GoldZilla

I don't get it, Joe - is that deep-seated sarcasm or are you just having a laugh? Sometimes I'm not so sure (even considering I've met you a few times), and people who've just joined the forums won't know either. Please take that into consideration when you post...

It sucks to think that you're both STILL waiting on a resolution to this...

Hey ladies and gents, I've been going to this regularly now for quite a while, and there are still not enough of you there. The only "regulars" are "Xmetal" Ian and "Terminal" Andrew (until he moved to Bathurst, anyway). What's going on?

Bump... Any news, Duncan?

Doesn't really matter what you drive, it's not as if you HAVE to own a Skyline to be on these forums, so we won't treat you (or anyone else) any differently. Unless someone acts like a tool and brings disrespect to the group, the forums, the club, or us enthusiasts in general.

Holy crap, I don't wanna stand in a car wash - it's approaching winter!

Sorry Steve-O, I'm out of this one.

Paul, I just thought of The Toy Shop up near Newcastle or the Central Coast (not sure exactly how far up, I've never been). JapImports.com.au or (02)-4966-2233, their fax number is (02)-4966-2200

Hey Allan, welcome to the forums. I'm not sure how much you know about Skylines and Stageas, but the Stagea is based on R33 Skyline GTS4/GT-R running gear, so it is constantly variable and can't be disengaged simply by removing the fuse (or wiring in and flicking a switch) like in the R32 range. Basically, there is usually very little drive going to the front wheels, and drive is only transferred forward as and when there is loss of traction at the rear wheels. What state are you in? We might be able to point you in the direction of a workshop or fellow owner more in touch with Stageas (and imports in general) who should be able to help.

Please use the forum's "Search" function, this has been covered numerous times here. Also, check out the Audio and Security section for more details.

Barry!!!!

NP, Micah!

Not in my case - I've got the Nissan factory remote key, but I leave it at home and just use the copy I had cut, as it saves me from carrying around the bulky key AND the remote for the alarm. I think the issue is that the Mongoose uses a rolling code remote, but the factory key doesn't.

Here we go, some scans for you all - not sure what the quality will be like...

I think it was a Wakefield day, Chubbs...

The 40 and 45 are percentages of the width of the tread of the tyre, so your front profile is 45% of 235mm, and your rear profile is 40% of 255mm. There are a few excellent rolling diameter calculators on the net, including this one: http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

I had a quick scan through the pictures last night (well, some of them anyway), and also noticed a few shots of LingeringJames, Lizzeh and Chubbs.

There should be marks on the crankshaft pulley and both camshaft gears - it's been a while since I did mine, so I can't remember exactly, but a good idea is to use a little bit of liquid paper or similar once you have everything at TDC and BEFORE you remove everything. It makes it easier to line things up when you're doing the reassembly.

SAU-NSW (the club) has previously kicked out a member due to that person being a total clown and potentially bringing disrepute to the club. We don't need any bad publicity, most people already probably hate us to some extent simply because we choose to enjoy our cars - even when we do it responsibly! That's why SAU-NSW organises track days (regularly keep an eye on the Events section), etc. I see where tbag is coming from though - what if you have absolutely NO intention or facing, but the cop still tries to initiate it. Shouldn't the cop be treated as guilty, simply for trying to initiate it in the first place. I know we don't have any entrapment laws here (and if you do try to race him/her, then you deserve all you get), but my opinion is that "Whatever is good for the geese is good for the gander." i.e., if WE'RE not allowed to initiate a race, why should THEY be allowed to?

BTW, I highly recommend that all Stagea owners get a set of these magazines for themselves - they're almost completely written in Japanese, but there are plenty of ideas you can get just from the pictures. funkymonkey should still have some for sale - he ones you want for the Stagea are volumes 38 and 67.

I've had a quick scan through the HyperRev magazines I have here, and it seems there are quite a few cars with the rail replacement covers on them, but I can't figure out if they're all the same covers from one place, or each garage/supplier has their own sets made up. I'll go through them again later and list all of the ones that had them on their cars.

I think performance-wise has a dark green s1 too, Hugh. That makes "maybe" two in NSW including mine, but a friend told me he saw another the other day near his place in Blacktown, and it wasn't me.

If you want, Micah, I can have a quick look in my HyperRev catalogues to see who makes them. It might make it easier to narrow down your search... I'm pretty sure they're made by Dolphin Aeroform, though.

Strange, I've never seen that, although it has been a while since I've needed to check the timing on anything. I have noticed that our self-powered one has a direction mark on it so that when you attach it to the spark plug lead (or whatever the RB25 uses in its place, seeing as it has coil-on-plug), that the spark plug is on one side and the "direction" of spark is a certain way, if that makes sense... You shouldn't really need to check your timing afterwards, kidafa - just make sure that when you remove the belt that the timing gears (and therefore the camshafts) don't move, Make suer BEFORE you remove the belt that the crank and timing gears are all at TDC.

AFAIK, they're exactly the same Leshy. That part of the block should be identical no matter which RB engine you have. Also, I believe the N1 water pump is the best one to get - the blades have a different shape and backing which reduces cavitation.