gt-ahhh!

hello i just received the crushing news that i have no compression in #4 cylinder. this has come at a bad time financially (though i dont suppose there is ever a good time to blow a motor) and im trying to assess my options. im considering throwing in the towel and offloading the car as is, but im not quite sure how much i could get for it. ive seen figures ranging from $3000 to $8000. the car is a 93 R33 gtst, black, manual. its in pretty good nick, with 130000km. its got 9 months rego etc etc. some mods, has been well maintained, i recently had the brakes rebuilt and new fluid/pads, and the trans and diff oil replaced with good expensive stuff. alternatively, i could replace the motor for around $4-5k i guess. looking around for motors/packages at the moment. any help would be greatly appreciated. cheers, mitch

r33 s1 rb25 starter motor needed in sydney. unsure if its interchangable with an rb20 or 26. $100 will pay postage if req. cheers, mitch

hey mate, i tried to send you a pm, but i was wondering if you still had the rb25 starter motor?

local plumbing supplier my ass! more like your shithouse! local = your home. plumbing = the dunny. supplier = penthouse.

i bought one on ebay that was of a similar description. it was a very flat white colour, and had tiny bubbles in it everywhere. yes you will likely have to sand, primer, and paint it. also, the gel finish wont be close to your cars existing paint! theres a subject up the top of this sub-forum about nissan paint codes if you were after them.

its got 100mm ground clearance. the grass is a bit long which makes it appear lower than it really is! even so, 100mm isnt an awful lot, and hence i am extremely paranoid of speedhumps etc. i measured my exhaust at 70mm lol. it often scrapes on schluthumps.

so i finally got around to replacing the front bar on my 33. im pretty happy with how it looks, though the guy who did the work dragged it out for more than two weeks. for a $275 item off ebay (+p/h) i cant really complain! for those interested, i got the indicators from just jap, i think theyre actually a 180sx side indicator. they blink a bit quicker than normal but its a small price to pay!

hello my greddy profec b ii ebc reads around -79 (-7.9psi) when the car idles properly ive read on a couple of topics that it should be a bit more than this. -8.5 or so? do you think this is possibly a vacuum leak or similar? car is modified r33 rb25det. i am having idle/stalling problems as well, but im hoping its the aac valve since ive already tried most other things. im just not brave enough to try cleaning it, its awfully hard to get at on my aftermarket plenum. i also suspect my bov may be leaking, is there an easy way to test this? or should i just fork out and get it sorted on the dyno.. thanks for any input

"Saw on the EBC my vac reading is a bit low, so I figured there's a vacuum leak somewhere." what is low? where should it supposed to be at idle? my greddy profec b ii sits around -70 (7 psi) at idle.

when you went to wind down the window it would fall down into the door section, unless you held it very firmly on its way down! the same thing would happen on the way up. and then, would you believe it... it fixed itself and has been working fine for more than 6 months now! i imagine it fell off its rail, or whatever its mounted on. bizarre...

i suppose any car has the potential to be unreliable. as far as imports go, skylines have a very good reputation. i often hear them referred to as being 'bulletproof', though my experience would seem to disprove this. i've had a 1993 R33 GTS25T for a bit over two years now and the following things have broken/need to be replaced: -engine x 2 -turbo -clutch -shocks/bushes (basically a complete susp overhaul) -manifold studs -battery -wheel bearings -O2 sensor -the passenger window fell off somehow -ignition coilpacks -idle control valve (hopefully just needs to be cleaned) as you can probably imagine, this has cost $10000+ (emphasis on the +) to date, a lot of it was replaced with upgraded parts. in defence of the car, one of the engines and the turbo were taken out when an oil hose blew off and dumped all the oil. so thats just plain unlucky i suppose. the rest is predominatly due to the car being 15 years old, and can happen to any car! in amongst that ive replaced/upgraded: -intake (filter, airflow meter, piping, intercooler, intake manifold) -fuel system (injectors, pump, filter) -electronics (ecu, boost controller, turbo timer) but that sort of nonsense isnt entirely necessary lol on a positive note, at least the gearbox and diff etc have survived thus far!

surging you should be able to feel with your ass in the seat lol. mine was very noticeable. as for vacuum leaks, there is a way to check this if you have a compressor and airgun. firstly, remove the afm and block the hose with something like a can of baked beans, needs to be a good seal, and tighten the hose clamp onto the can. once youve done this, you can remove a vacuum line around the intake manifold. ive got an aftermarket greddy manifold, and i found the easiest was the one for the fuel pressure regulator, at the front of the fuel rail. stick the airgun onto this tube, get a mate in the car to turn the ignition on and open the throttle, then you can pressurise the whole intake system, and your mate can check the "boost pressure" from inside the car to make sure you dont overboost it. you should be able to hear any vacuum leaks fairly easily, because air will be fkn flying out of them lol. alternatively, you can start the engine and spray water on all the joints etc. and if its leaking supposedly the revs will drop when you spray a leak. but i reckon the airgun method is much more effective.

are you having any problems with surging? believe it or not, i suddenly got bad surging/economy with my r33, was getting 280km to 45L... disconnected the O2 sensor and now i get 360km to 45L.

+1 for causing an accident. what morons. you should have 'panicked' and violently swerved into them lol that said, sure beats the inconvenience of being pulled over.

check your wastegate actuator. i had to wind several turns onto mine before it hit any kind of reasonable boost.

you could get 2 z32s for a lot less than that...

having some drivability problems, running rich off boost, and idling poorly. worst thing is, the problem comes and goes, so im having trouble pinning it down. at times, the car will drive fine for extended periods, and other times it nearly stalls and has great trouble at low rpm off boost. i have tried all the obvious things, replaced 02 sensor, vac leaks, clean afm, plugs, coilpacks, reset ecu. havent cleaned the "aac valve" though, not really sure what it is, or where it is on my aftermarket plenum. i thought id check for loose electrical connections, since that would partially explain why the problem comes and goes. found a few things. what on earth are these? the arrow is pointing at an electrical socket which is wired back to the crank angle sensor i believe. what does this port do exactly? the connection was loose, and i could slide it on and off without resistance so i cable tied it for now. is this the aac valve? the electrical socket on the base of this was also very loose, well actually it was unclipped. what effect would that have? i figure this is a throttle position sensor of some form... but its not there! theres a plug coming out the top, and then this empty socket. im not overly worried since it has always been like that, and the problems only appeared a few weeks ago. thanks for any light anyone can shed. also, saw some nice 'lines at la perouse last night.

you should have a look at federal, 595s i think they are. pretty good rap they seem to be getting, and good value. i use the street version.

i dare say that the increased premium has little to do with the cost of the modifications. after all, the agreed value of the car doesnt go up if you modify it. its probably more to do with the likelihood of the car being involved in an accident. ie: if you have a bov, exhaust, aftermarket ecu etc. its pretty obvious (to an insurance company) that you are a hoon/street racer, and more likely to be involved in an acco.

my mates gf was paying $1600 or something for a lancer that would struggle to be worth $3000. lol at women.

i dont even bother mate. i dont feel comprehensive is worth the money. by my calculations, comprehensive is the best part of $3k for me, for a $15k car. so in 5 years ive paid for the car. not to mention the excess, $2k+... so really if i were to write it off id only get $13k. now in effect im paying for the car in only 4 years. ridiculous. this is ignoring the high probability that if i wrote it off: -id probably have been doing something silly, and so they may not cover me. -the modifications would be considered unroadworthy and they may not cover me. alternatively i could pay $475 for third party. but i chose to pay $695 to inc. fire and theft. now obviously im going to be way ahead if i keep it on the black stuff. ive had it for more than two years now, so im about $4500 ahead already. its all a big gamble. but also in my favour, if i were to write it off, i still own it and can wreck it and get a few thousand back.

well since i am in fact checking for BOOST leaks by compressing the system, it is well possible that the open hose of which i speak does not operate on vacuum. very interesting. i tried the carby cleaner with the engine running and didnt find anything. but as soon as i compressed the system i found leaks instantly, it was much easier i thought. and has the benefit of testing the hoses/clamps under say 20psi, so you know they will hold on the road. each to his own. thanks for your explanation of the charcoal cannister. mines blocked off now though lol.

i disagree. im not entirely sure where its supposed to go, though i have heard something about it going to the fuel tank? you are possibly correct about that, though in theory its the same as having a hole in your plenum. but small amount of air.... when i boosted the intake system up with a compressor the air was flying out of that "small tube". it was VERY loud, and drained the system (inc. a/m fmic) of air in approx. 10 seconds. that to me seems like a considerable loss of air which the engine/turbo has to overcome. not to mention that the air has passed the afm (while on boost), but isnt making it to combustion.

sorry 137.9c

well theres really only two choices isnt there? v power or bp ultimate. i wouldnt let anything else near my car when it can be avoided. that said, i was outraged to pay $137.9 for ultimate today. in a metro area. what a joke. crude is $45 a barrel for fox sake!