4drftn

changing throttle bodys over with tps instead of just changing the tps and im after a throttle body gasket for my S1 R33 RB25 turbo incase the gasket breaks when taking the other t/b off. cheers

i have a spool brand cam gear that i wanted to get rid of that looks like the real deal... and only the other day was in a tread where i was told that others have used these and have positve feedback towards the strong construction and quality of this particular brand make of performance parts. the list also included other spool named performance parts that are quality improvements and upgrades. unsure of the origin of the part but no doubt it would be chinese, but as paulr33 states, make sure you do the reasearch, check feedback from people that have used the part/mod and in many cases ask professional opinions.

i originally had my bov blocked, found out the bov was stuck shut, i got another bov atmo) and found that my car run better with it blocked off. maybe my car was tuned with it blocked, that i am unsure of. my next step would probably be a plumb back bov. also the sound of your bov blocked will depend on what mods you have, i have read on the forum that a pod filter and frontmount or big cooler will make the flutter noise louder. i have both a front mount and a HKS pod filter (suppose to make flutter loudest out of the filters) and the flutter noise is quite loud. also i might add that the flutter noise is caused by air coming back through the turbo (getting chopped up) and comming back through the pod/filter. many people will say that it will not harm your turbo as they run their cars like it for long periods, others will say it will damage turbo but i guess its just one of those things. also you could probably get yourself a adjustable bov that has plumback option and atmo. so if you dont like the way it runs with atmo, you can plumb it, or you can tighteen the neck right up (turbosmart bov) which will tighteen the spring inside it and make it the same as it being blocked off anyway. cheers

would you be interested in a set of volk racing rims

i know what you could be going through, i just took the pod filter of my v8 ute and put the the big airbox with over the radiator surround intake (mouth) because the sound of the induction noise on the pod (paper filter) was very loud, even idleing... but the HKS pod pn (foam pod filter) my r33, the induction noise gets louder when you are comming onto boost, i do like the induction noise it gives, a deep howling noise...

do penalty rates apply? such as over time & double time etc.? or is it worked out as a flat rate (similair to being casual)

i have an adjustable cam gear to suit rb25 which is " spool " brand, it seems to have the same quality in looks as the other top brands but i have never fitted it and am getting rid of it because i wasnt sure of the quality...

that is a joke! will make it easy to transport a burnt out 3 wheeled unregistered vehicle....... did the vehicle have to be inspected or pass any criteria before it was permittable for road access? was the car permittable for road access in both states or did it need to be on a trailer? NSW RTA being more stricked on road and transport than any other state of australia, that will all apply regaurdless to where in australia its being driven (except WA i think, where UVP's dont cover). it would probably be only a matter of time till legislations will be passed where all states in australia will be as hard and stricked on any form of vehicle transport and registrational status.

would a compacitor help?

some people put tape over the bulb (or pull it out) if a mods been done and the engine warning light stays on. aftermarket ecu's often leave the warning light always on if not done correctly

turbosmart supersonic blow off valve, comes with adaptor to suit r33 (bov) used for a couple of months in good condition to suit r33 or take the adaptor plate off and can get flanges to weld onto intercooler pipeing etc. contact via pm it has a couple of small marks on it, works 100%, loud, adjustable neck. $200

pm replied to

car needs to be roadworthy, it would have to be put over the pits to get an unregistered vehicle permit, if the car has a uvp it must have already passed as roadworthy vehicle, the uvp will allow you to get the car from a to b only. permits are only valid for a short time, im sure it was 7 days for me after the car was blue slipped (passed as roadworthy). also if the same rules apply here as they do in NSW, once a car has an unregistered vehicle permit and the time period expires it is no longer able to be extended or you can not get another permit for that vehicle. when we got the ute from NSW it had to be blue slipped and roadworthy and passed over the pits to get the uvp. a uvp certificate at the minimum has to be applied before they would allow it on the spirit of tas. it is a hassle, but cant be avoided.

even after peeling the tint of there is a sticky film still left on the window. you will end up with blisters on your fingers afterwards.

have people been in the back seat? check the earth wire going into the pump with a testlight just to see if there is a pulse... no word of a lie, i got fuel at a servo one night and left the servo and it pig rooted and carried on and just died... realising the fuel pump will not prime. towed it home and ended up replacing my walbro fuel pump with the same model number and still nothing... checked the wiring and discovered that the earth wire had been roughly cut through (after a couple of days of stuffing around). the wiring was located behind the rear seats and movement on the rear seats from having passengers resulted in the wire getting squashed and connection broken to the fuel pump. run an earth wire directly to where the neg battery wire goes on the vehicle body for the best earth point, so it would fail on me. you wouldnt read about it! this was in my r33 GTST and you may not have the wiring to the fuel pump going in behind the seat.

red with white writing seems to look good but some people will say its a bit boy/girl racer looking... do your hubs matt black, i do mine matt black. i reckon it makes your mags look bigger. doing the hubs same colour as the calipers will probably look over done.

could just be your battery terminals, take of the terminals just get a steel brush and run it over the neg and pos terminals on the battery to clean them. then put them back on, tighten them, make sure there is no movement and try start it, sounds as if its not making contact properly. if it was flat it would click slowly. if you decide to go through the hassle of removing the battery from the boot... it might pay to check that there is enough water inside to cover the electrodes by taking the caps of and shinning a torch down there. if they need topping up, go and buy some distilled water because normal water will stuff it. cheers 4drftn

walbro 255lph is fine for my car to max 300hp at wheels

i would like to get my ecu looked at as it has a couple of errors showing and being a microtech it tends to scare tuners/people. i recently rang JDS but they told me to see the people at pro auto as he is a wizz when it comes to many ecu's apparently. also just general turbo repaires/inspection of vacuum lines and tests for boost leaks etc. got an idle problem that i have done/checked/replaced many things myself to fix but have had no luck thus far. may just be something very simple, may just be one of the errors showing on my ecu???. someone recommended to give howles or hals automotive a try... would you recommend them yourself (if open on the weekends). cheers

will a side indicator plug work?

im looking for a workshop that are good with turbo skylines that are opened on a weekend (if any) that are recommended, iv tried pro auto but they arnt avaliable on weekends. some workshops will not attempt the work i require and direct me to pro auto... cheers 4drftn

superbad

is there two wires? cut the plug off and twitch the wires together or use the spade connectors so you can remove them when ever you like. it shouldnt matter which two wires you disconnect because if i can remember correctly they are both power wires (no earth -) and just need a current flowing through them.

how did you find out the ignitor pack plug was loose? did you take it to a mechanic?

could be center bearing as said above, my commodore did a very similar thing, get it fixed or atleast looked at. locked diffs make the same sorta sound...