StageaTypeS

Dave, I can't say 100% for R34 brakes but I am running the std stagea hoses on my car into R33GTST calipers no problems here, the lines are a bit short on the back, could do with another inch but there still ok. I believe other than the caliper mounting bracket on R34 calipers being slightly longer (To allow for larger disks) the calipers are pretty much the same. Not sure on bolt sizes for R34 calipers but even if they are different like on R33 calipers its not too much of a drama to get sorted. In terms of braided lines i believe Maltech make a set for a stagea which are ADR approved. I have considered getting a set but have kind of gotten lazy and haven't gotten around to looking at this yet. Let us know how you get on. Cheers

Yes they are a straight swap but you need to modify the bolts where the calipers bolt to the strut. The caliper is an M12 and on the strut it is an M10 or something like that. ( I can't remember but it is pretty straight forward) Take your car to any good mechanic with the calipers and explain what you want to do. My mechanic put it straight up onto a hoist had the front caliper off in 5 minutes checked the sizes no worries. Got the bolts modified and I picked the car up the next day. Only charged me $100 or so for the brake swap as part of the service. All the original lines abolt up and everything although you will need to remove the brass nipple from inside the caliper and slightly shorten the bolt that bolts to the caliper (nothing 30 seconds on a bench grinder won't fix)

Still reckon you should do the swap, heres why a) Never hurts to be able to stop quicker, and in reality doing the swap won't necessarily help you stop quicker but you will certainly notice a difference if you stop 5 times in a hurry or your doing a track day or towing a heavy load. Anything where brake fade is an issue. b) Admittedly there is a cost involved although most wreckers will sell a complete set of disks and calipers for a R33 for around $700, you may be able to get some pretty good ones. If you start with a reasonably good set you can replace bits as they wear out e.g. slotted disks for standard and better pads. I got virtually brand new Project MU HC+ pads in the calipers I got from a wrecker but I had already bought a full set of EBC pads. (the project MU ones are going straight on as soon as the EBCs wear out, saves me a few hundred in new pads) c) Increase in insurance premium????? They are Nissan Calipers sir see it says it on them. They came on the car like that. How is anyone ever going to prove you wrong? Even if they did pick up that they aren't standard which face it most people would never know. How many insurance companies employ Nissan Stagea Model experts?

Hey mate you should consider converting to R33 GTST brakes, I have done the conversion running rebuilt calipers front and rear, rda slotted rotors and ebc brake pads. Stops heaps better no fade and plenty of choices in regards of replacing parts when they wear out e.g. pads / rotors.

Is there any update on this? I would be keen to hear how the bumper has turned out and see some pics as I am in the market for one.

Yeah mate would love to see some photos of how the car is sitting expecially with your clearance on the rear guards. Cheers Justin

I dunno how much you would actually gain from just installing an Emanage. I ad the following initial mods and then instaled the Emanage S2 Stagea Neo 3" fujitsubo Front Pipe and Catback 3" Metal Cat Trust Front mount Trust Blow Off Valve Trust Pod All that equaled 163awkw on the dyno. (Remembering that a s2 neo is quoted at 206kw as factory although this is measured at the fly i believe) Install Emanage and Gizzmo ebc hey presto 203kw on 12 pounds of boost, plus the emanage removes the 2 stage boost the stageas have so full boost all the time

Mate, do the ECU no question, I have an S2 stagea and with mild mods had it dynoed at 163kw. Had an Emanage Ultimate and a Gizzmo EBC fitted and am now doing 203kw at the wheels best money I ever spent plus I reckon I get close to 100ks extra out of a tank. Have a look in the ECU and tuning discussion. I did all the suspension first e.g. Coilovers / bushes and although i love the way it handles It certainly didn't give me the same thrill as 40kw. Also you may want to think about this when your replacing suspension especially with sportier stuff you may find you have to replace anything with significant wear e.g. bushes and so on as the added strain of sportier suspension plus the change to your driving (You naturally drive a sporty handling car faster imo) will force you to replace these parts else they will wear pretty quick. My 2 cents anyway. (Wish I had some cash at the moment for some new mods)

Hey all just thought I would add my thoughts after doing a R33 brake swap. My swap consisted of - New RDA rotors all round Freshly rebuilt front and rear calipers. EBC redstuff Brake pads all around The swap is pretty straight forward but you need to consider the following. The bolt holes in the R33 caliper and the mounting bracket on the S2 Stag are different sizes. To solve this and please don't shoot the messenger as I am not in any mechanical and I had all this work done for me. I believe my mechanic took a large diameter bolt (M12 possibly can't remember) and then machined down half of it and rethreaded it so that the caliper and bracket could be bolted together. Seems to work anyhow and the calipers still on there Had to remove the brass nipple inside the caliper. Just screwed a screw into this and then used a set of pliers and the nipple just pulls out no problems. The rear brake lines are quite short they only just reach the R33 rear calipers as they bolt up to a different spot to the original calipers. Seem to be OK though. My first impressions of the brakes wasn't great, there is certainly more pedal travel I think than with the original brake setup. But saying that now I am used to it I kind of like the travel as you can be more precise when braking. But the travel has no impact on abrupt stopping because when I stomp on the brake pedal it stops bloody quick. Also I don't know if anyone else is using EBC Redstuff pads but I wouldn't recommend them. My car squeaks like buggery everywhere unless the pads are really warm. I should have gone for more street style pads as these ones I think are probably better suited for track days and such, just my opinion anyways. Next thing I am going to do is look at a set of braided lines i have heard that they give a good result. I think I read on here somewhere that Maltech make a set for the Stagea. Has anyone used these or can anyone recommend a good supplier of Braided lines for the Stag? Cheers Justin

Man that looks awesome. Do you reckon you will get any rear rubbing with rims that wide? I am about to fit rims on my car and I would love to fit a set of fat alloys like that.

Well heres my 2 cents for what its worth. I have a S2 Stagea (Neo Motor) not sure what it dynos at as standard but I can report the following results. Initial Mods Fujisubo Legalis R frontpipe and Catback Hi Flow Metalcat Greddy Front mount Trust Pod Filter With these changes my car initally dynoed at about 163kw Then fitted Emanage Ultimate and Turbosmart Boost Tee Car dynoed at about 195KW Then on advice from tuner swapped out Boost tee for a gizzmo EBC to stabilise boost pressure as it was spiking (now running 12psi consistently) Car finally dynoed at 203kw (My dyno graph is on this site somewhere can't remember where will try and find it and put in a link) In my experience the most power was unlocked via the E-manage but you do need supporting mods in place first to be able to unlock the power. So if you want to make reasonable power e.g. 200+ awkw you will have to start with the necessities first anyway. (FYI I believe that for street use the std intercoolers are reasonable for up to 200kw, anything over this then they need replacing and if you are swapping ouit turbos then i would definitely replace it. )

I can highly recommend going for a E-manage Ultimate and field harness. Closest thing to a plug and play I can think of, plus you have the added bonus of just unplugging the thing if you need to turn your car back to normal for any reason. My car is pulling 203kw at the wheels with minimal mods and std turbo. You'll see my post on page 5 and uras (Trent) kindly placed a copy of my dyno tune up there also. Also have heard good things about nistune and apparently they can give a similar result but I have no direct experience with these, also not sure if these are available in Ireland. Cheers

Ooooh, whats custom carbons contact details? Where are they? I have been after one of these for ages been looking at importing a kit but its getting way too expensive.

Here is a couple of pics of my stag, I have just had it tuned and it is pulling 203kw at all 4 wheels and 360nm

Well I finally got my E-manage Ultimate fitted and tuned and I am over the moon with the result. The car is a S2 Stagea Type S with the following mods : Trust Front Mount, Trust Blow Off, Trust Pod Filter, Fujitsubo Cat Back and Front Pipe, Hi Flow Metal Cat, Gizzmo EBC and E-Manage Ultimate. Initial Dyno run to confirm the Base Line was 163kw atw and 278.9nm @ Std Boost Dyno Run after the Tune of the Emanage was 201kw atw and 365.7nm @ 11-12psi(I'll post the dyno sheets up as soon as I get a chance) The car has been totally transformed and is now starting to feel like a real sports car, really throws you back in the seat when accelerating hard. Can 't wait to take it for a long drive in the country. Trent at Status Tuning in Dandenong is responsible for the install and tune and I can't recommend him enough, good advice and a great result I'll definitely be going back there in the future.

Hi mate, do you have the rear plastic strut covers that the cargo blind sits in? How much would you want for them posted to melbourne. Regards J

Well all up it is costing the following - Emanage Ultimate $650 with harness Had a mate who bought one for an s14 and since sold the car (Also one of the reasons I bought it) Field harness $200 roundabouts from memory. The install and tune is costing me $650 So total spend is $1500 which from what I have heard some people spend is pretty reasonable I think especially given the flexibility I will have at the end. I am looking forward to the result and I'll post up the dyno reading after. Cheers

I am just about to get my computer fitted to my stagea S2 Type S Its a standard manual so I don't expect to have any of the dramas associated with the Autos. I still opted for an E-manage Ultimate though and I am going through Trent at URAS to get it tuned (He is the man in the know for all things e-manage if you search for emanage on here you will see he has a few threads) There were a number of reasons I opted for the E-manage over a Power FC namely - 1. While Power FCS are good they are pretty old technology now. 2. Dollar for dollar I don't think there is anything else offering as much tunability and flexibility 3. I want to be able to easily return my car to standard if required. 4. I like the option of having multiple tuning maps and a computer interface that the e-manage provides. I have additionally bought a field harness this plugs into the computer and then the e-manage harness is spliced into this leaving the std loom untouched so i shouldn't have any cop dramas as all is required is unplug the e-manage and plug the std harness back into the computer and the car is back as standard. I will post up the result of the tune when it is done next weekend. The only mods to date are a Greddy Blow off valve, Greddy front mount, Greddy Pod Filter and a Fujitsubo 3 inch cat back and front pipe. Justin

Nice Mate, do you get any rubbing with these rims on?, I am interested in fitting some 19 x 9.5 rims on my stag type s and am hoping to get away without rolling the guards. I have coilovers fitted so have a bit more inner guard room than you would with std shocks and springs. Thanks Justin

I have made a few upgrades to my car and now have a few std parts for sale. The car is a 99 model and had only done 58,000 kms when I replaced them. The parts all appear in to be in very good condition, Std Shocks and springs (The rears shocks have the fork bottom same as a GTR) $150 the lot. (SOLD) Standard S2 Intercooler no dents $100 Standard Cat Back exhaust Cat and Front pipe it appears to 2.5 inch whole way through. $100 I will also shortly have standard rotors and calipers front and rear. They rotors still look pretty good not much wear. The pads still have heaps of life too $200 the lot. Also have a set of Greddy Type S rear springs for a R33 GTR for sale, they are almost brand new. $100 I am in Melbourne and would prefer pickup due to the size of the parts. Hey guys the above parts are still for sale I am open to offers as I want to get rid of the parts.

Yeah the mods are simple all they need to do is machine down the outer edge of the rear billet strut tops as the stagea rear strut tops are smaller and oval in diameter. They also had to reposition the bolts slightly in more. If you take the rear stuts out and compare them against a gtr rear strut top you'll see exactly what I mean. I have heard the reason that stageas have smaller oval shaped rear strut tops is so that the rear strut towers don't intrude too much into the boot being that the stagea is a wagon and designed to carry loads in the back.

I am located in Altona in Melbourne. In terms of fitting the suspension I am not mechanical at all so a big part of the cost was paying for labour. I ended up using Pedders Suspension in Werribee. They did all of the modifications to the rear strut tops and fitted and aligned the new suspension, got a few bushes replaced and a subframe alignment kit installed at the same time. Then swapped out the rear springs some time later maybe a month as I wasn't happy with the ride. I got Trutrack suspension in they city to do this, they also supplied the Eibach springs. I would highly recommend Trutrack in future, heaps of good advice and they really know their stuff. If you were going to do the same thing yourself you can get the rear strut tops modified at any good engineering shop and at the same time I would swap out the rear springs as you have to take the strut tops off anyway. Eibach springs are pretty reasonable. I think they were about $300 from memory. Good Luck

Hey all, thought I would share my experience with my suspension mods. I must admit I embarked on my suspension upgrade before becoming familiar with Skylines australia and I wasn't aware of SK's kit. But saying that I am happy with what I have come up with and I have had a few comments from both the suspension shop that did my mods and mates as to how well my car rides so I am pretty happy. I chose to fit a set of Greddy Type S coilovers for a R33 GTR to my stagea. I had to get the rear strut tops slightly modified to fit, easy job for any good suspension shop. The only issue is the rear springs are progressive and this is no good for the rear of the stagea due to the weight. I swapped these springs out for a set of off the shelf eibach items 7.6kg in weight I think from memory. So basicly I have ended up with monotube 46mm diameter coilovers. 32 way adjustable damping, adjustable bases and spring perches. The spring rates are 8kg in the front and 7.6kg in the rear. It is firm but i don't find it uncomfortable and it is certainly not crashy like some setups in cars i have experienced in the past. All up this probably cost me $2500 but I had a couple of adjustments and I was paying for all the labour but if you were capabale of fitting this yourself I imagine you could do it easily for $2000. I've attached some pics, Hope this gives you guys a few ideas on whats possible.

Hey, Try a Fujitsubo Legalis-R I have a full system fitted to my Type S e.g. Front Pipe and Catback. They are so quiet can hardly hear the car running when standing outside it and it is very quiet on the motorway. It does have a really good sound though when you put your foot down a real deep growl without any annoying background drone that some other exhausts I have heard have. The other plus is they look almost factory. Tried to upload a pic but doesn't seem to be working at the moment.

Hey AndyD, If you are planning on making a copy of your kit I would definitely be interested. I am currently looking to source one from Yahoo Japan and to get what I want I am looking at close to $2000 by the time I get it landed in Melbourne. I imagine a locally produced kit would be alot cheaper as there is no freightage added to the price. Let me know if you are going to get some copies made and how much you think they will cost. Cheers Justin