Bazil_1

ARE coolers look nice though i'm not sure about the look of their grill mounted ones. Ended up going with a Greddy 16 row kit that was made for the GTR and has all the mountings to fit it in the inner guard. Planning to make a vent in the rear of the guard using some plastic louver things to stop flying off the wheel and inside the guard. I'd love to get a 400r style vent for the front guard but they seem to be pretty hard to find. Suppose i'll see how she cools on the track before spending any more money on it

Yeah most of the Jap coolers are around 50mm vs 37 of the pwr and cheaper style coolers. I check the Earls cooler and it looks like it is a 50mm job too. Just tried to work out the cooling properties of air through physics sites and got a headache. I'd think though there would be a limit to where the thickness of the core stops becoming effective as the air flowing through has absorbed all the heat it can and becomes less effective to cool the deeper sections of the cooler. I guess out of two coolers of the same volume, one 50m vs one 70mm both getting the same air flow to the front, the 50mm will come out ontop as it has more effective "fresh" air passing through it...

Thanks guys, Seems like your cars are running cool enough with 13 rows, could be different on a 14km hill climb though (albeit i'm not producing as much power). sav man thats where i was thinking of running the 28 row PWR job though it brings me to the dilemma; Do i run a 28-30 row cooler infront of the rad that has overall size/physical volume of ~2.8l or a 16 row cooler (i.e.Greddy) that has an overall size/volume of ~3.4l as it is deeper in design.. Would surface area with smaller tubes closer together provide more cooling than a deeper cooler with a smaller surface area...? Hmm. Well i guess if i get a 16 row job and try and fit it in one of the guards i would not be playing any effect on the air already cooling the rad perfectly (as long as it gets ducted properly). If it still ends up too hot i could always run two smaller coolers in series.?

Found a photo of the seat side mounts bolted up to the car without the seat today so i edited it to show how i made the mountings. The ass of the seat sits bellow the square tube at the rear to let the seat get as low as possible. I will be raising it up on my side mountings though as it is a bit overkill in the low department and want a straighter back position. There are probably easier ways to do this if you have a 33 seat you can steal the mountings from and weld them to the side mounts but this works. I've used 5mm flat bar where needed and hi tensile bolts everywhere to ensure strength.

What size radiator and oil cooler is that with Duncan? The passenger guard looks about the best bet though would need to duct in some air for the intake. Would work nicely on mine with 400R vents just before the wheel to expel the hot air

Yeah it's using all of the original bolt holes in the body, though the seat belt one has been retapped to take an 8mm (i think?) bolt. I'll try draw up a basic diagram in paint to give you a general idea

Hey Ryan, I run an OMP WRC in my 33 GTR and am 6'3". Due to the roll cage running directly above my head i've had to run the seat as low as possible for helmet clearance . Mines bolted to a 30x30mm square steel tube which i made up to run between the seatbelt side rear mount and the door side and made some mounts for the front out of 5mm flat bar. I have the front of the seat (not the removeable cussion) sitting just forward of the front left mounting (when looking from drivers view) and the pedal reach seems perfect though the wheel is about 20mm too far away (though being taller this might help) The 33 has a tilt adjustable steering wheel but does not slide forward (well atleast in s1 GTR). Here's my seat, sorry i didn't get pics of the mounting when the seat is off, spewing i didn't now as it would have helped in the future. I'll be looking for a dished steering wheel or a longer steering hub once it is off the road for good and won't need ABS for legal reasons (is disconected at track though).

Hi guys/gals, I need to get a cooler for my 33 GTR that will be used primarily on the track, at Targa Tas (eventually) and at Lake MT Sprint early next year. At the moment the engine is just about stock besides sump baffling and is running std boost, only mods to that are filters, intake and turbo back exhaust (more power will come in time but have to keep within regulations for Targa). Looking at most of the Jap kits the biggest they make to suit the car is about a 16 row which didn't seem to cut the mustard for certain people running at MT Buller earlier this month (albeit more power than my setup). I can fit a 28 row PWR cooler between the intercooler and radiator easily but i have heard this could cause the heat to be transferred onto the water.. There is not much room in the drivers side guard as the stock bov setup is taking up most of the room. There is room on the passengers side for maybe a 19 row but this would cause the heat to be transferred to the intake or if it was shrouded with all air from the vent passing through it the intake wouldn't get much fresh air... What setups are people running in events like Targa and Mt Buller running for their oil cooling? Would 28 row be overkill or perhaps too much for the pump (std gtr pump at the moment, will go to either tomei or jun) Running Oran Park last month the car was only able to get 1 flying lap before temps went to dangerous levels and driving the touring stage at Mt Buller the oil was in the danger zone even though i was driving a third of race pace. Both times though the water needle hasn't moved after the car is warm (though this could be the crap stock water temp gauge). Anyway thanks in advance, i've been looking through here for a while now trying to find setups of targa spec cars to no avail. Liam

Yeah tour was good fun to be able to safely drive on the right hand side of the road and know your not going to come head to head with oncoming traffic. Duncan i have a video of you at the start line on Saturday morning some time, didn't look like your best start from the few i saw but was a hell of a lot quicker than some of the rwd cars like the mustang and GTHO's who struggled for traction until the 60km sign. Shoot us a pm with your email address and i'll send it if you like Weekend was good until 3-1/2 hours into the drive home. Dad was driving and noticed a wobble in the steering wheel, "dad we should pull over and check the wheel nuts" "yeah probably should". Half an hour later he overtook a truck doing a bit more than 110km/h when the car dropped down on the front drivers side and all 5 studs snapped off. Luckily the wheel managed to stay inside the guard and ran on the disc until it came to a stop. Ended up staying with the car for 17 hours while dad hitched back to Syd, picked up new studs and came back with the tools. Anyway will be there next year to compete in the sprint and at Lake Mt next year (which they are thinking about running a touring stage for, email the guys at mt motorsport if you are interested.

Sweet, sounds like the gearbox sensor is the easiest option! Although the odometer is not working at the moment but i think that's in the cluster Just ordered one of them online so should get it running in time for testing on the touring stage of Buller.

Hi all, At the final stages of my R33 GTR Targa build and need to mount the wheel probe for the Terra Trip (202+). Going from the provided instructions it sounds as though they want it aimed at the back of the wheel studs which becomes a problem on the GTR due to the AWD hubs. Anyone mounted one to a GTR? Would it be possible to attach something to the tail shaft and mount the probe off that? Any help would be great and i would love you forever and ever if you had pictures of where you mounted it and how you made the bracket Cheers! Liam.

Money transferred just then! Name; Liam Howarth. I'll bring the HD windscreen camera!

I'm keen for this but am i too late/any spots left? If so one more 31 for group 4...