Cubes

As a general rule when rebuilding you always work out if it needs to be bored first, then buy suitable pistons, then have each bore bored to suit the pistons as pistons can vary in size ever ever ever ever so slightly. Thats if you want to run perfect bore/piston clearances. All the little extra bits you do to a motor all add up and make a difference to performance/reilability.

I recently had 2 heads off an RB30e, one was on gas and perfectly clean, the other was rather dirty and on fuel, no where near as bad as that though. Shall be interesting to see how the head on mine looks after almost 40,000km's. I drive it like a grandma 90% of the time.

I've attached a tuned vs untuned compare map. The red indicates leaned off. For example if the initial value is 1.000 the modified value is 0.996 the compare map will indicate a red value of 4. Derived from 1.000 - 0.996 = 0.004. unsure what the +19 value is at load point 9 rpm N06. Possibly a tuning slip up. An hour was only spent working on light load so it isn't a perect tune, the other hour was trouble shooting. The tunes rough enough for now. No point spending big $$ (500-600) on a nice tune when there's bigger turbo's to come and will most likely require a map resolution (map reference) change.

When u init the pfc does it set the values within the pfc to 166% also? I was thinking it may have been a datalogit supplied basemap thing.. no idea really.

Airflow is all 100%. With the R33 Airflow correction table it wouldn't idle, unsure why as its running everything R33, being the airflow curve, maps, etc.. With regards to afm voltage, it peaks at 4330mv, being 4.33v. Running the std afm that would be around 5 to 5.1v.

Here's mine.. Its running 34 GTR injectors that flowed 480cc @ 40psi. The injectors are trimmed @ 58.5% (260cc / 444cc * 100). Its running the R33 rb25det map reference, airflow curve, inj map (tuned) and ign map (only wot touched). Boost starts to be made around load point 12, prior to that its under vacuum. WOT hits load point 16-17. After the tune there was a noticable improvement in off boost acceleration, especially in the vacuum area's *only just* prior to boost being made.

With regards to the cold enrichment. I've grabbed the table from an R34 GTR. Within the PFC the R32 RB20DET right up to the R33 GTR all run the same cold enrichment, which is richer than the R34 GTR. So its... The R34 GTR table does offer better cold drivability even though its leaner, driving immediately after starting still tends to bog a little when coolant temps are below 25degree's. It most definitely feels like a rich bog, now the cold weather is well and truley in I'm going to start tweaking it. Running the std pfc cold enrichment I find the car tends to bog a little on light throttle. The leaner table feels much nicer to drive, gives the car a warm feeling if that makes sense.

Guilt-Toy. No... You will simply develop an incomplete burn hence lean miss and begin using MORE fuel. The exhaust gas temperature peaks at 14.7-15:1. Should you go leaner the exhaust gas becomes cooler, should you go richer the exhaust gas becomes cooler. Run 14.7:1 at full throttle and you will most definitely burn a hole in a piston if you don't smash it to pieces by detonation first.

Sorry ppls... I need to make myself clear. I said in not so many words..... IF you have to rip your head off to get to the bottom of the oil issue THEN drop the valve springs in as one would be silly not to take the opportunity to make ones life easier. Low km RB26 valve springs can be picked up cheap. From $100 to $200, if the heads off to check out oil restrictors or bore/piston condition (hence your major oil breathing problem) why not drop them in.

R31 Power... Ash, 250rwkw through an rb20 gearbox...hrmmm BANG!! Mine broke with only 176rwkw. BUT.... Mine making 176rwkw was making the same amount of rear wheel tractive effort (rear wheel torque) as freebaggins 313rwkw Rb25DET. Torque kills gearbox's. If I were in your position.. lol.. I would throw a 14psi adjustable actuator on it from ATS for ~$120 and tune it to that... and take it easy. But still 6-7psi should make an N/A linear feeling 190rwkw without too much trouble.

I wouldn't worry about valve springs just yet. That is unless you have to rip the head off to find out whats going on with the excessive oil floating around. If the heads off then the obvious thing to do would be to drop a set of gtr springs in there. Do remember 1bar through the gt35r will most likely have your injectors nearing their 'safe' 80% max on std fuel pressure. I believe Fatz RB26 thing made 270rwkw on 17psi running a stock rb26 ecu. I forget what it made after a tune. The 90 degree bend.. If it were me i'd simply drop a silicon 90degree bend on there. Then connect the silicon bend up to a piece of pipe that runs *from memory* at a max angle of 15degree's until it matches ic pipe dia. EDIT: Highlighted one paragraph to make it just that little bit clearer.

hrmm... I lack the funds at the moment. I have ~half of it now, should be able to get another half for it in another few weeks. (poor uni student). Looks like the valve springs won't be going in yet. Priorities.

Are you sure its never been used? Octane booster can cause a turbine wheel to yellow/orange up a little, making it look ceramic. Let me have a look, I'll be able to see if it really is ceramic.

Did you find the ign had to be adjusted to prevent ping with such an afr? I don't appear to have issues with det, light load 0 vacuum will take any ign value you throw at it. (obviously silly as more ign. timing doesn't necessarily = more torque) Although, run 91ron fuel and its a different story.

My understanding is that at 14.7:1 EGT's peak at their highest, below or above this the egt's drop. Maximum economy really depends on the motor its self, lean it until drivability suffers. As SK said to me... Lean it out under load, use the injector pump settings to gain throttle response. Many of the RX7 blokes lean out their rotors (which are damaged by lean afr's easier than piston motors) to around 14:1 with a psi or 2 of boost. They then for example drop to 13.5:1 up to 5-6psi then 13 to maybe 9 then maybe 11-12:1 under 9-10+ It really depends on how the RB handles the lean conditions under 0 vacuum. If it bucks and is obviously not liking it richen it up until it no longer.. Maybe it can handle leaner.. who knows, no one really shares their information too much but I do plan to find out. With the FCTune's auto tune function soon to be released I am hoping to get my hands on a wideband so I can do a little street tuning. My current tune runs 14.7 during closed loop then drops to 13.5 (forget the vacuum) then 13:1 under 0 vacuum.

That slow R32 behind you looks like its having trouble getting past. hehe

I really have no doubt that turbo will push mid 200's on around 15psi, its what the gcg items appear to do before they run in to detonation issues.

That turbo doesn't look like a t3/4 at all. It runs what looks like a 6blade comp wheel, notice the turbine wheel location has had the sh*t machined out of it. To myself.. It looks slightly bigger than a GCG highflow item, well the turbine side appears to be machined more so and its not running the crappy 7 blade comp wheel, its possible its running a gt3040 or gt3076 core or something. I've been told it is possible to fit the 60mm turbine wheel in the vg30/r34 turbine housing by ATS here in Adelaide. I believe GCG use a slightly smaller turbine wheel than the better 60mm item. I do suspect the turbine housing you have there is the slightly larger vg30/r34 item as on the rb25 it comes on around the 4k mark, on the 3ltr that would be around the rpm's you are talking. EDIT: I've just had a really close look at the turbine housing, it does appear your not running the gt30 turbine wheel as I can see a slight lip, I measured the opening on my rb20 and vg30 turbine housing and for a 60mm turbine wheel to fit in there there will be no lip. None the less the power is up there, its not like it will be making 200rwkw, its obviously around 250rwkw possibly 260 nudging close to 270 on a run of the mill dyno dynamics. Thats based on sensible (well not that sensible) fuel pressure through the stock injectors. Any more than 250-260rwkw and its just a matter of time.

LMAO....

1JZ.747, Impressive 60ft's... What tyres and size are you running.

Yer its a head off job. Ahh well.. See what Bill says about the turbo and go from there... When do you expect to have the turbo back?

15psi = 294rwkw yet with 3250rpm full spool? Almost sounds too good to be true, if thats really the case stick with it as a GT35R will be laggier and will require more boost to make that power. What fuel are you running? Turbo specs? What fuel pressure are you running?

3460 pounds = 1569.4296 kilograms umm... Thats not exactly whale territory. When I drove an R33 it felt whaleish due to the lack of rear vision, it simply made it feel big. BUT The R33 is a nicer looking car than the R32. My personal opinion, but as the saying goes some can't have their cake and eat it. I required a nice little car for Uni that wasn't too expensive, the R32 fits that bill nicely. And its damn fun to drive with the rb30det.

The std ecu does not have an issue with R&R. They simply fuel cut. Ppls have dropped hks2530's on them with an FCD and made 200rwkw on the stock ecu. R33 ecu... yes major r&r. Dyno power runs are not expensive. Anywhere from $35 to $80 depending on the shop. Throw iton the dyno and see what the afr's, boost and power curve are doing. No doubt it will shed some light on whats up with it, much cheaper than replacing a fuel pump that may not make a difference. It could be a number of things... for example afm, knock sensors, fuel pump, cas... throw it on the dyno to weed a few of them out.

Did I say 15litres.... lol. Probably a bit too much. I'm definitely with R31Nismoid on this.