Cubes

Threads back up ppls. Please keep it nice and on topic. Most definitely no trolling.

It was wise steering clear of the blue 32. If the aircon needs regassing chances are its been like that for a while and most definitely has a leak. When they sit around for a while ask what bl4ck32 what happens to the ac compressor. bang bang bang bang... Not good. Enjoy your little 32, they are a great little easy to drive first car. When (not an IF) you wind the boost up to 14psi or so becareful of that snappy boost curve.

Awesome... I'll check it out when I see it in the car park as mine has an issue on the roof that needs fixing.

I've cleaned the thread up. Keep it clean and on topic ppls.

The whiteline rear pineapples are not bush replacements. Noltec are the only ones I know of that make complete bush replacements.

FMIC, ECU, exhaust and boost will see 190-200rwkw. Adj. cam gears may see slightly over 200rwkw. All depends on the dyno, DD dyno's appear to be within 10rwkw of each other in SA.

Flange doesn't matter, thats what adaptors are for.

Its most likely a standard run of the mill VLSD. or.. Only you would know this.. Does it run an active LSD as some of the later *don't really know to much about the 33's in this regard* do. Drive it until it gets too loose then drop a mech lsd in to it with some castrol oil.

Why a tripple plate. Don't over clutch the car there is simply no need. A good 9 puk single with a nice flywheel will be fine. A twin is better though.

Busy2k, The 56trim is a dog, the less common 48 and 52 trims paired with the .64 are definitely better. The .86 is too laggy. What other options are there for a little more power than the gt2530 offers for under 2k. Not many.

I've had a good look at the compressor maps. If you want to start pushing more than 19-20psi through the 48trim 71mm Comp wheel consider stepping up to the slightly laggier 52trim that will be fine for up to around 24psi and a few more horses. I personally would stay away from the 56trim comp wheel. But if you can pick up a good s/h hksgt2530 thats obviously a tried and proven responsive turbo. For a little more power on pump fuel the gt2871 48 - 52trim is worth while.

lol... The GT3540R won't make boost until 6500rpm. That turbo is way way too big. If you want new I'd probably look at the GT2871 48trim Comp & paired to the .64 turbine housing. http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod414.htm Push 18psi or so though it.. Should be a nice streetable turbo on the rb20.

I fill up once a fortnight. I get anywhere from 420km's right up to almost 500 depending on how and where I drive. I never drive on the open road.

lol... Twincharge would be awesome.... I consider you to be the

Hi ppls, I'm looking in to diff ratio's and diff swaps for my R32 as the std VLSD open wheels and the ratio is too low (numberically high) for the RB30. I've been looking at a 3.69:1 ratio as for the way I drive it appears the turbo will be spooling perfectly as I leave corners etc. + the added advantage of improved economy with PULP soon to hit $1.50 per litre. I've spoken to a few diff rebuilders and to simply swap a pinion and ring gear they want around $300-$400 + the gears which I can pick one up for $150, then I need to drop a decent center in it, possibly a GTR mech center for $550. So its going to work out fairly expensive.. $1100 or there abouts for a decent center and ratio change. I then came across one diff rebuilder that said why not look at dropping a early 90's Z32 TT R230 in to it. They run the ratio I am after and with a few little modifications they bolt up. 'Apparently' swap the input flange and solid mount the front rubber bushes, the early Z32 R230's run the 5bolt half shafts. It sounds too easy as I'm sure the R230 I had a quick look at looked wider than my R200. Has any one had any experience with the R230's or has access to one that can check out the rear cover plate?

Fatz, Which rb30e pwr steer pump did you use? R31 or VL? Awesome conversion. Well done.

If you want reliable high rev's do not skimp on the crank oil pump drive collar and aftermarket balancer. The aftermarket balancers are expensive but its the only way an rb30 will hold together. BUT.. that depends on what you consider to be high rpm. Over 7000rpm in my book is high rpm. Look at any serious high rpm rb26, they also steer away from the std balancer. Springs will depend on the cams.

Walbro will be fine for your application. Youve done well with the stock pump, mine began running out of flow at ~160rwkw.

lol.. its kind of related.. After all its an R33 RB30 conversion thread... bigger motor generally means bigger brakes.

When I say hold power I am talking about holding power after peak power has been made. Holding VE up at high rpm. Stock exhaust manifold = power nosing over quickly after peak power. A nice aftermarket manifold = power holding up for another 500-1000rpm before it begins to slowly drop off to a point where there is no point reving the motor any harder due to a lesser average power when selecting the next gear. Its almost always beneficial to 'over rev' a motor (well the rb's anyhow) as it results in a higher average power. Higher average power accelerates a car quicker. Off topic from an off topic.

Care to elaborate on what is considered not to be perfect? The same applies to ALL motors. Ensure the deck and head are flat so you achieve a good seal.

The RB30's hold power to 7000rpm+ providing you run a nice exhaust manifold, cams and turbo suitable to flow the airflow required. You do the same to the rb30 as you would to a rb25 if you wanted the 25 holding power to 8000rpm+. As you know... a larger motors flows more air at a lower rpm. Realistically 6-6.5k is plenty, if you require more road speed per gear its best to tweak the diff ratio than simply pushing the rpm up higher. Remember turbo's LOVE load.

Awesome... How long until its on do you think?

The R33 brakes are fine, they are the same as the R32 brakes but spaced slightly furthur away from the hub as to fit a larger disk under them. Exactly the same as the gtr 4pots and even R34 brakes. I suspect you either had extremely dirty brake lines (as i did when I received my car) or you were running crap pads. The R33 brakes are quite good. Bl4ck32 runs the R33 GTST/R32 GTR brakes on the front of his, they area clearly superior and offer better pedal feel than my brakes. Its obvious really.. A larger disk requires less pressure to slow down.

New valves.. wow.. expensive build. I don't believe forged pistons are required until one decides the power level requires forged rods. But.. please search. Its been covered many more times than I remember.