RS4StagMan

Update; Removed NGK Irridium plugs, they were gapped at 1.1mm, carefully regapped to 0.8mm, inspected them and refitted. Runs much s m o o t h e r now, slight misfire is gone. Had Splitfire coilpacks already in there.

I think tapping them on the concrete or brick wall is Ok as long as they are small, gentle taps and you dont go under the 0.8mm which is what I want. If I do go under the 0.8mm then will need some pliers or something else to carefully pull the outer electrode back (not allowed to touch the centre electrode tip!) A bit different to your traditional coppers.

I do all the work myself. It's similar with the RB25DET NEO engine- a lot of items have to come off to get to the plugs. Also I have some LPG control gear under the auxillary engine cover tucked away that needs to be removed and refitted as well so for me probably closer to 3 hours.

Straight form the horses mouth, NGK website Australia; " It is possible to adjust the electrode gap on precious metal spark plugs using an appropriate method that will not place any force on the centre electrode tip" http://www.ngk.com.au/sparkplug_tech.php# So I guess it is allowed and possible as long as you do not damage the centre electrode in any way while setting the gap.

Now reduced to $270 + postage or pickup for SAU members. Or bid online on Ebay.

I reckon; Coppers about $3/each is closer to the mark and should last 20,000kms = $3 x 6 is $18 every 20,000kms ($18 x 7.5 = $135 for 150,000) Irridium = $18 x 6 is $108 for 150,000km's. Pretty close parts cost, however labour cost (or time for DIY'ers) is the big difference.

Yeah I always check the gap before putting in, however first time I have used the Iridiums and remembered reading somewhere that that they should not be gapped down. So 1.1mm they went in, now have slight misfire at idle- 1200rpm, and thinking about gapping them down to about 0.8mm. I used the Iridiums in this case so I didn't have to touch the plugs for a few years. I for one have always used the coppers and gapped them down between 0.1-0.3mm less than recommended on petrol in other LPG cars, as helps with LPG (increased spark energy required for different fuel). I suppose everybody has their own opinion and preference for platinums/iridiums or coppers based on whether they are providing the labour themselves or paying somebody else to do the job. The parts cost over 100K kms-150K kms probably works out about the same. It takes about 2-3hrs to change plugs in these cars?

So just adjust the tip for required gap but do not lever off the core at all?

Yeah quite newish, under 10K kms old with factory 1.1mm gap.

I've done a search and it has come up with some conflicting information on possibility of gapping down Iridium spark plugs. The ones I have currently are the recommended plug for the RB25DET Neo engine- BKR6EIX-11, Iridium pregapped to 1.1mm The NGK website also lists the PFR6G-11, Platinum as an alternative also. PS; NGK website lists the Stagea as seperate to the Skylines now. http://www.ngk.com.au/sparkplug_imports.ph...500TurboRB25DET I would like to know whether people have had some good or bad experiences with gapping these types of plugs down to say 0.8mm. Is there a special method to do so without damaging the plug? The smaller gap will defintely help with LPG (as NGK recommend) and also slightly higher boost than factory. OR just go plain old coppers is the go?

NOW ON EBAY LINK BELOW; http://cgi.ebay.com.au/KYB-Excel-G-Front-G...A1%7C240%3A1318

Yes, agree that there are so many well priced options now available form dealers and private sellers on very good import cars that I wonder if it is feasible at all to import especially with the screwed exchange rate. The 350GT manual sounds like a great alternative.

Why did you sell? Was it a forced sale?

For sale Brand New R33 GTST front shocks for sale that I originally bought for my Stagea however have decided to go to different setup with coilovers. These have NEVER been fitted, still in box complete with instructions etc. The model number is "341 287" KYB "Excel G Gas" suitable for R33 GTST and may fit other applications too. These are pressurised Nitrogen gas filled with 3 stage compression and rebound valving. Link to KYB website, application charts and also other technical info here http://www.kyb.com.au/product.htm?http://w...au/pages/34.htm and here http://www.kyb.com.au/part.htm?http://www..../part_intro.php These are awesome shocks and they will also work with lowered suspension OK as well. Application: Front Pair, R33 GTST turbo coupe 2WD including 4WS May fit S1 and S2 Stagea however may require lowered springs and mods to bump stops to effectively work. Condition: BRAND NEW Price: RRP $430 pair Sell for $330 pair + Delivery Australia Wide (or pickup Melbourne Metro Area) Contact: Best contact by Email on [email protected] or PM. If you send a PM also send an email to me letting me know as i do not check PM's here that often.

Need to clear all codes first as Chook said...make sure u get the "55" code which is no malfuncton after reset. TPS fault code is "43" see if you get this once you have reset your ECU. If still have the code, from the R34 service manual this is how you set the TPS; 1. Rotate sensor body until you get the specified value on your multimeter (specified value is 4.6V). From memory connect one of the middle pin TPS wires and good engine ground. Do this with; a) IGN switch "ON" b) engine NOT running c) Accelerator pedal not pressed The TPS code will trigger when the output voltage is 4.7V or greater (open circuit) or less than 0.3V (short circuit) for predetermined time while park/neutral switch is OFF and speed is 4km/hr or higher. Give it a go and see how you go. Make sure there are no codes left in system once sorted i.e reset ECU again.

Hi Aaron, Good looking Stag in black....congratulations on your purchase. I was there the other day with my black Stag...looked good together in your carpark like twins. As discussed, there are some quite difficult to get items for these cars and now that you have a Series 2 you're in the same boat... Items from Japan I would like to see become available are; Series 2 RS4V - Front and rear brake rotors (Dixcel and others). No local manufacturer does these. Nissan OEM only. - Front and rear brake pads. (SR or others). Availability in OZ- Nissan OEM. Rears available locally in Bendix but difficult to get, fronts only now became available from Ausbrake but only in standard compound, not in any heavy duty or performance compound. - Suspension. Front shocks. (How are yours?). The factory front ones in my experience rarely last more than 50,000kms. Availability in OZ- Nissan OEM, Bilstein or Koni GTR shocks. Springs- Fronts are GTR fitment but rears I think are unique. Would like to see KYB front and rear shocks being offered with possibly matching springs (Eibach or others) Feel free for others to add to my wish list.

Have you tried Aussie car Loans ?? http://www.aussiecarloans.com.au They generally bend over backwards to give finance but you may have to buy it from a dealer.. or go 'unsecured loan' instead of 'car loan'.

Not sure who we could contact on this forum (or elsewhere) who is in the trade about possibly speaking with RDA/DBA (or any other local manufacturer) on making S2 Stagea front and rear standard and slotted rotors for all of us??? OR trying to match up any models already made and available here, correct offset at least, with minor machining on OD maybe. Last time i checked the Front Nissan rotors where about ($260/each= $520 pair for standard non slotted ones). Looks like Andy has found cheaper FRONTS Dixcel aftermarket from Japanese Import Spares - non slotted for $295pr, slotted $400 pair. http://www.japaneseimportspares.com.au/par...tegoriesbrakes/ This is probably the cheapest option for now. Ideas anyone?? (My front rotors are wearing quite thin and probably can't take another machine job).

The Eibachs sound cool- I have some on our BMW. Do you have part numbers and where did you get them from? $600 front and back sounds reasonable. How lowered from standard are they?

Shannons 98 Series 2 RS4V, 22K agreed value, over 30, Rating 1, free windscreen claim, $500 excess, premium about $800 pa.

Gee these motors are VERY sensitive to spark. As I am running LPG only it is even more sensitive to spark than running on petrol. Changed to NGK Irridiums 1.1mm factory gap a while back but I/m looking at closing the gap a little to 0.8mm to suit. However they reckon not to close the gap on these factory gapped Irridiums as the end metal bit could be damaged or break off??

Have a look at post no. 1 above.

Have '98 Series 2, RS4V with Factory LSD (tiptronic auto). Has been Fasted and verified.

Duncan, It's the FRONT rotors that do not fit a Series 2 - offset is incorrect as I understand it, not rears as in your EDIT. Also can the EDIT be in BOLD to be very clear? RE: The rears I have asked whether they do infact fit, however nobody has confirmed as yet.

I don't do track days- not with a Stagea anyway. If I tow a heavy load, I adjust my speed and braking distance accordingly. Brake conversion second hand + Installation + upgraded slotted disks + better pads = Even more cost. You may or may not know that there are members on this very forum from specialist Insurance companies such as Shannons etc....who may not necessarily know a Stagea inside out, but can EASILY find out the required info....2 spot vs 4 spot SIR- Sorry your car is modified. If an insurance company is looking for an excuse to refuse a claim based on you not fullfilling your duty of care, then they will find it...especially these days. I personally like to disclose all modifications to my insurance company as refusal of a claim will offend and leave you many $'s in debt. The fact that people are drawing attention to this brake upgrade, is information out in the open that brake conversions to these vehicles are probable and may become popular and draw attention to insurance companies insuring your pride and joy.