4drftn

i can get you one express posted for $95 you should get it by weekend. PM me

ebay, plenty of them on there.

i have exedy heavy duty clutch to suit r33, be quick though PM me

my problem is similar to most, my HICAS is always on most of the time, and while it is its very heavy, if i fit the lockout bar will my steering have the heavy feeling? will it eliminate power steering all together? or will it just eliminate movement of the rear and my p/s in the front will be normal? cheers

changed my spark plugs today in my R33 gts-t (rb25) and all went well but doing the last one i discovered while getting plug out it was tight all the way out, put the new one in and it looked to be slightly off center and. it has been previously cross threaded and has made it quite difficult and now a problem. put it in straight, car seems to run fine with a very slight miss, and idles high (but idled high before doing it) but unsure if its from this because it was missing like mad before i changed them now my biggest worry is losing compression, because the thread is stuffed it seemed to have not gone in as tight as it should tightening 1/2 - 2/3 of the way, but didnt keep trying to tighten it to much more as i didnt want to completely strip the thread, and push the metal down into the head has anyone else had this problem? whats the best way to fix it? does the head have to come off? i was advised to use a heli coil, any alternatives, suggestions or comments. cheers 4drftn

is it always the case it could be rings or turbo? is it anything else it could be? cheers

BOV added

your discs may need machining, as said above if they have glazed they will make noise, using anti-break squeel spray only masks the sound untill they heat up again, with my commodore i used to get discs lightly machined every time my pads were changed. some pads claim to be anti squeel, anti dust, but from my experience disc condition is a contributer to brakes reaction and performance.

all seriousness, it happens alot arsnick seems to be weapon of choice for those who dont like cats in there neighbour hood, cats seem to not be liked by many people, they need to be kept indoors otherwise they dont last.

what does your car idle at? does it idle high every now and then? does it only do this when car is idleing high? my car does it when ideling high, it idles high when the wheather is colder, best take it to a mechanic as thats what i will have to do. i suspect in my case it could be my TPS or CAS, because i have already eliminated the AAC by cleaning it. probably try cleaning AAC see if it fixes the problem.

seen these on ebay, has anyone bought them? do they really work or rubbish? any comments or recommendations... description says - Drift Gearbox mounts are locally made, out of Poly-Urethane. They are used by the professional D1 Competitors. These Drift Gearbox Mounts are a great addition to your S13,S14,S15,R32,R33,R34 (2wd vehicles only), because it helps to stop that nasty gear-stick shake that happens, either when your Drifting, Dragging, of just thrashing hard. It will also help by making gear selection easier and more precise. These Drift gearbox mounts are usually expensive and often hard to find so take advantage of this opportunity. This is yet another great Drift Necessity for your drift car. cheers 4drftn

PM replied

as title says i am after wrenches for adjusting my G.E.T adjustables. i am unsure if other brand wrenches will fit the G.E.T adjustables i have as they are from japan as far as i know. cheers 4drftn

i too have a very similar problem to this and trying to sus it out...

done a bit of reading through some of the threads and found many people after finding a specific type of plug use a certain heat range. now what iv read the correct heat range has to be used to make your car run correctly, the wrong heat range can cause your car to miss fire on idle, melt plugs and can even damage your motor. from what i have read on the NGK website is that heat range choice is best decided by how much modification has been done to your vehicle... modified motor increase compression creating more heat. it is recommended that selection is - in short, is made by choosing one heat range colder plug for every 75-100hp you add *any comments, suggestions or alternatives to finding what heat range best suits your vehicle. will help anyone who is in doubt finding the right shoe that fits (plug) *what gap and heat range are you using for what amount of power you are running majority of the time and/or running at high boost etc. cheers 4drftn

would you consider freight to tas?

i think i most definatly will give it a go... aswell as air guides for maximum gain. does anyone have any pictures of an airguide they have customly made for there setup? also how would i go about measuring the air intake temp/amount? will it be in ECU data?, i have a microtech LT-8 ECU, should i be able to access that sort of info? cheers

sorry i may have not explained myself well, but i am already running viscous fan+12inch cooling fan infont of my radiator pushing air into it... now... what im actually trying to find out is benifits from having a pulling fan on the back of an intercooler or fmic, in other words trying to get more air and cooler air into intercooler to maybe produce more power etc. sorry for the confusion 4drftn

watched a performance dvd the other week and there was a performance/race car on it that had a large intercooler in the back with twin thermo/cooling fans pulling air through intercooler. i was thinking it is a good idea because it will always have cool air flowing through it. when using fmic setup air gets forced into fmic while in motion, but if front mount has cooling fan pulling air through it would make intercooler more effective and efficiant... saying all this if this is right, would putting a fan behind my fmic (pulling) create more of a gain? especially at standstill when intercooler is not getting air forced into it. any info will be great or if anyone else has any other ideas will be a bonus. 4drftn

i went onto the forum but at this stage unable to find the info im after, but i will keep searching on the forum and hopefully can come up with a solution.

could be your mags... have you changed them? or your tyre/tyres... i put a set of second hand mags on my VS commodore and shook like mad at 80km. thought it was something else so got it checked out and replaced all my bushes etc... didnt change a thing. took my mag to a wheel and tyre specialist and found out they were slightly out of round. and recently on my R33 i had the same thing happen and jacked my car up to discover a lump in the tyre.... replaced the tyre and solved the problem. might pay to check this out 4drftn

bump

is the gauge cup autometer too? what size is the gauge? is it 2 inch? cheers 4drftn

picture?

i didnt think of lifters or tappets, but sounds like it wouls have to be the injectors then, i am unsure if they are single spray or not, just know they are 550cc sard injectors which i think are single.