RPMGTR

Actually it has been consistantly good... Despite Troy's best efforts to spoil it for us !

Best we all support United's Premium 100 then. And time to lobby them for greater availability so they can pick up all the ex V-power racing customers. We use a lot of this fuel as an outlet is just up the road and it is just as good as the Shell product.

sorry, SOLD...

Yup, United 100 is good...

As spindly as they look, I've never actually seen one break. And we have done some silly things to them - 400rwkw and 8500rpm. I'm not sure if I recommend you try that though!

Forget about fuel, machining, fuel pumps, wah, wah, wah..... Lets clear up a fallicy here...THE ONE thing that breaks and melts engines is ignition/detonation!!! If the engine doesnt have enough fuel it wont make power or will stop. It only melts or breaks if you are using an overly rich mixture to dampen detonation and you then remove some of the fuel. If the timing is in the correct zone then you can remove some or all of the fuel without hurting anything except the performance. However, the real reason the cylinder that fails most is nearly always number 6 is quite simple really. The load is on the flywheel end of the crank. the CAS is on the opposite end. When under load, the crank winds up, effectively advancing the timing on the engine as you head towards the rear. So the rear cylinder gets the most timing as it is closest to the load. That IS why it most often fails. Throw more fuel at it if you wish, but it is not the answer. Retard it 10 degrees and you wont be able to hurt it no matter what you do to the a/f, but nor will it make much power. Finding that balance is the art of tuning. cheers

Sorry Guys, these are long gone!!

Standard GTR injectors are yellow. The Sard 700cc are light blue. cheers

Hey Richie, 2 X sets of N1 cams. These are known as a great mild cam upgrade for use with turbos like N1s, garrett -5s and -7s and HKS GTSS or 2530. They have higher lift and longer duration than regular RB26 cams. Being genuine they are also better quality than some of the cheaper aftermarket options. These are direct bolt in to R34 RB26 but please check with your mechanic about fitting them to R32 and R33 RB26 (they may fit, or you may require the use of an R34 CAS). Price is $400 a pair postage I estimate at $25 for most of aus. Bargain cam upgrade! Many cluey workshops have been using N1 cams with good success for years now. Sorry to burst your bubble, but the 34N1 (Nur) cams are same lift, duration. L.C. as standard R34. The R32/33 N1's had the exhaust L.C. retarded 5 degs but the lobes were the same. However, they are still one of the best cam choices for RB26. cheers.

They are quite soft by design as they are intended to be used as plumbed-back. On an engine with good vacuum, they will be open at idle and cruise. cheers

R32/33/34GTR AFM's all have the same part number. We have found them to be interchangeable. cheers

I'd like to make a few things clear here. Racepace did build this engine. In 2005. We did not install it and we haven't seen it since 2005. It is now onto its 3rd owner who stated it was running perfectly when he purchased the R33GTR that was subsequently written off in an accident. Later it gets installed into a 32GTR and seizes after 20mins. Now I'm not pointing fingers at all, but doesn't this sound just a little strange?? We absolutely stand by/warrant our workmanship but it is made extremely hard when you have no control over what happens to your engines years after they are put into service. We have built hundreds of RB's that see all sorts of use/abuse, so I'm very sorry to hear of this engines demise. Hope it all works out for you Ali. cheers, Ben

Hahaha, So can I, but some things seem inevitable.... We might as well get comfy and enjoy the show.

So true! No need to bash the guy for doing something a little different now... And I'm a big fan of twins on GTR's with the way current EPA/regs are. But, the 3540 should go really well when its sorted. These turbos seem to have really good response for the power they make. Good luck with it.

Go on, do it, do do do it!! I'd be interested to hear the results.

OEM Nissan FTW. Never ever had a problem with one. But Aftermarket belts? (Blue ones in particular) well now thats a whole other story.....

You can break ANY oil pump in an RB if you try hard enough! We have broken them all... Jun, Tomei, HKS, N1, and standard ones too. 99.5% of the time it's due to the loose nut behind the wheel. If you continually smash it on to the rev-limiter and it will break the pump. If you are unsure why it broke (as no-one ever thrashes their new engines!), have a look at the drive faces inside the gear. Tell-tale sign is wear on the driveside AND non driveside of the gear....thats what the rev-limiter/launch control does! cheers

The OS Giken RB30 rod must be a similiar 135ish length to need a spacer plate of around 30mm. cheers

Exactly....it makes 10+psi @ 2500, hence the big torque early. Some more details: Crank is a custom billet 12 counterbalance job. Don't try to rev those RB30 cranks too high! Rods are SR20. Don't sweat the R/S ratio. 1.5-1.65 has proven to be ideal/desirable for a 4 valver in the 1-9000rpm range. Modern materials and rod/piston designs mean longevity is not an issue, and shorter rod is a stronger,lighter rod. Pistons are custom. Camshafts are Nissan OEM. Turbos are currently Garrett -5's, (about to make way for a very slightly bigger set). We have now have it tuned at 24lb and it makes 468kw with plenty more through the mid-range. I'll post a new dynograph when I get a chance. Lots of sneaky tricks in this one. I probably shouldn't have sold it after all..... cheers,

We have actually had to do this several times.....The results are heart-breaking..... Examples 360kw HKS 2530 equipped GTR- Remove stainless hks manifolds because they were cracked and replace with stock items. - Result: Identical dynograph and power 375kw Garrett -5 equipped GTR - Remove standard manifold and dumps, replace with Tomei items. - Result: Absolutely identical dynograph and power. These examples are great because the ONLY change was the items mentioned nothing else. The tunes were also subsequently tickled but showed the same results. Surely it can't be....they look sooo nice.

ALL GTR's 32,33,34 are ceramic, the ONLY exceptions are 32,33,34 N1 and 34 Nur. Easy-Peasy!!

Although the basics seem rather..well... basic! However, they are very important as they are the foundation of a good tune. Some of the wild variations we are seeing in tuning numbers are in part due to the basics being incorrect. You can not have a useful comparison unless comparing apples and apples. All engine/turbo set ups do have different characteristics (so need different numbers to make them perform best) But you cannot hope to see the differences unless your basic set-up is correct and consistent. Anyway, enough from me.... back to looking at your tunes

"At the moment at full load I'm running 15 degrees base + 18 on the laptop so 33 degrees total." Um no..... You are running 18 degrees at full load which is about ballpark correct. 15 degrees is what the PFC feeds the engine at warm idle. This is from a idle map activated by the tps being below .5v Once tps value is >.5v, which basically tells the ECU that we are now off idle, it reverts to the main ign map. This is why you can change the values in the first 3 x 3 cells and get no change in the idle timing. So if you correctly set your 'base' timing to 15 degs (also checking on the H/C that is what timing is being delivered), then you are ensuring that the values you use in the timing map IS what the engine receives. Hope that helps.

" I can hear rattle ( as in I know what it sounds like) and I have made it rattle so i know where she absolute boundries are. i and will stay well away form them." Rattle is easy to hear. It's the insidious tick,tick that you/sensor can't easily hear that slowly eats away at the engine. It sometimes shows up as an extra 10-15 on the knock count, but also sometimes it doesn't. cheers

You guys need to be very careful tuning using only the knock sensor. Although they are 'usually' quite good, we get many, many cars where they are asleep on the job. We can often audibly hear knock way before the sensor picks up anything. So best to double check before relying on the snsor alone. cheers.