember when whatsisname was running the motul 300v 10w40 in his close to 300rwkw rb25, he ended up moving to the 300v 15w50 as the 10w40 was not cutting it, how he knew this im not sure.

and it shows in the oil pressure.. the castrol 10w60 in mine reads a tad over 7kgcm2 or what ever the unit is over 3500rpm..

The biggest benifit of the rb25 is not the large displacement its how well the head breathes.

As he's a motor mechanic he should have been able to hear it pinging its nut off or at least seen the puffs of unburnt fuel in the revision mirror. But maybe not. I'm always a little iffy about the fuel pumps in these old r32's.

It really is only an estimate as to where others have broken oil pumps etc.. My self... I won't be taking mine past 6500-7000rpm but don't need to as I run turbo. Bu5ter has the good bits, an ati balancer & full oil pump drive gear and takes his to 8500rpm. I think realistically 8500rpm is pushing an RB to the very limit. Its proven even the ol' rb26 taking it regulary past 7000rpm drastically shortens its life (i.e bathurst)

If you've been cruising www.bobistheoilguy.com you will know its good.

Beer Baron, Have you done an analysis on the castrol 10w60? I'm keen to see whats in it, being if castrol skimp on moly and what not.

Yes it is revs that kill a motor, light weight pistons and rods do wonders. Use the link in my sig to dload the rb30 pdf.

It all depends on your driving and how many kays the cars done. We stress too much about oil... Grab what ever good oil you want it won't make or brake it. I've never had issues with either mobil 1 or castrol not lasting 5000km's, I have however had issues with oil being used when its a 5W30 oil, 5w40 is fine and the lowest I would go.

who me?

Firstly... What made it pop... Are you still running the std fuel pump?

Thanks for sharing your find coastlife, no doubt it will be in the back of my mind if something similiar occurs.

What oil pump are you running, I've been advised this is not recommend if one sticks with the std rb30e oil pump. And unfortunately harmonics are not balanced out, 7500rpm is the limit on the stock balancer, they have been known to let go from 6500rpm using the rb30e balancer and some where around 7500rpm with the rb20/25/26 balancer.

I'll measure mine tomorrow, its got stock springs and shocks. I'm sure mines some where around 340 something mm.

<mumbles> more fuel pressure + 18psi </mumbles>

Thats fine, the credit I pass on to all of those that shared usefull info in the rb30 thread in forced induction. With regards to the guide geared towards N/A. Really there's not much to it, build it to handle high rpm (crank collar & ATI balancer), a nice set of 272duration cams minimum, if possible a solid lifter kit so you can run some decent lift, machine the head around the buckets as to allow greater than 9mm lift, adjustable cam gears, 10-10.5:1 comp ratio, nice port job, port match all manifolds/plenums, larger throttle body, valve deshroud, combustion chamber polish, , powerfc djetro (run it on map to remove the afm restriction as inlet restrictions are bad for NA) Thats all I can think of off the top of my head.. But as you can see to do it the way I would like to do an NA RB30DET it will cost $$.

lol.. yes.. Many do not think of the basics. Damn I've been here as long as you - 2days. 2002.

Yes well I guess I assume others will also check plugs and the usual bits before hitting the dyno. I always do plugs, check coils, check for vacuum leaks, check all ic piping clamps (slowly they are being replaced with t-bolt), replace fuel filter. Common sense really. Oh and if its being tuned ensure there's more than half a tank in it.

The big benifit of the rb30det is it will return excellent fuel economy for the power being made.. Cruise around normally with the odd bit of stick and expect 11L/100km's or so providing all the tuning, o2 sensor, injectors are all up to spec. One reason I sold my old VS V8 commodore, after a few mods (cam, ecu, exhaust) shiet did it suck some fuel.

Maybe the plastic was hot? Transfered a little temp to the sensor or something. A temp difference doesn't mean he's incompentant.. but do quiz him next time the car is in there as to why the inlet temp is so high.

Thats the guide I put together. TwincamVL has simply linked to it. Some one has destroked an rb30 crank with rb26 rods and custom pistons to make it all fit inside an rb26 block, rb25 block could also be used. It came out to 2.9ltrs and has been reving hard to 8000rpm and making if I remember correctly 400rwkw.. I think, either way a shiet load of power... but yer without any isues.. yet. So thats another option. With regards to the rb30 block looking old, It actually looks the same as an rb20/25 block but with added vertical ribbing on the outside of the block between the bores.