JonnoHR31

signed #49 now just need to get some e85 at the bowsers over here

tied a couple knots in myne to shorten it. still working fine 3 years later

give mtq a call in malaga. www.mtqes.com.au i think

get a flange welded onto your cooler piping and mount your bov behind one of the headlights (i have myne on the drivers side) and run the recirc pipe behind the cooler and back up with the piping into the intake pipe. atmo bovs and afm's dont go together too well most of the time

what ecu are you using?

spike in the midrange wont hurt the turbos, still flowing a lot less air than they are at peak power. try turning the set gain down a bit, this is the pressure the solenoid lets the actuator see boost (not a %, its a set pressure), if its too close to your target boost the actuator wont open in time to hold boost steady and it'll spike. usually 2-3psi below target boost works well but try it really low at first and see if your spike goes away, then slowly turn it up until its right

what do you mean number 1 is selected? the first afm is stocker 33, z32 is the 3rd one, altho if you had those mixed up it would make the car run lean, not rich. if your injectors are 500cc and your correction is at 95% then thats a problem. correction needs to be figured out by diving the standard size by the new size. 370/500 = .74 or 74% which would be almost exactly what you ended up with when you set the temporary correction to .800. to have a correction of 95% your injectors would have to be flowing 390cc. if yours are bigger than this then take your car back to whoever set it up like that and get them to fix it.

unless someones done some funky shit every power fc's setting should be 1.00 in both colums at 80C. the next one down from that is 50C and the standard pfc settings (RB20 and 25) for that are 1.094 at 1792 (~P3) load and 1.156 at 8960 (~P13) load if you have trouble with your car reaching 80C then try lowering the values for 50C but leave 80 at 1.00

you cant change the temp values, only the correction at those temps the next one below 80 is 50, i've changed myne to 1.00 at 50 (car never gets to 80) and it drives perfectly. just dont thrash it until its close to full temp. what temp does your car run at? the power fc interpolates between the temps, meaning if it has 1.00 at 80C and 1.30 at 50C then it'll be 1.20 at 60C and 1.10 at 70C etc. if your cars getting up to 78 it'll be so close to 1.00 it wont make any noticeable difference

if its only 1psi more just turn the knob from the main screen whilst in hi boost mode and increase the value a couple % then press the knob. load it up and watch the boost gauge, if its too much drop it back a %, if its not enough keep turning it up. gain adjusts how hard it comes onto boost, too much and it'll spike. set gain is how much boost is needed before the solenoid lets the actuator see any pressure, best to have it set 2-4psi below your target boost, depending on how well your wastegate controls boost. personally i'd just leave it how it is until you get new turbos

if he already has a proper garrett housing and dump to suit that'd be a step backwards. but it all depends on what he has

thats right, it means it wont stop adding fuel for cold enrichment until you get over 80C. most cars should be seeing over 80 at full temp all the time

what housing was on it before? is it a proper 3071 or a "bolt on" 3071? they're different and cant be interchanged

completely different. jack up the back of your car, put it in gear and let it idle, have a look under to see if the tailshaft is spinning, if it is, see if your halfshafts are spinning.

NA compression is fine for turbo. use the standard vlt setup as said. dont use a rb25 turbo, would need to rotate housings and then make a custom dump and probably oil and water lines too. stock vlt turbo bolts up

see what inj duty you get at peak power under high load on a cold night, if doesnt max them then it'll be alright. i was just touching 100% on my stock injectors on freezing mornings at only 185rwkw

my pinout diagram shows it as pin 18 aswell. 3rd from the bolt in the bottom row on the left looking at it from the ecu side with the bit that sticks out round the bolt pointing up

yep i only use bp nowdays, after going through a few bad batches of caltex. if you had your car tuned and its knocking (not on limiter), take it back and get them to fix it, you payed for a tune, if its still knocking then they havent finished it yet. fuel cut limiter does not create a lean and dangerous combustion, theres no combustion at all, due to there being no fuel. the ecu does not fire the injector at all when its cutting that cylinder. even if a little fuel made its way in there from a previous injection it would not be anywhere near enough to ignite. if the motor is actually knocking on limiter its from a cylinder thats firing normally, not one thats being cut. like i said before, if your worried about knock readings on limiter, take some timing out temporarily and see what happens.

220-240rwkw out of a stock turbo is stupidly innacurate. your dyno is just plain wrong if its spitting out figures like that with a stock turbo, especially with a stock ecu as said 12:1 is ideal under full load for a turbo car

on a 20 22psi will be fine, wont be flowing quiet as much as a 25. i'm running myne at 22psi atm on a 25, loves it

if you have datalogit and a wideband then all you need now is the knowledge and you can tune the car yourself. set the injector % to suit the injectors you have and leave all the airflow voltages at 100% then go into your fuel map and add plenty of fuel in every cell below p10. then start logging with your wideband, best way is to just log your aux inputs and advanced, dont worry about basic and sensors etc. do a few low rpm runs with a little boost and make sure its rich enough before you go revving it out. theres a few good excel spreadhseets for turning logged afr's into a new map instead of guessing and having to change every cell manually. look in the files section of the datalogit e group (should have access if you own datalogit). other than that just do plenty of reading, all the info you need is on this site and the datalogit e group standard airflow meter might run out of resolution, try the lowest boost you can to start with

if you wanna be really right and not buy proper restrictors then you can seal up the standard one (seen a pop rivet used) and drill a smaller one next to it

have you tried shortening the rubber hose? i had the same problem with myne, i simply slid it as far onto the drain pipe as i could and it straightened out enough

westbound on beach road heading through wanneroo road intersection. 70 zone, have to slow down to less than 50 to keep my teeth in my mouth

if you go to hyperdrive take cash and try have everything set up ready to go. the more you do yourself the less it'll cost