4drftn

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mine had idle problem very similar, i changed the plugs and got rid of the miss, but i still had it idling up and down. so i cleaned my throttle body. stopped it from fluctuating. but be careful when cleaning throttle body, apparently there is a seal around the butterfly, dont rub it of as i did. it will cause your car to idle at 1500 and while driving at 2500!. but i have adjusted my tps to drop the idle until i build a new seal around the butterfly.

go to a wheel and tyre dealer like bob jane or beau repaires, they may have a lock nut key. usually they never use your lock nut key because they have a bucket full of all sorts of types.

those headlights look good but they have no backing. i have seen the projector style headlights advertised on ebay at $900 new. this was awhile ago.

+1 prepwash/wax and grease remover with a rag, let it soak a bit before rubbing off. when iv de-badged a car i find it works.

wish i seen this info 2 days ago. just cleaned the throttle body on my R33 gts-t. my car always idles high and fluctuates. but after cleaning t/b it doesnt fluctuate, justs idles at 1500 and after driving 2500!. i adjusted my tps and managed to drop idle to 1000-1100 which i can handle... for now... with this blue gasket sealant idea... wouldnt you risk blocking the small hole you can see infront of the butterfly... iv noticed the hole inside the t/b leads air to the top right of the t/b into a piece of vac hose that goes onto piping located on the bottom of the crossover which leads to the charcoal cannister.

i got some throttle body cleaner and gave it a good clean. started my car and it idled at 1100 and within about 10 sec it bounced to 1500!. i then adjusted my tps so it droped to 1100. took it for a quick drive, to see how it goes with a clean throttle body, and wouldnt idle lower than 2500rpm! after i got going. mind you it wasnt fluctuating when idleing, probably cause it was idling to high

i've used a cold chisel in the past worked well and multi grips or vice grips, worked to, instead of replacing your sump plug get a big nut (meaning long length nut) and weld it on the end, done it with my commodore, worked a treat. that way there is plenty of room to use a ring spanner and not have to worry about ever stripping the bolt again

well i got it done, he installed a spark plug adaptor, he said it would be a better alternative to installing a helicoil, only had to take the coilpack and plug out, didnt have to take the coil pack cradle. took him about an hour.

get on the highway after driving for a good 20-30 min and drive in top gear of course at 100km/h (as it takes a while to build pressure). your oil pressure should be close to 4. the closer to 4 the better, being either side of the for means too little pressure/oil thin may need changing or low (before you think of topping oil up CHECK dip stick! and to get a good reading leave the car sit for a good while)... or too much pressure/may have to much oil (but after car has been recently serviced pressure will be a little higher). i dont think mods or anything will change it. if you have any doubts and think it may be dodgy. get an aftermarket mechanical gauge like autometer etc. or see a mechanic hope this helps cheers 4drftn

would the R34 gertrag 5 speed bolt straight up to my rb25t thats currently in my R33 without hassle?

iv managed to adjust my tps so it was ideling at a nice level but it still peaks at around 1100-1200 sometimes and other times when i start the car after driving it wont idle properly and will cut out/stall straight away. alot of the time it will fluctuate between 600-900 and cause jerking around 3000 rpm. im thinking of getting a new tps so i can eliminate a faulty tps and also maybe clean my throttle body too, as i have already cleaned my aac. other suggestions on the forum is the cold start.

whats the worst that can happen if installed incorrectly?

more items added.

yeah i was thinking it will be stronger, the helicoil would be metal and the original thread would be alloy which is soft...

went onto a website for the time-serts and rang a few places about getting one installed but they all never heard of them, they all just tried to explain to me that the helicoil will do the job.

pictures of taillights and pod filter plz PM me cheers

it will be possible to go without traction control, would the CAS be a problem? what would be involved?

well basically, down here it cost a mate near $10,000 dollars to forge the internals in his rb25 with stock turbo high flowed, retune and small mods like walbro fuel pump which is pretty expensive and i can possibly get my hands on a neo motor+gearbox with forged internals, all new gaskets, t04 turbo, new larger injectors, FMIC aftermarket Dr.drift ECU etc. (basically everything but diff) pushing a promissing 250kw on 10psi for less than half the price of the rebuild. depending on how much work, time and cost for the conversion will determine what i can possibly do in the very near future. At the moment my rb25 has had modifications (bigger turbo, injectors, cam, FMIC, microtech ECU etc etc) pushing a maximum of 300hp with stock internals. will maybe consider bottom end rebuid or rb30 bottom end etc. but exploring this as an option... cheers

i might add that the gearbox is a Gertrag 5 speed, and i get the tail shaft but no diff... would the tailshaft bolt up to the stock R33 GTS-T diff?

i am considering putting a worked R34 neo motor, running gear and aftermarket ECU into my R33 GTS-T. Just would like to know how much work is involved in doing this conversion. As i am considering this as an option instead of upgrading and rebuilding my RB25, as i can get my hands on the R34 motor. Im unsure if the engine mounts etc. will have to be moved or modified and if customising much of the gear to make it fit, as i am unfimiliar with the R34 motors, and also the electrical side of things regaurding computers and aftermarket systems. any info, suggestions or alternatives etc. will be good, i would just like to weigh up whether it worth it or not

you can try heat.... bog falls out of steel panels when you heat it up... but on fibreglass or plastic it might warp in shape

price drop.

i have a microtech LT-8 ECU fitted, are you suggesting it could be the ECU? is it possible to alter something on the ECU to change whats happening? full house can you explain what you mean by road damage? are you saying overtime the ruff roads may have shook and shocked the ECU?

i changed my plugs, the plugs that were in there was gapped at 1.1, the new ones were iridiums that have a 0.8 gap and got rid of the unsteady idle, it was missing like mad before but now its a very slight miss on idel. plugs have been eliminated, but i still have the high idle problem, would the O2 sensor cause high idle?