RS4StagMan

Try Stateroads, they know their imports and will give you a much better and more comprehensive report then RACV. The person inspecting your car will also usually call you personally and explain the report and will answer any of your questions. You don't get that with RACV. Ask about the jap import specialist inspector when you make the inquiry. http://www.stateroads.com.au/contact.asp

Looks like the same car to me. The vin is the vin, unique to each car. I can see the reason for the engine build and the respray now. Nice bit of handy work...........

Hi Darrin, I need a few parts; 1. Air bag connector above glovebox flap. Need the RHS side of this only, is yellow and wrapped and covered yellow tape, need about 100mm length with connector, or to nearest plug point would be better Heres a photo in this thread of what I mean; http://www.skylinesa...filter-removal/ 2. Roof rail strips- both. Dont need the rails however 3. Drivers side weatherstrip plastic thing that goes over the doors 4. Triangle piece plastic black thing on inside near passenger mirror I have a Series 2 but parts should be same, Tried to PM you but says you can't accept anymore messages.

I don't have the source handy at the moment..... I need to dig it out. Not sure if Nissan FAST can help here as we'll. But found Glenn Drayton's 1993 VSpec N1 for sale on SAU a few years ago, has some production numbers info there, however suspect most of that info is based on Wikipedia info. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/201368-ultra-rare-r32-v-spec-n1-for-sale/ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2189214/1993-nissan-skyline/ Is this the same car that you are referring to in South Australia? Excert from article follows- This car is thought to be the only road-going R32 GT-R V-Spec N1 in Australasia. To give some background, the N1 cars were build to compete in Japanese "N1" class racing. They were built between 1991 and 1994. Nissan produced just enough to meet the homologation rules. Here are the build numbers for all R32 GT-Rs: GT-R 40,390 Nismo 560 Vspec 1,453 Vspec II 1,303 N1 228 In 1993 the N1 was based on the V-Spec car (Victory Specification). I do not know the exact number of V-Spec N1's but it is probably around 50, making this car extremely rare. Even the three Gibson Group A GT-Rs prepared in Australia were not based on N1 cars. Being based on the V-Spec car, the N1 gets: - Brembo brakes front and rear - Retuned ATTESA (4WD) system - 17" BBS Wheels (shown in the top two photos) - NISMO aero parts (front bumper, lip spoilers front and rear) Here are views of the front and rear lip spoilers. The N1 was the lightest homologation weight GTR (1330kg). This was achieved by deleting: - Radio - A/C - Rear window wiper - ABS - Lighter headlight N1 cars were designed to survive the longer races in N1 racing and thus received: - N1 steel-wheel turbos - N1 head and cams - N1 water pump - N1 oil pump - N1 pistons, piston rings, bearings The N1 also has air guide equipment for the brakes. All N1 cars were painted in color code 326 = Crystal White. This car has had the A/C retrofitted. It has factory Recaro front seats. The car was dyno'd at 300rwKW = 400rwHP = 550hp@flywheel. The following modifications were done in Japan: - HKS 2530 turbo's - Xforce dump pipes - Apexi Power FC comp - OS Giken adjustable cam wheels - Greddy hard piping kit - HKS drag cooler - 80mm airflow meter's - Nismo fuel pump - Adjustable reg - Exceedy single plate button clutch - Nismo short shift kit - Injectors look to be from a RX7 turbo The car has run 11.6 at 120mph.

Great thread. Just a couple of suggestions from my own research; 1. Most N1's made where not Vspec or Vspec 2's. They were produced from 1991 to 1994 (total made around 228) and all in Crystal White, thin layer, colour code 326. 2. The numbers produced of the N1 Vspec 1 and 2 (built 1993 and 1994 respectively) are hard to come by, but one source suggests only 50 in each year possibly made, leaving about 128 made between 1991 and 1992. In any case they are a very rare specification R32 GTR that is very difficult to source even in Japan.

1. Agree with emphasis on "on the way". Which Spec and How long it will take is another matter. 2. I agree with too many were made of the regular model for potential classic status, however in N1 Spec (worldwide demand) and Australian Delivered Spec ( Aust demand), I believe classic status AND desirability is assured. 3. They will never become the equivalent of the Australian Bathurst classics- that has already been reserved in motorsport history for the 70's cars, the pinnacle being the Falcon GTHO P3. They will however still be highly regarding in Australia and the world for their dominance in racing at the time.

From my own extensive research over the years, the Nismo edition is worth slightly more than a standard R32 GTR but less than a Vspec 1 or 2, for a comparative condition car. That puts you roughly in the broad 10K-20K range, however it is only worth what somebody is prepared to pay for it- Originality is the key. The Nismo spec version is not very highly regarded by collectors in Japan either, even though built in limited numbers, much less than Vspec 1 or 2's build numbers.

That search engine is doing funny things..... You did post that up Duncan you are right..... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/231951-bonnet-strut-part-numbers/page__p__4074895__hl__bonnet%20strut__fromsearch__1#entry4074895 I fitted them up and they fit perfect, 12mm open end spanner and 10 mins. They had "gassprings.com" and "410N" written on them. What did the rears cost to regass?

I couldn't find specific information on where to source replacement FRONT bonnet struts in Victoria, so I am posting this to help somebody else out. I found some following info here: http://www.skylinesa...s-struts-in-wa/ WC34 Stagea Bonnet Struts 400mm long 370 newtons Clip on angled ball , 10mm, both ends. I just recently bought replacements which were Nissan Maxima 1995-1999. I got a few quotes to regass them locally and they were $100+ for the pair, so opted for some new ones. I got mine from Auto and Industrial Gas Struts, pdf attached and link to Ebay Store. Price was $48 + $7.50 postage with metal ends like original, not cheaper plastic ends. http://stores.ebay.c...sid=p4340.l2563 I asked some questions and this was their reply; We know about Stagea import bonnet struts. Patrols are close , but slightly longer but only 340n, Maxima's are slightly different in shaft length etc but work because they have the correct offset end on one end but they are stronger at 410n. Apologies if already covered elsewhere, I did a search and couldnt find anything conclusive. Hope this helps somebody out. Nissan Maxima Stagea Bonnett Struts Ebay.pdf

From what I could determine, it was a factory fitted airbag on the sterring wheel!. If you dont have the bulky airbag sterring wheel still fitted then look on the back of the drivers side sunvisor for the factory SRS airbag markings. This will confirm. BTW, this is a very RARE factory option on the R32 GTRs.

Has anybody got an update on this or any more recent experiences? Any feedback appreciated.

That looks like a nice car. Very rare combo of black, factory RS4s manual and sunroofs. These cars don't come up very often in that factory spec.

Let us know how you go with Chasers and the work they do. I would be most interested.

I would like some details on this as well.

Yes, that's my LPG Stagea, there are a few others that I know about including NM35's however they are all dual fuel.

Any other owners care to share engine mount, trans mount replacement experiences?

Thanks Adrian, I will be sure to check mine when I'm next under the car. Was the car also idling slightly roughly (side mirrors slightly moving) as well as the metal on metal vibration when stationary?

Yes, you are right. I still have a stash of old newspapers lying around for this purpose, newer newspapers would be better than nothing though.

http://exchange.goo-net.com/catalog/NISSAN__STAGEA/ Some weights of the M35 Stagea vs the C34 Stagea. Surprised to see the weight of the ARX weighs in at about 1720 kg!

Might be correct for a factory C34 4WD on petrol, but with the added LPG gear and me in my car, it is close to 1850kg. I'm a realist and always take the total laden weight on the road into consideration, as it is this minimum weight that the car needs to haul to enable a fuel consumption calculation. You may be different. I see plenty of Australian Standard stickers on new cars boasting fuel economy of xl/100, but is it really obtainable? No, it isn't. Reading the basis of how these tests are conducted is an eye opener, they are not conducted under real world conditions at all.

At that power level, I can see why you are getting around 20L/100! Take it back to the place that installed it and get the changeover looked at, is it still under warranty? That is a big safety concern on the road.

You guys getting 17-20 litres/100 (city cycle) seems a little high with the more efficient engine and more efficient liquid and vapour injection systems. I have the age old Gas Research system on my C34 series 2 Stagea (R34 motor), and still get reasonably good fuel economy for a straight gas and 1850+ kg turbo wagon. Highway cycle about 14.5 l/100 City cycle about 17.5l/100 The best I ever got was 12.5 l/ 100 on a trip. A lot has to do with tuning and refining the a/f ratios across the rev range, I know my tuner spent a lot of time on the road and dyno doing this. I regularly go back say every 12 months for a check and adjustment of tune as part of the normal service schedule. From my experience, a lot of tuners will set it up safe and rich, too rich for my liking, and there's really no need to be so conservative if the system has been selected, installed and tuned properly. Most of the LPG installers don't specialise in tuning either, so good to ask some important questions beforehand, including the forecast fuel economy.

The other thing to try is thoroughly clean all the windows on the internal face, I use windex with newspaper, as it leaves a very clean streak free finish. I have been using old newspaper for years to clean glass with flawless results, this was after my friend said to try it about 20 years ago. He had a 70's Falcon GT that he looked after meticulously.

As suggested, try ac on with heater to dry out the air, then check heater core not leaking.

Yes, that was my original thread I wrote back in 2008, hope it helps.