R.3.2.G.T.R

hit it with rust guard to stop it spreading further, perhaps u can touch up the spot afterwards

what condition are the trims in?

also to check fuel pressure, all u need is the fuel gauge T pieced into the existing fuel lines running into the engine bay, not very expensive at all

i dont believe zirconia's can be replaced with titania 02 sensors, one is voltage and other resistance based

still sounds like a fuse problem, did u check all the fuses in the fuse compartment? i think hazard circuit is a lil different to indicators but not a 100% on that

was that 2deg rear on each side or total?

alright, c-collars installed and every bolt that i could get to tightened up with torque wrench, will try and squeeze in an alignment tmrw lunch-time, hopefully last one for a while and it fixes the wiggle

if the bush has fallen off, shifter should come out easy, how hard was it getting it in, in the first place? was it specifc kit for 33?

so why not raise the car a little? would be easier to do than replacing the cv joints

yeah i couldnt find any info on how the bracket is located other than the single bolt and looking at other ppl's install pics, it appears to be the same no paint or wear marks on the bracket and its still relatively tight the outer end is now bush replacing the factory ball joint, i also checked both wheels for any movement but it was solid, its odd that only now the subframe is shifting or perhaps it was happening previoulsy but not felt due to worn ball joints is lowering subframe just a matter of raising the car to a suitable height with the wheels sitting on something and undoing the bolts in front and back till the end of the thread?

thanks Duncan, I believe u have nailed down the issue, re-checked all bolts and tried to see if any bushes are worn and leaky without much luck What I did find is that one of the elimination kit brackets is not bolted "square on" like the other side, although not loose might under load be moving from not being aligned squarely I'll fit the subframe collars and set n torque the bracket correctly on the wknd before alignment with specs listed earlier One thing I don't get as kit came without instructions is, other than the bracket bolt being done very tightly, what will stop the bracket from tilting from load, better pic of one side below

thanks for the replies guys no tie rod ends left and will check all arms tonights, coilover isnt leaking otherwise ill slap on the c-collars over the weekend and have it adjusted to -1mm on each side as suggested i have whiteline rear swaybar installed with new link bushes etc, that was done a while back will report back tonight after checking

wheels nuts torqued camber front and rear is identical but i didnt ask for that, running 18x10+15 rims so cambered as little as i could for it to lineup with the guards rear toe i asked for 0mm thinking it was better and didnt want it to contribute further to already cambered rear tyre wear

hi peeps, need some help sorting out my rear end on my 32R, can feel rear wiggling from side to side at around 60-70kms, on smooth road, no tramlining etc, worse in the wet few things done recently: all hicas bits removed completely and fitted with driftwork elimination kit wheel alignment done at jax blacktown - rear toe at 0mm both sides now before the hicas mods, this wasnt an issue, was running approx same camber at rear, not sure on toe i have subframe collars and not installed yet, could existing ones cause the issue? anything else i should be checking in the meantime tonight i will be double checking the wheel shake and coilovers (tein current set to middle of range) and all bolts in the vicinity tyres are month old, same all round and had wheel balanced when fitted, car is legal height and street driven anything wrong on my alignment sheet?

been able to isolate which side of the engine bay its happening? check hicas ecu plugs in the boot? i believe there is only one plug above the solenoid for the hicas, so no chance of mix up

got rear parcel shelf speaker covers?

front pipe sold cams price drop $450

pm sent

faaark, that's alot of dough for what u ended up with, sounds like a an expensive coffee table stand hope it gets sorted

got rear speaker cover?

after pair of rear speaker covers for r32

Pair of used falken azenis 255/40/18, approx 10,000 kms old These are quite good for dry grip and pretty good in the wet considering it's street spec semi slicks No punctures and pretty even wear Asking $200 for both picked up based near near parramatta

Price drop $140

not a gearbox or diff one by mistake? sump is def M12 x 1.25

Custom GTR Front Pipe twin 75mm to 80mm with no lip, measurement for internal diameter, very well made, in excellent nick, no scraps/dents, not equal length type would suit tomei/hpi dump pipes better due to no stepdown/lip as most other front pipes have smaller twin pipes entry was planning on keeping it for when i change out my hks split dumps to a tomei/hpi item but not happening anytime soon as a reference: blitz 70mm inlets and 80mm outlet hks 70mm inlets and 85mm outlet jjr 60mm inlets and 76mm outlet apexi 60mm inlets and 70mm outlet mines 70mm inlets and 80mm outlet trust 70mm inlets and 80mm outlet $350 firm pickup only (western sydney) Custom Tomei Poncam to suit R34 GTR 9.25mm lift approx. 270 degree duration Cams were custom made by Tomei for Tommy Kiara full R-Z 530PS engine package. The numbers on the cams are A2692N and A2692R. These are little too big for my current gtss turbo setup. I will provide buyer with additional info given by previous seller for setup. $500 pickup (western sydney) pm me