Stagea_Neo

Hi Bart, You can measure the thread at the top of the strut with a caliper. See pic. Cheers, Pete

finally got the last 2 pics & vids to upload.

tein6.mp4

tein5.mp4

I had two more pics and vid's to show but not letting me post, sorry, can supply direct url if needed.

FS: TEIN EDFC - M12(F) + M12(R) Hi All, Have this TEIN EDFC with loom, user manual, hex bolts and M12 motors for sale. Purchased it of the Yahoo Japan auctions. However I needed the M10 motors not the M12 as I acquired (hence the sale). Have been un-used by myself except for a bench test / vid.eo for purposes of selling. It looks fairly new/un-used by previous owner. The unit and motors work fine, all lights up, adjusts without issue and programs the 3 memory settings by just holding P1,P2,P3 for about 3 seconds. Quite responsive. Gives audible beep when plugged in and doing adjustments.... similar to some audio head units. I 'believe' they will suit any car that has Tein's with dampener adjust and M12 thread. Can arrange post or pickup. Have already got a pre-paid box from Aus. Post and wrapped it all up nice in bubble wrap, so postage is covered in that regard... or if prefer to use own courier or Aus. Post express etc.. can sought that and add on to the asking price. Located: E.Suburbs Melb. PM me if seriously interested and can sought payment, supply contact info, arrange post and/or pickup. $300 (firm...as incurring quite a loss on what I paid)

I can vouch for Clarion's longevity and functionality, have a DRX9675z since 1995 and still going strong. Also compatible with ipod/iphone (30 pin) which did not come out until 2001 thanks to Ce-Net adapter that was released around that time.

I got 358km so far and the fuel light just come on, fair improvement over pushing to get 300km. I attribute this more so to fixing the hoses. I guess the 02 sensor, helped a bit + cold temps of late. Have reverted back to the original thermostat today and re-tweaked the aac valve screw to correct idle speed. Will post up again if any dramatic results.... hoping for 400km a tank

+ 1 for Knox Automatics. Great knowledge, experience, honest customer service and a great bloke to chat too about anything cars. I was there the other week, got my solenoids replaced + service / new filter/fluid the usual.... The Stag is sooo smooth and a pleasure to drive now . Can hardly wait to wake up each morning and go driving. Pete

BOV Valve Replacement Hoses - I MacGyver'd It Hi All, I've been checking various vacuum hoses for wear and tear/leakage, going hard or cracking etc as my fuel consumption has been sh... Thought I'd share what i did For the large hose on the BOV, used radiator hose from a rav4, which matched the diameter/v.close to the original. Went down to autobarn, the guy recognised the original and said that's of an RB engine b4 i even said what it was off...he's a nissan driver too. For the small hose going back to intake manifold, just used some 1/4 inch fuel hose, got it from clark rubber, as autobarn didnt have any left of the reel in same size/pay per metre. Also did the 76mm on the intake near the throttle body as it was hard as a brick, not sealing, could see soot at each end of the hose on the metal part of intake. Result thus far is better fuel consumption, smoother idle and dont have to press accelerator pedal has hard to go anywhere. Cheers, Poida

Brought my Stag a keying, arrived in the mail today. Very impressed with the quality

Here are the pics for reference, best viewed in full screen to see where i circled the screw points. I reckon its the screw in console pic 5 under the coin tray that might be giving you grief. Cheers, Pete

Just saw this post. I can post a pic for you 2moz of a spare centre console i have so you can see all the screw/mounting points. (time for sleep now). Only assuming, did you see / not see the screws down near the seatbelt mounting points on left and right?

+ 1 for Traction Tyres in Rowville. Great knowledge, advice and customer service, kept me updated/informed on each step, discussed pros/cons of my setup, tyre wear, how i drive etc.. very impressed. Going back there soon to tweak setup, as I'm about to fit some new adjustable bits:) ................................................................................... I'm glad I came across this thread, previous tyre/alignment workshop/brand I trusted for many years since I've been driving proved to be half arsed in the alignment side of things. I wont be buying tyres of them in future also...lost my business.. I should have paid more attention on previous visits when the guy looked liked he was CBF. When I asked him on the last visit, how were the tie rods, he replied 'I didn't check them, I'm just doing the alignment'... WTF, They are part of the alignment!! My tie rods were that loose, you could hold the base, and get the vertical bolt that joins the wheel/strut and stir it around like a witch with a cauldron for FFS. Anyway..... have new tie rods and aligner/tyre place to go now who I trust.

I stumbled across this seller on ebay the other day : http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/dohman2005?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Has Stagea stickers, T-Shirts, Keyrings, air fresheners etc.. Might be able to do a custom job or knows somebody, worth a try ..........I'm only assuming, don't know the person or anything. I just purchased a keyring, sticker and air freshener

I ended up getting the UAS bmc since the last post, can notice a bit of difference there. thanks for the tip Currently sourcing some spare front brakes lines, so the brake guy can use them as a template to make things easier, and my car doesn't have to be off the road for too long.

I tried a new thermostat that opens at 71deg, no noticeable difference on economy... did get 320km 2 weeks ago, but i recon that was due to the freezing cold weather / denser air. I'm at 18-19L per 100km. The idle felt a bit softer with different thermostat, so adjusted the aac screw a 1/4 turn to the left, idle feels better. tested the old thermostat, started to open at 78deg, fully open by 86deg, about 4-5mm gap. Also i recall my natrad radiator was about twice as thick as the standard radiator. Fuel filter has also been replaced in last month or so + oil and oil filter Replaced the charcoal canister hose that runs back to the rear of the motor as it had cracks. Replaced the blow of valve rubber hose, as i wasn't confident that it was sealing properly. Replaced 3inch hose on the throttle body / intake which was rock hard, im sure it wasn't sealing correct. Pedal feel is better, will post in a week or so on the km.

Hi Tom & All, The 48520-23U26 suited the S2 stag fine on driver/passenger side, my build date 11/98 for reference. Before the swap, I measured from the inside of the outer tie rod lock nut, to the last low point on the thread of the inner tie rod. Both sides done with a vernier caliper so i had an accurate reference point from when they were last locked off by the steering aligner guy at the tyre place. 12.05mm on the left and 11.90 on the right for me. Upon removal of my original tie rods, they were shagged, approx 50% play on the left one and 80% on the right, hence the measurement variation above when sitting stable on the alignment hoist. As the left was less shagged, I used 12.05mm as the reference for fitting the new ones, eyed in the wheels, and steering wheel, looked nice and straight, tightened it all up. I can accelerate and brake with no hands and go in a straight line. Still going for a wheel alignment to get it checked. Maybe use that measurement as a DIY/TIP, before driving down to get checked by a professional? I'm a bit fastidious about using the right tool for the job, see pic below, get a ball joint/tie rod separator to make life easy and not potentially have any mishaps. I've seen a handful of people over the years go the hammer bash method (cringe), don't even like those fork shaped tools for the same purpose. Cheers, Pete

Thanks again Bob and Tom, I think I will get that UAS stopper, liked the look of it. I found a listing in Drysdale Vic for Maltech, they also on that braided hoses site i mentioned a few posts back. Looks like them, brakes, clutches etc.. I'll have a chat to the guy the brake guy, see what he advises on the BM57 b4 purchasing, he's already confirmed he can make up braided lines. We just going to make sure measurements are spot on and the order the right hose fittings to ensure all lines up and bolts on correctly. Kudos have a R34 GTR BM57 one for a decent price. That's made sourcing nice and easy http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/brake-master-cylinder-bm57-1716-nissan-skyline-p-538.html I've attached this scan of a faded print i forgot about (sorry), with some lines/fittings, the brake guy got this of his suppliers site and then he can make them to suit length wise. It looks pretty close. I went the t3 slotted also, bendix general ct and bled through approx 1.4 ltrs castrol dot 4 just to make sure all fresh new fluid/no bubbles. Overkill, naah i look at it as over engineered for longevity and safety I'll let you know how it all go's. Cheers, Pete

Silly me, I just looked at your pic/grill/headlights and clicked on it Checked out your build thread. WOW!! Nice Wagon! BBS Rims make it look it means business!!!

Thanks Tom, Is yours series 1 or series 2? Using my vin to search on my S2 RS4V AWD (11/98) they came back as 48520-23U25, so in turn I have ordered 48520-23U26 which is the newer part. Now crossing fingers I have the correct part :). Ditto on genuine. Cheers, Pete

Thanks again Bob for taking the time to share knowledge I follow what your'e saying. What's got me scratching my head a little, is the r34gtt and my s2 both use the BM50 M/C... what else to investigate. I was thinking the booster maybe different, but haven't had one to visually inspect and/or compare part numbers. I've used the r34 lines for a few months, but they a bit long and not stock. l then went back the original c34 banjo bolt setup last week, pulled the nipples an kept full length bolts, rather than cutting bolts to fit, as like to keep things safe/to spec. The feel is the same, got used to it, braking is great a lot better/shorter distance than standard c34, can pull very hard if u want it to. Just missing that re-assurance of the abs triggering like it previously did. Have been looking at a MC Stopper. Do you have any suggestions? I plan to get one asap. I was checking out. The UAS I like as it neat and less look at me, but do these fit a Stag? ie. http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/Parts-Shop/uas-master-cylinder-stopper-649.aspx http://justjap.com/cusco-brake-master-cylinder-stopper-nissan-skyline-bcnr33-bnr34.html Found Mitcham Brake Place via this website, https://www.braidedhoses.com.au/ been chatting to the owner/mechanic (Awesome Guy) on and off recently about some custom lines as there seems to be nothing of the shelf for the Stagea or from wholesale. (unles someone knows otherwise) We saw lots of examples for skylines like below. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nismo-braided-brake-line-nissan-skyline-25gt-p-1365.html Here's a pic of some fittings he had on hand we looking at using compared to original, from the axle stub mount down to the caliper. Doing measurements, etc.. before we go ahead. It's just the last section of line to the caliper on a Stagea that's a nuisance compared to the skyline. If anyone else reading feel free to chip in, I take all advice and give back where I can, be good for others looking into this in future. PS. Just one more Q. Do you recon chucking in a BM57 BMC will help me achieve/get back to what im after in addition to stopper and braided lines? Cheers, Pete pss. That pic is looking down at the drivers side line/block mount as it would be mounted in vehicle. The line inlet on the on all three is facing towards bottom of the pic.

Thanks for the feedback on the threshold/boiling point. I put in a new radiator, hoses, clamps and cap 3 years ago, as had a split top tank. No leaks/splits since then. (touch wood). Cheers, Pete

Good point, I might take it out and put it in a pot of boiling water and test it out for correct operation. Also leads me to another snippet of info, I have one of those radiator caps similar to the nismo that operate at 18.2 lbs (1.3 kg/cm). That shouldn't have any relevance should it?