4drftn

how much fuel?

offers?

open to reasonable offers. negotiable

did the arsnik 32 get stolen too???

i recently discovered a very very fast leak of coolant through a turbo coolant feed that had previously been blocked but leaking alot again. iv topped the radiator back up from near empty, only to discover while driving that it is squealing (similar to a slipping belt)... now... i have noticed while driving that when im not accelerating or have the clutch presssed in, the squealing goes away. it is also louder between 80-100km. i imagine if it was the waterpump it would constantly be squealing whether the clutch is in or my foot off the accelerator. im thinking it could possibly be a slipping belt but its only happend since the radiator was very very low (possibly causing the waterpump to starve from any liquid) SO... i sprayed a bit of stop squeal belt conditioner on all the belts, but still does nothing to stop the squealing... it seems its pretty obvious that the waterbump is the cause but just need to be certain that its the waterpump before i replace it. cheers

pm sent

any of these cars been found or recovered?

been around for a while and never posted any pics of my 33, its come along way over the years...

will possibly consider swapping/trading for deep dished rims...

wired up new (proper) numberplate lights tonight... with the fuse out (lights off) i tested both wires with a test light. both wires were showing a negative (earth) current through them. im unsure if there is supposed to be an earth current through both wires??? - - is that normal? - or could it possibly be causing me the problem? i put the fuse in (which sends power to the lights) and one had turned into a power which i imagine is normal. then... I wired the numberplate lights up... working. now... with the fuse still in (which means lights are on) i unplugged the connector plugs behind the tail lights. still stayed on. i plan to remove the rear seats tomorrow, as i think there is a connector plug behind the seats. you advised to start from the front and move towards the back. so i will remove steering column surround and start from the switch (indicator stalk). I imagine the wiring also continues under the drivers side door strip/scuff plate. Is this correct? cheers

alot of ebayers send the wrong gear to suit the correct application. quite some time ago i got one to suit my 33 GTS-T, they sent me one for an S13. i then returned it (my own money), got in contact with them and they sent me out one for a civic!. once again contacted the seller, they asked me to return it as i did the S13 shifter. i let him know i was i need of it in a hurry so they would send it to me before the got there civic shifter returned to them. in the end i got what i was after, and i held onto the civic shifter as i did not recieve a refund on the return postage of the S13 shifter. the design of the shifter was a copy of the nismo shifter, the construction of the shifter seemed sturdy but only use of it will determine how good the quality is especially the bushes etc....

no worries mate, i will do that... i will keep the info updated as i progress through the stages

that would be excellent only i live in TAS. when i cut the wires everything was off, but when i went to wire it up/ test i turned the lights on and placed one of the wires on and nothing, then the other wire and nothing, then stuipidly i placed both on it which caused a spark. i should have mentioned earlier... the light i tried wiring is a truck & trailer lamp (with no wiring), not an actuall numberplate light with an earth wire and a power wire. NARVA truck & trailer lamp P/No. 85874BL Marker Lamp (clear) from my understanding (after it happen) these work by earthing or something along those lines... picture in link - http://autoonecai.cart.net.au/details/528947.html

i currently have all boot trim removed from the car, i will take the tape off and have a check, it only sparked for a split second so hopefully the damage isnt far from the numberplate light location. i didnt smell anything as i had the power off when i cut the 2 wires off. even after it sparked i didnt smell anything. from what i have described, what are the chances of me having to replace the harness? or would there possibly be another solution or alternative to having the harness replaced?

yes mate, i checked that shortly after it happened incase it was accidently bumped in confussion. iv been told there could possibly be a relay behind the dash somewhere that could have burnt... i may have to resort going to an auto electrician as im all out of ideas to what could be causing the drama

no havent got numberplate lights at the moment. there was power getting to the numberplate light holdsters, i used a test light to check, but wouldnt light up the bulbs, even after changing the bulbs still nothing. so iv cut them off and attempted to wire another one i got from autobahn. must have short something out, but didnt blow the fuse... from what iv tried sussing out the wire may have melted into another wire that has a current flow of power even with the ignition off. so currently (temporarily) i have one of the fuses (electric) out. which disables the dash lights, rear lights when the headlights and/or parker lights are on, parker lights and warning beeper. done this temporarily so my battery doesnt go flat etc. brake lights still operate once brake is pressed...

a pro or a bodyworks will use 2pac paint which is said to be stronger than acrylic you buy in a pressure pack. but i have seen the result with acrylic and if done proper and well comes up a treat and an easy diy job that costs you next to nothing. something else to look at would be getting them baked or powder coated...

im not much for the wide body kits on 32's, but this is 1 awsome 32 mate, nice photo..., any others angles?

i have a very similar problem with my rb25, mine gets alot worse in cold wheather. would like to see a solution.

tried wiring new numberplate lights on my r33, had the parker lights on and must have crossed the wires wrong, rear lights went out, the beeper inside the car from leaving the lights on stopped and dash lights went out... i went to the fuses box and pulled the electric fuses to find it was ok. plugged it back in and the rear lights come back on, dash background lighting come back on and beeper come back on. thought it was all good until i switched the lights off and they didnt go off, the light warning beeper didnt stop and background dash light still on. its had me beat whats happining, can someone lead me in the right direction or have any ideas to whats happening 4drftn.

what condition is the rear bar and passenger guard in? also does the rear bar have the rear bumper skirts?

SOLD

+1 damp chamois apparently window cleaners with ammonia arent recommended for tinted windows, majority of cleaners contain ammonia...

is this car sold?

im interested in some parts...is the rear bar stock or aftermarket? and what condition... what condition is the passenger side guard in cheers