OUTATIME

looks like a sweet project man. as 4 the s13 stuff i put in my dr pretty much just bolted in (coilovers). used stocko caster rods and control arms. all i did was machine out the camber tops cos u have 2 mount them backwards (if using s13 stuff. can just get r30 ones) and then get stuff all - camber adjustment. drifted it at mallala and had no problems and came up fine when got a wheel alignment. think stock s13 struts come up bit short but if gonna make em adjustable shouldnt have a problem man..

rb30et 260cc, rb20det redtop 260cc, ca18det 360cc (i think) rb26dett 440cc (o ring but can jam a hose on the end of em)

R30s weigh pretty much same as a s13, 1100kg ish. DR30s weigh bit more like 1300kg top end models. but if 4 track rip the electrics, seats, trim and sound deadening out and back down 2 1100kgs or less (as ive done)... have drifted both as well and (r31 rb30et, dr rb20det) found the dr easier to control. 4 me anyway..

I took the car to my mechanic who welded the diff

yea if aus r31 will b bw78 diff. will need 2 drop ur centre out and press off the old bearing. then just go 2 a bearing joint and match it up (dunno what auto places u have there?). just normal taper roller/plain bearing or something (cnt remember) nothing special. press new 1 back on and this ring ur talkin about is ur shim, it sets the backlash between the pinion and crown gear. goes between the bearing and diff housing will def need it. should b pretty straight forward taking it out when looking at it. take wheels off, slide disks off (floating rear), undo 4 bolt axle flanges, pull axles out, undo diff plate, undo 4 bolts on the bearing cups. then diff centre should just fall out, might have 2 jimmy it out with large screw driver etc... close-ish just dw about the mini spool part. more stuff on that site\/ http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?t...ng_a_Mini_Spool

think all drs come stock from the factory with this problem lol

zorst that was on my dr also had a cat on it. emission laws r tougher over there tho?

s1 mr's (same font as the dr in the pic) and s1 dr's have the same front (bar the lip). then theres s2 mr30 front which uses same guards as the ironmask front dr30 but thinner head lights then s1 (not ironmask) thinner grill and no chrome filler strip under the lights and grill. but use same bumper as ironmask dr (but with no light sprayers and bottom spoiler). so to put s1 front on ironmask dr30 u would need s1 mr/dr headlights grill, 1/4 panels, bumper, 1/4 panel indicators, bonnet and possibly the bonnet latch support. might b able 2 get away with ur current 1/4 panels but unsure if s1 and s2 bumper mounts r in the same place. also u would have to leave ur indiactor where it is. s1 have it level with the bumper. f*k hope that made sense lol think i have head lights and a bumper around the place, not sure tho...

all good, was that wire. would of help if i had a charged battery so could see the lights actually light up when was testing em!

cheers man, yea been thru the plugs in the engine bay with ign on and test light to ground so would make the charge light light up when i found it but no luck. can only find 1 wire down where the that big plugs where the gearbox loom and oil sender wires go that leads no where. hook the test light up 2 that and get all the lights on the dash working. so not sure if thats it cos thought just the batt light should light up. if that makes any sense.

cheers mate, been thru bout all the posts cnt find anything. just wanna no what wire is the alternator charge light. if some 1 can send me a pic of bak of the alternator in the car (dr30 fj20et) or a wiring diagram. can only find ecu wiring diagrams not engine or actuall car looms etc cheers

s14 (sr20) rads fit pretty well. mates using one on his l24et r30. if cant find oem item rb30 radiators top take inlet is on the wrong side for an L24

QUOTE (OUTATIME @ 6 Apr 2009, 08:25 PM) 1/2 asked quote r30's lcas r the same if thats any help Sorry didn't understand your reply Don't know if I'd want to compete on Taiwanese copies r30 (aus delivered 4 door) lower control arms r the same (probs all 30s r?). i have a pair in my dr30 cos the original dr30's balljoints wernt the best. would b easier to find a decent pair at a local wreckers. if didnt want just renew the ball joints..

r30's lcas r the same if thats any help

But also has 16x10 challenger -6 or -27 11.8kg how much could ya mate get a set of them 4?

if didnt care if the rear switches did anything can piss em off and plug the wires together so still works off the main switches on the consol. what i did anyway cos mostly used on the track (when i can afford it)

would like 2 take my dr down but still looks crap and would have 2 get a trailer so thats $140+ entry.. money im savin 4 mallala lol. will b there havin a look 4 sure

still havin trouble with this. just that one wire on the back of the alternator. also have an rb30 alternator as well if thats any easier or some 1 has already wired 1 up in a dr before. wanna get this thing runnin 100% b4 i take it on track cheers...

taking the housings off is easy, 6 bolts i think. just centre punch mark where the were so they go back to the same rotation. i had same problem with my old cheap ass turbo so i drilled/filed out the waste gate hole. looks like you've already done that? if ur actuator arm is an adjustable type can wind it out abit so theres less pressure holding the gate shut so when it extends will open the gate up pooftinth more

yea thats an idea 2 get round it. only 4 once a month track car so was good enuf. cannot come loose. mate machined down his knuckles

sorry should have been more specific, as said will need s13 hubs of course to bolt the coilovers to (s13 r floating hub and have strut separate to the hub). but all that bolts straight in (have s13 shit on my dr30) even brake lines fit straight up. only thing is that the steering knuckle on s13 hubs is thicker so when u screw the nut down it wont line up with the hole 2 get a split pin thru. can just put the nut upside down so can still get a pin thru. wont b able 2 come off, mines just 4 track work anyway. and yea just drill out the strut tops for the rear. i just marked them out with pair of dividers no dramas. or also as said could get proper 3 stud strut tops from somewhere.

s13 coils bolt straight in. only mods is machining out camber tops to actually gain - camber or get dr30 camber tops.

any engine parts mate? after igniter and afm cheers...

my bad was a civic! http://cgi.ebay.com.au/92-93-94-95-HONDA-C...A1%7C240%3A1318 got it off that dude. only single core yea should b interesting, been welded (as properly as ya can weld a diff lol) so probs just end up snappin drive shafts.

yea rollin rb20, bought it without any runnin gear. see how long the r180 lasts lol. wish i could afford an fj. rad is 4 a honda accord, dirt cheap off ebay. in/outlets r same for the rb so dropped in, just had 2 make some mounts. yea would b killa 2 get a dr cruise crankin, mines not complied so dunno if can get a trade plate or something?