JonnoHR31

dont go thermos, keep the stocker clutch fan and shroud, much better and all fits nicely if you use 31 mounts. also going from your profile yours is a s3 auto, in which case your stock auto gbox xmember will bolt up the 25 box no worries. will need a 33/vlt yoke on a manual tailshaft or a custom single piece

have a look at the rb20det conversion guide on www.r31skylineclub.com its very similar

just to give you an idea my 3076 hits full boost (19psi) around 3600-3800 depending on load. may sound laggy but it really isnt once you drive it. down low i actually prefer it to the stock turbo. mynes on stock manifold with internal gate btw, so with a good manifold and external gate you should decent boost even earlier

not unless the rocket switch controls a little man in the engine bay who can turn the knob for you

is a puller 2 flathead screwdrivers?

probs blowing out spark. buy some new plugs and gap them down a bit until it doesnt do it anymore

check the sticker and part number on it. the z32 that people upgrade to has an orange sticker heres a pic http://www.sillbeer.com/images/engine/bosch-z32afm-label.jpg

just T it into the bov or boost gauge line on the plenum, it works fine

ring auto clutch in osborne park. got one of his clutches behind my 25, feals like standard and takes anything stock internals can throw at it for around $300-350 with machined flywheel, thrust bearing and spigot bush

afaik 26's are sposed to be 20 degrees at idle, not 15 like other rb's. here are my fuel and timing maps, tis a rb25 with gt30. tuned by a reputable tuner in perth

yep o2 trims fuel when you stay in the same load cell for a prolonged period. when tuning light load stuff you must turn off the o2 sensor to get the afr's right

try removing the boost controller completely and hook the actuator up directly to manifold pressure and see how it goes

stock internals are good for around 260-300rwkw, depending on condition, dyno etc. sometimes more but then it becomes a question of how long it'll last. have a look at your afm and see what colour sticker it has on it. green is stock silvertop/s1 25, pink is stock s2 25, ornage is z32 airflow meter and yellow is q45. z32 afm would be fine for what your after. as for injectors, if you dont plan on ever building the motor then some nismo 555s will do nicely

sounds like just your overflow was empty? what level was the radiator at? aslong as it had atleast a couple litres in there the gauge should be accurate

use the loom to match the motor. when you buy an engine package the loom should still be all hooked up, drop it in the car like that and feed the loom through the passenger side guard area into the passenger footwell.

have a look at the wiring. if they're the same colour with the same plug it should work fine

from memory my 25 tps read .43v when closed. try adjusting it

tune on the stock ecu will be fine. tis a bit rich but its fine. its fairly straight forward. trickiest part is usually the wiring, but theres only a few wires. theres a guide on www.r31skylineclub.com somewhere

as said per tank is fairly meaningless. you could be running it down to 1L left or you could be filling up with 20L left. i get around 14-15L/100km driving only on weekends with mostly short, agressive drives

just unplug the injector loom, one of the 2 grey plugs at the front of the fuel rail

.8 bar

it can give you more boost than the stock turbos can handle. think i highest i ever saw was around 18psi with a 25 turbo and actuator. but that much boost with a stock turbo is stupid

set your fuel pressure to 43psi. the injector settings should be set to match the injectors, eg stockers should be 100% and 0 correction. then change the fuel map to get the afr's right. start rich go from there. if you dont know what your doing, dont touch it

someone could have cut the speed wire from the speedo to the ecu, this would get rid of the speed cut. from memory its a yellow wire with a black trace

what makes you say it was leaning out? with the stock ecu the only way to lean it out (as long as all sensors etc are working properly) is to max the injectors, once you start flowing more air than standard the ecu starts adding more fuel, to the point where afr's are around 10.5:1, hardly lean if your worried about it being unsafe, fit the turbo and leave the gate open so you have no boost until it gets tuned