DAMQIK GTS-T

Can Anyone Help?? I need the Flywheel and clutch torque settings for a r33 gtst Regards Damqik

I also have just blown my clutch in a big way, and will be putting in a patrol daken ex Heavy Duty clutch they are $270 from auto one Maroochydore and the part number is R173N Regards Damqik

then goto 220 lol

you should of gone to 120 they stop chasing after that.

the 4 door's have a flush boot as you discribed

I have been following these since the first, Cant wait for no4

I made up my own from 3mm black plastic

It doesn’t change the maps but it dose change the computers range it will vary the map (within the ecu's factory range) resetting, erases the lean cruise data that the ecu learns which is dependant on driving style and it puts more advance into the motor because it hasn’t detected any knocks (pinging) yet. It also run's fuelling more aggressively. A few hours of driving will pretty much set the ecu as its going to be and from that point its adjustments will only be slight. Hence resetting dose make a difference to power and economy. A reset should be preformed after any mod, fuel filter change, plugs, exhaust or whatever as the tolerances in which the car is running in have changed. Regards Damqik

Hey guys, I have a copy if the Bathurst races of 1990 91 and 92 in Div X format on Cd Its the full races minus Ads from the tv station. If anyone wants a copy PM or email me and I will tell how to get. Regards Damqik

Ok Thanks Guys I will test again tomorrow.

I have just put my air con in diags and get error code 25 (with the 5 flashing) the sun sensor, I have pulled it out of the top of the dash to find out it's only a photo diode, can anyone tell me what mvolts it should be outputting on a voltmetre? I get about 580 mv under a 50 watt light dose this sound right? as the diode dose not seem to be faulty what else could be causing this code? Thanks Damqik

There are alot of people that have been burnt by these people here on this fourm be very very careful and if you decide to buy get the car inspected by at least two different inspection stations with a full report in writing. My 2 cents

A quick check would be to peel back the rubber boot to the afm plugs and ground the black wire of your multimeter and with the engine running grab the red probe and check the output of the afm (useually the white wire) signal should be between 0.1 - 5.0 volts depending on revs and load. Regards Damqik

Not only that, if you leave the solenoid connected to the ecu and feed it 12v it will damage that circuit in the ecu. as it is switched on by a transister inside the ecu not a relay.

Also here is a link that may help http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/AFM_Notes.html

Ok I am one of the lucky that have managed to fix my Afm, I will point out that I only have one afm due to the fact I have a gts do you know which one of yours is playing up? anyway the problem I had sounded the same as yours the car would start running funny and would often stall ecu diags said Afm. so with nothing to lose I cut out the black rubber seal to the square lid of the afm under neath is a copper plate which I un soldered under that is a circuit board the problem is that the plug is directly soldered to this board and the solder joints have broken (prob due to vibration) I simply re soldered the joints of the circuit board to the plug re soldered the copper plate back and sealed the cover back in with silicon (the sensor safe type) and all is now good. (you must re seal the cover as there is some kind of air temp sensor on the mainboard in the AFM Good luck with yours Regards Damqik

We dont go for those back door shanagans here kryz

it just looks a little too rich to me (good cos most r32's I have seen run lean) note how the ecu has richened up the the fule for a second when boost came on at about 3200 rpm and then nealy over compsated for it. With regards to your question the right hand scale is A/F 11 is rich 14 would be too lean your car dosn't look to bad.

greygirl1976 theres a much easier way to remove the speed cut than that, simply put a switch on wire 53 to the ecu or cut it and tape it up. The Hicas can play up something shocking when in fault mode! or better still replace or remap the ecu.

This happens to a lot of skylines, one fix is to change lanes every 10 or so minutes and it wont get the problem the other is to go and get the hicas re calabrated (to sute the amount you moved the sensor ring) I only know of one shop that dose this and he is on the gold coast in Qld.

I have a R33 Series 1 and have been running 14psi for around 2 1/2 years now. The only problem I have had is the turbo sucked in and ate the rubber bung that the car yard put on to block the Bov return hose when fitting the atmo venting BOV. The same turbo is still on and going strong.

Time Date & Meeting place on the Coast ?

yep now where getting somewhere some of lambos questions answered Does those BOV that vent excess air when the throttle is shut affect the air fuel ratio? Yes because the ecu has accounted for that air as being already in the engine Since the throttle is shut the air getting into the engine should be the same even without the BOV. No because the would get in when the throttle is re opened and the throttle is never completely closed the motor needs air to burn the fuel Isn't the job of the BOV is to pretect the intake turbine from blow back pressure from shutting the throttle abruptly. Yes and to protect the turbo from spinning backwards in the case of a backfire Can we fix the Bov so that it comes before the AFM? Is it even possible? No the ecu would read the air eneering the engine twice causing a very over rich state I do not understand how the return BOV works. If it return the excess air back into the intake doesn't it defeat the purpose of having a bov to relief the back pressure from sudden shut of the throttle? It simply removes the pressure between the throttle butterfly and the turbo outlet on the compressor side of the turbo by putting that pressure on the inlet side between the turbo and the afm Anyone knows about those return BOV that vent gas back? and the above post also lambo I’m not quite sure what you mean by this question Lambo short of replacing the ecu the only fix for the problem is by adjusting the air bypass valve at the back of the inlet as I stated in my post on the first page.

No because then the ecu would read the same air twice making the engine even more richer.

GiJOr33 What ecu do you use? I use a GTS link