Cjmartz2k

I'm not stirring up the whole "aussie hp vs. BS american hp" debate, I'm just saying I don't think there is anything wrong with his car. Are you guys saying that judging by his trap speed vs his dyno sheet, he has a problem with his car?

Your "descrepency" in trap speed vs. hp has nothing to do with your air intake temperatures. You run what you run and you did it with what ever power your car is making. It has to do with some people's notions of what hp should be or what they have done on a dyno (aka "aussie hp"). There are a lot of people on here that tell you "your trap speeds don't match your hp figures" because the numbers they made on the dyno were lower for the same kind of trap speeds. It's just different dynos. Most dyno's around the world read higher than what a lot of dyno's in Australia read evidently, but maybe you found an "accurate" dyno. Don't let people tell you what your hp figures should be, especially when you have a dyno sheet and a time slip in your hand.

OP clearly doesn't understand how boost vs cfm vs hp works. PSI has nothing to do with anything other than what a certain kind of gasoline can support at a certain compression ratio. Compare the hp a T88 makes at 1.2 bar vs a stock turbo at 1.2 bar. Comprende?

Really looks like a boost leak to me. Also, that could explain your knocking problem. If the turbo is going balls to the wall trying to make boost, but it's only showing 11psi, it's just shoving hot air with out the volume down the engines mouth. Think of what your turbo could make MAX boost if you weren't worried about blowing it or the engine up. Then cut a hole in the intercooler piping and make it max at 11psi. Same effect. Not saying it's the problem, but a boost leak check is cheap and easy.

Dude, blow by is anything that makes it past the rings i.e. oil, unburnt fuel, carbon, etc. That would be HORRIBLE for you oil. There is no reason what so ever to do this, other than hating your engine.

That is an excellent point and seems to have silenced some of the critics. Not all of use are priviliged enough to get dyno numbers in real "aussie horsepower". I guess we will have to settle for the inacurate numbers that EVERYBODY else in the world uses. Regan, I think Guilt-Toy disagrees with you (and me) but isn't getting rude or anything. It's the internet, people are goign to argue. Being a dick about it however and just dismissing what people say like they are the final authority on the subject is another thing. A bunch of people jumping on the bashing bandwagon who have no actual experience with 10-11 second cars just adds to it. I think maybe certain person got a little sand in their vajay jay about the fact they are running the same kind of setup up with a bunch of name brand parts on top of that and haven't managed near those numbers. "I'm not making that kind of hp, so there is no way you are either!"

So you probably have what, around 300rwhp? Please sense the sarcasm not directed at you in my comments.

Nope, not according to 2rismo and some others!! Spinning violently through 1st, 2nd, and part of third will not affect your mph, not even a little! Just ask him

People on this board are notorious for regurgitating what has been said on here over and over so many times it's now considered fact. Somebody gets different numbers from what you expect and they are full of shit, or are using BS "american hp numbers". I'm not saying everybody does it, but a lot. I will grant you guys there are differences in dyno's, and there are a lot of inertia dyno numbers still coming out of the states, but these differences are not 10-15% different from what you guys are claiming--especially on a Mustang dyno which is one of the lowest reading dyno's out there. His 132mph was with less boost and less timing than the dyno run also, so keep that in mind. He's go a full weight R33 and he's not a skinny guy. BTW, how many dyno figures are there on here of people pushing 30psi with that much timing out of a GT35r? **Edit--perfect example, how many of you guys jumping on this "that's a BS number" bandwagon have any experience with anything but a stock turbined car? I know some of the guys posting have some nasty cars, or have built quit a few, but if you haven't ever run quicker than 13's, you might want to keep your comments to yourself.

I don't know if you guys have Turbo VG30det'd Gloria's down there or not, but they have the resistor packs in them as well. I you can find one in the junk yard, you can clip the harness after the plug so you still have it be detatchable if you ever needed. Sounds silly, but I shine mine up every once in a while and I wish I would have got the connecting clip along with everything.

Sounds silly, but a plastic coke bottle cap in the return line will do the same thing as a block off plate and it's NOT possible for it to get sucked in/blow out if you are worried about that.

Dude, do a freakin boost leak check and find the huge leak you have somewhere. If you don't know how, google it. It took me $10 worth of parts from the hardware store and 20 minutes to put one together.

Check to make sure there isn't something stuck in the factory BOV return line. Mine had a coke bottle cap in it to block it off when I bought it!! I have seen that many times here on Okinawa now.

Are you running an oil restrictor at the turbo?

A boost/vacuum leak test is super easy to do and will eliminate that possible problem right off the bat.

nvrmnd

Most people here on Okinawa run Walbro's with no problems. I have twin walbro's in tank and have had no problems for over a year now, and I ran a single one at over 400rwhp a couple of years prior to that. That pump is still in the tank along with another one. There has been a rash of the fake ones popping up though. A lot of reputable dealers get them to distribute and don't even know they are fakes from what I've heard.

Neo's have top feed injectors, unlike regular 25's.

Truck items such as Borg-Warner and Holset? Also, please share some of your bad experiences/knowledge about Masterpower Turbo's.

I've actually seen a couple of threads on the internet (not that it means much) showing a loss in hp putting a screen over the intake of the turbo compared to a nice flowing filtered intake. I actually think the main reason I see around here is the fact that you have to use a MAP sensor negates the need for a MAF, so people are either to lazy/cheap to put an intake and filter on, or their setup precludes it due to pipe routing issues or something similar. There is a S14 on the island with a RB26 and a T88 that recently sucked a bolt into his turbo. He was lucky and only had to replace the turbo (went T51SPL).

Is there any specific type of cooler that can or can't be used? I mean, is there anything out there that wouldn't react well to gasoline? I can find all kinds of power steering, automatic transmission, or oil coolers in next to new condition in the junk yards around here.

Yeah, that's the great thing with holsets. I'd say the HX series of holsets is pretty much on par with the non-extended tip versions of Borg-Warner's performance wise. It's just that they are so damn cheap (at least if you can get them from american ebay). One of the downsides with them is you have to spend a little time hunting up the correct sized ex housing sometimes. You can't just order them with the size you want for cheap. They are a viable cheap alternative to garret's. One thing to note with the comparo's above, they were both single scroll turbo's, but most of the BW's, and almost all of the holset's I have seen are twin scroll which really help's with spool times.

Still sounds like a boost leak problem. Maybe split grommet or blown gasket somewhere. Do a boost leak check--quick, easy, and next to free, just to eliminate that as a potential problem. Maybe that's not it, but that's where I'd start.

I hadn't heard that before. Why would that be? Tire compound doesn't like the steal rollers or something?

You blew off one of your intercooler pipes.