Dorifta

not right section but u should use egocouriers, sent a cooler from melbourne to nsw for 16.50 took 2 days and they pickp and deliver for same price

saw this on skylinesowners.com and wondering if anyone has done it before to give me an idea of the time involved. Looks like a solid days work for the experienced. I cant wait to do it to increase throttlle response which all front mounts suffer from, Whats the verdict http:/www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70143http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70143 how do u post pics, I select add image and it asks for the url of the image

would be great when clicking on topics that it would change colour so u know where u have been for reference and a time saving function, just like normal internet browsing,, and how do u post photos in links, I can only seem to post pic from a webpage

what car did it come off,, how come ur selling turbo

thats funny, I was meant to buy that kit, justjaps kit has 2 pipes,

I dont know the precise techniques, there are group called leatherman I think,, or dash repair, most automotive places will have a local repairer u can get in touch with, will cost 50 bucks or so but, you will be Extremely amazed at what magicians these guys are.. I have seen older cars with hundereds of cracks on dash repaired whilst still on the car.. once they have finished it looks brand new,

try wiggling the dizzy harness, its a common problem on many cars, if not, there are procedures to get the fault codes of the ecu which would have logged a code if a problem occurs. dont think u have obd, older cars usually require a pin to placed into a harness and the the flashing code will display on the dash, go for the workshop manual on importworkshop.com or allcarmanuals.com

rebuild or custom build one, not too hard if u are keen, go to jaycar and copy ur original

I am a mechanic and believe getiing oil analysed is extremely anal and time wasting. If you have a problem and are trying to diagnose, ie , some type of failure, fair enough, Money is better off spent on an extra oil change or two

dont think so, i believe it would weaken the structure, especially when the exhast is hanging off there and studs in there, the insides yes, but i doubt anyone would would do it , u could only get 1 mm or 2 and that barely make any difference. I personally wouldnt go there,, but i could be wrong,, ur better of doing the insides of the housing

looking at buying z32 for my 33 25det, whats the verdict on them, does the z32 start the r33 straight up, or does it require initial programmming

can be many things, usually associated with atmo venting bovs

never trust a factory boost gauge

if it aint broke dont fix it, seems to be the qoute for this and many other issues

I have rda on my 33, i would reccommend dba due to the fact that they paint the non pad surface area, all rdas will rust in this area and dont look the best from close up Only other difference is that rda slots go all the way to the end of the rotor, where dba slots stop short of the end of the rotor, not very significant in my opinion

yeh bit late, but u could get 3 alarms supplied and fitted for 900, 3 times the protection

importworkshop.com has it all for free

First step for a misfire on a rb engine is to lower the spark plug gap if the car is boosted or has induction or exhaust mods. simply by replacing coils and plugs wont do a thing, unless of course there faulty, always replace the cheapest component first you need to lower the gap to around .8 due to increased turbulence in the combustion chamber

never heard of it, are those bolts being torqued up or by hand, Ive done many on rb engines and never felt the need to replace the bolt, i tension by hand with loctite using original bolt, Is sounding like the brand new replacement bolt isn't up to the original spec.

if oxy is ok, your air flow meter or fuel mixtures are way out or even injectors, u have an aftermarket rom so start fiddling with fuel, then try air

skylines dont have clutch cables, they are ancient, u need a new slave cylinder

does this catch can with bracket bolt in to a specific oem spot without removing anything

first start with idle issues is ti clean and adjust the iac valve, beacuase urs picks up with heat, I would also earth out the temp sensor when cold as thats the only difference in ecu signals between hot and cold

175 is excellent, mine were in the 150 to 160 range. Its not so much the amount of compression u have, but the relativitey between cylinders that matters

coilpacks misfire, they dont cough, coughing, hesitation and pauses in acceleration is usually always a air flow meter