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RPMGTR

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Everything posted by RPMGTR

  1. You miss my point. Not saying it is magic, just that it works.. so fit one and move on to the next step. Once you have spent hours/days working out how it works., what then???? cheers
  2. Dont bother trying to measure what it does ...They just flat out work a treat!! Had plenty of Big horsepower cars with splitfires, CDI etc that miss when the boost is wound up...add a DLI and problem gone forever Anyone who says it doesn't work isn't making enough power to notice the difference or has some other problem. Never tried to work out what it does, don't really care to know... Maybe just some HKS magic in that gold box... cheers
  3. Herein lies the problem....... Are we racing dynos or cars?? For a few years now , the dyno (ours included) has said that the cammed cars make a slightly better power graph. However our experience has 'found' that the cars go FASTER with std cams on these little turbos. And its interesting when you reverse engineer these things (take them out) and don't immediately tell the owner. You get a response like "I don't know what you did but it feels great and I improved my PB".... So I guess at the end of the day its a little subjective hence the differences of opinion. cheers
  4. The PFC on RB25 uses 15 degrees as the idle ignition timing (20 degrees on RB26). The purpose of setting the 'base' timing is to ensure that the engine is getting the SAME timing as shown on the IGN map. So with the engine at warm idle, check the H/C to confirm the PFC is giving the engine 15 degs. Set the timing with a timing light (by moving the CAS) to the same 15 degs. This ensures the engine receives the same timing as we tell it to on the IGN map. We get heaps of supposedly 'tuned' cars come in with the base timing out by 2-10+ degrees. You can usually tell by the big on-boost ignition numbers. These engines dont need/like more than 40ish degs on cruise and are usually in the teens on boost. If you are well into the twenties on boost, usually the base is retarded and the engine is getting less than what the map says.........
  5. They are actually good for over 450kw@wheels !!
  6. Usually just the neutral switch in the gearbox not connected/working.....the ECU thinks the car is 'in gear' so VCT is enabled
  7. On a std car no, but once its modified they often like to stay advanced till higher up.
  8. Have to agree....the added air volume of the vac rail must dampen the signal or something. Its worth the effort to tap the runners.
  9. Tomei 260deg 10.8mm cams complete with Tomei lifter set suit R32/33 GTR. EC $750 Mines super response 252deg 10.05mm cams complete with Mines lifter set suit R34GTR EC $800
  10. Item:R32GTR crankshaft Condition: Good Price: $150 Location: Melbourne - pick up preferred Ideal for rebuild just add a collar....
  11. Nope, they are ceramic stockers..
  12. After a Power FC PRO to suit RB26DETT R32/33 GTR. Can trade for std PFC and cash, or purchase outright. cheers
  13. You will need to use Inconel studs or they will keep stretching forever..... cheers
  14. I chose 86mm as it leaves a little more rigidity in the block, and allows me to go up .5 or 1mm later if need be. Capacity is 2.93, but everyone rounds up don't they?? so 2.95 was closest. cheers, Ben
  15. Complete motor including turbos/plenum.....no loom.
  16. Hey guys, I really don't mind sharing the shortblock specs, as I'm fairly sure I've posted details on here a while back. Bore is 86mm Stroke is 84mm Rods are SR20 Its a liner/spacer-plate RB26 block (ala OS RB30), 20mm taller than std. cheers, Ben
  17. Hey Guys, I thought this post would stir some interest. Now, the 450@wheels top end is okay, but check the torque curve and compare it to other rb's. It makes like twice a normal rb between 2-4500! This is the area most gtr owners complain about. It is bizarre to drive, kinda like a quiet 6 litre n/a v12 that makes 600whp and revs to 9k.... I think we can get similiar improvements from the 2.6 as well. cheers, Ben
  18. Check out this engine for area under the curve. Goes like no other RB we have ever seen! Details: Capacity: 2.95L Turbos: twin low mounts std position internal gate Engine bay looks standard including factory airbox. Smooth 900rpm idle, 93db exhaust with cat Rev limit 9000rpm Peak torque 5500rpm Peak power 8000rpm Fuel: 98 0ctane No nos Boost: 20lbs Dyno run starts at 2600, finishes at @8000, stopped by 230kmh dyno speed limit. (R34GTR 5th gear) Sounds like a dream??? photoshop?? I can assure you it is for real! Hopefully there is more to come so stay tuned...
  19. These are a drop-in but use a reduced base circle- hence the need for the special lifters. If you use the std springs, rev limit of 8200 is recommended.
  20. Complete, std, perfect running R33GTR RB26. Pulled out of a very clean series 3 (going 3L) $4000
  21. Mines 252deg 10.08mm lift hi-response cams to suit R34GTR and Nur Set of 2 cams and 24 special lifters. As new $1100
  22. 1 x RB26 cylinder head fitted with Jun 1mm oversize valves. Fully race ported, modified combustion chambers, clearanced for 11.5mm cams etc. Guides, seats, seals etc all good. No cams or springs. Very little use, cleaned and ready to assemble. $2500 Melbourne pick-up No pics..If interested, come and see for yourself!
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