reaper1721

pics of bumper and turbo back exhaust as requested The cat is not pictured, but IS included This is how the exhaust looked when fitted:

Bump White Impul 18s sold. Only Meshies remaining.

updated with location....oops

Are you sure those 30 pics are actually of a 30? My eyes may be deceiving me, but I believe I can see a vct feed at the front right of the block, and a distinct lack of 'extra' block above the water pump.

Complete 3 inch turbo back exhaust for a 33 gtst. Bellmouth advance dump modified to fit a hotdog muffler in before the cat. Dump pipe has been painted in high temp exhaust paint (supposedly has ceramic in it) and wrapped. Cat is complete, not bashed out or "high flowed" Single straight through box muffler before the rear subframe. 3 inch twin pipes or cannon out the back, both will be provided. $300 neg. 3.5 inch cat back to suit 33 single hotdog muffler before rear subframe. Cannon at the rear. $150 firm. Brand new fibre glass gtr style front bar to suit 33 gts/gtst Sold the car before it was fitted. No holes have been drilled yet. $150 firm. Located Canberra, ACT. Pm, or Text me on Zero 415 055 80 Nine Cheers, Jono.

Complete 3 inch turbo back exhaust for a 33 gtst. Bellmouth advance dump modified to fit a hotdog muffler in before the cat. Dump pipe has been painted in high temp exhaust paint (supposedly has ceramic in it) and wrapped. Cat is complete, not bashed out or "high flowed" Single straight through box muffler before the rear subframe. 3 inch twin pipes or cannon out the back, both will be provided. $300 neg. 3.5 inch cat back to suit 33 single hotdog muffler before rear subframe. Cannon at the rear. $150 firm. Brand new fibre glass gtr style front bar to suit 33 gts/gtst Sold the car before it was fitted. No holes have been drilled yet. $150 firm. Pm, or Text me on Zero 415 055 80 Nine Cheers, Jono.

Bump

17 And 18 Inch Wheels For Sale. 8S ,8.5S ,9S Cheap. - Skylines Australia

17 And 18 Inch Wheels For Sale. 8S ,8.5S ,9S Cheap. - Skylines Australia Postage is an option...

SOLD

If you're that keen on 18s, have a look here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/404162-17-and-18-inch-wheels-for-sale-8s-85s-9s-cheap/page__st__20 PM me if you like what you see.

17s sold. Both sets of 18s still available.

The car is now registered until the 14th of January 2013. Still comes with road worthy cert if sold by the 20th.

Bump

Price drop. $8K

Ladies and gents. I am not sure If something like this has been posted before, I googled and had little success. Here is an inside look at r33 rb25det can cover baffles (likely also the same as r34 rb25det baffles) We will be refering back to this picture a few times... As can be seen on the baffle plate above, there is a nice smooth transition into the two drains back into the head. The bottom side is shown below. I assume they have been positioned on that side to drain the oil into an area which would be under a slight relative vacuum created by the rotating camshafts. I may check this theory later. Moving on, this bad boy here is to the best of my knowledge, there in an attempt to separate oil as a liquid from fumes. This is done by slowing the heavier, denser, liquid (as opposed to vapour) allowing it to fall back down onto the baffle plate and drain back down into the head. It is made up of a sheet of 'fly mesh' concertinered, bound by wire and soldered. It is held in place by two cast ridges in the alloy of the rocker cover, and a small indentation on the baffle plate. Here's that first pic again, Just to the right of the separater, is an indent to allow clearance for the throttle body. At the far left, the oil filler can be seen. And just to the right of the oil filler a 'wall' can be seen. This wall seals off the baffles so that oil/ oil fumes can only enter from the rear. Queue ms paint... Fun fact: These baffle plates are held in by mushroomed studs of alluminium that are part of the cam cover casting. If you choose to remove your plates for whatever reason (modification, make your own from scratch, cleaning etc.) it might pay off to use a dremel or similar to grind around the lip of the mushroom and leave as much of the stud intact as possible ready for the plates to be refit. Keen eyes may have noticed that I drilled mine off. This is because I will be modifying my covers, and if this, or any baffle plate is refit, I will be drilling, tapping and locktiting bolts in place. Now something that has one of my eyebrows raised, is the large cavity at the rear of the covers, and the odd shape of them that is not mirror from left cover to right or vice versa. In that area, sits another baffle plate bolted to the camshaft bearing caps, however, I wouldn't have thought they would need so much room above them. My only theory thus far, is that they are there to increase capacity as a bit of a bandaid fix for our beloved (or not) RBs problem of filling the head with oil. This theory being that under acceleration, much of the oil is pushed to the rear and is allowed to fill up the cavity instead of pushing up into the baffles through the rearward opening as well as the two drains. Would any knowledgeable person care to confirm this? Now this may beg the question "if these baffles are designed to stop oil from making its way through the breathers, then why does my catch can keep filling up with oil?" well, here's a practical answer to that question that everyone can try at home. Fill a large container/bath tub with water. Place your cam covers in and allow the water to fill above them. Those that have their witts about them may have now realised that baffles don't work very well when submerged.

Postage to Adelaide would be about $110 with e-go

Comes with ACT Road Worthy Certificate if sold by 20/10/12

Bump

Bump

Most internal gate screamers leak a bit. A piece of metal needs to be added to the turbo side of the exhaust flange to block flow between the waste gate and turbine outlet at the back of the turbo. The trouble with this as far as I am aware is that due to heat expansion, a perfect fit can be problematic. Also, when they are mass produced, differences in casting make it difficult to have a decent seal as one turbo may be 0.5mm smaller than another meaning to seal up on the larger, the smaller would not fit. Other than that, cut the waste gate pipe off the dump and seal up the hole. The waste gate pipe can then be cut further and routed off to where ever you want it. Make sense?

Converting a 33 to a mac strut is not an easy task. The strut top mounting points are quite far in compared to a mac strut. If just slapped together, I would not be surprised if double digit negative camber was the result. Not only this, but the pivot angle on the strut top would likely be quite extreme over the full travel of the suspension. And on another note, (this next section is theory on my part, I may be quite wrong) the chassis was designed for suspension that directs most of its force vertically. If converted to a mac strut, the angle that it would be on would put a fair amount of force inwards. At a minimum, a strut brace would need to be fitted. Triangulating to the firewall would probably be advisable. I believe the strut top mounting point is also too far forward to have any reasonable amount of positive caster. There is one skyline I know of which has been modded to a mac strut. Have you ever heard the name Stewy Bryant? or Nisskid? When the biddies see him, they be froffin... This is his website: http://inertia-ms.com/ Have a poke around, you should be able to find a few pics of what he has done. If you plan on having this car road registered, I suggest you stop now and rethink what you want to achieve. But, if it's just a drift hack...angle grinder, welder, maths and common sense, you'll be swearing at it in no time.

I know not what you mean, please do tell