SteveL

Well I have thought about doing that, and I actually have an RB25DE IACV from a late Stagea which I could use, but I was sort of hoping to get an R34 one (long shot, for sure). Having successfully adapted an RB30 IACV to a VG30DET manifold, it's something I know I could do.......let's just say I'm getting lazy. Nissan's price for a new one is insane, AFAIC

Calvin, welcome, that's pretty much it, plus it is generally cheaper for car manufacturers to make auto-trans coolers as part of the radiator. It's a compromise and it adds to the load on the radiator. It's been shown that replacing the stock cooler with an external oil/air type can extend the life of the auto trans considerably - esp when engine performance is increased and/or the car is used for towing on a regular basis (ie trans load is increased). It is best to mount the new trans cooler in free air to maximise the benefit, but that's not always possible, of course. I've had many auto cars over the years and the first thing I do is fit an aftermarket trans cooler. Personally I think it's virtually mandatory when the car hasn't been originally designed for Australian conditions (and yes I realise your from Hong Kong ).

Someone must have these...

Don't worry, the L-series experts here will be along anytime now to help you.........

Clicking noises are probably injectors, which suggests that side of things is OK (assuming fuel is actually getting to the injectors). CAS also controls ignition. Best way to check is to swap for a known good one. It could also be something related to the microtech wiring....you say you have that + a standard ecu which seems a little strange to me, but then I've never used m/tech equipment.....

If it were a stock engine and ECU the next thing to check after the ignition module is the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) which is on the front timing cover. This tells the ECU when to fire the injectors and the ignition. Your symptoms might suggest the CAS has failed in your case, but since you have an aftermarket system it could also be related to that. You should check the error codes on the ECU if that's still possible.

R30 has the same electronic dist as 280ZX, with only a slightly different timing curve. L6 engines have double valve springs standard, but they are a rev-limiting factor. I still say 'why' though....to make power on an NA L-series at 'high revs' you'll need to use a race cam, and the thing will be a dog as a daily driver.

Did you check the sensor resistance at various engine temps ?? Anyway the PN you are after is: 22630-44B20 But double check when you order and tell them it's in Section 210 for the R33 model.

I think you mean 'Nikasil', and I believe it can only be used on aluminium alloy cylinders (RB blocks are cast iron). Not sure what you mean by 'build up the walls' since you have to bore the engine for 87mm pistons. If the block is already bored out but worn, you could have it sleeved to recover it.

It's nothing to do with making claims, but is based purely on your income as worked out from your tax return at the end of the FY. If you earn $50K+, are single and have no private health insurance, the ATO will slap on a 1% surcharge as your personal contribution to the cost of running the public hospital system........ There's probably a pro-rata system for part-year coverage.

Keep in mind that if you earn over $50K and are single you get slugged with an extra 1% Medicare surcharge per year (ie $500 +) if you don't have private health insurance, so you might as well spend at least that much on a policy. Edit: just checked in it's also $100K+ for families, depending on the the number of children.

Oz spec R30 definately uses R180 long nose diff. Modifying L28 rear sump block to front sump mainly involves fabricating a pick-up which is complicated by internal clearance issues.....but it can and has been done (the sump itself will bolt straight up). The other issue is the dipstick, which is usually done by brazing a tube of appropriate length into the side of the sump - crude but effective. 'rev as high as possible' ??......why ??

Rather than a 'poor casting' it's more likely they had trouble cleaning it or simply didn't clean it properly, which is essential for TIG welding (and to be fair not that simple on a cast alloy sump that's contained oil for many,many years).

Interested in a price on PN N52088

You've probably done the best you can. About the only other way would be to remove a welch plug. I found out when I removed the plenum on my GTR recently that there's a second block drain plug on the driver's side of the block, between cylinders 3 and 4 - but it's even harder to get to

I was there for maybe 1/2 an hour.

Do you have the centre caps and what is the off-set (or what car were they on) ?? Looking at the tyre at the bottom left in the photo it appears the tyre is a bit narrow for the rim (??), might be just the photo tho.....

Kar Air in Ferntree Gully do a good job, but might be a bit far out for you. I was quoted $250 for conversion to R134a, but fortunately they were able to just top-up mine with R12 for $95

http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=5532&latest=1 Note: this is _not_ mine, I was just sent the ad. **mods: not sure where this should go, move or delete as appropriate.**

I didn't say you had a blown head gasket, I said "there's a chance....", and there always is when you've got coolant boiling, etc. I've told you what I think, and waterpump wasn't the only thing. If this were my car I wouldn't be driving it until I found out exactly what was causing the issues your having, but it's impossible for anyone here to tell you the exact cause just from a description on the forum (sorry, but that's just a fact) You now say the waterpump was changed, but I would question how it is that you still had 'brown water' in the system if that is the case. Removing the water pump drains most of the colant....but not all of the block. To me this says the system wasn't flushed completely.....and that the job hasn't been done properly.

You need to go over the car's cooling system with a fine tooth comb. Was the entire system flushed including draining the block completely ?? (brown water comment suggests not). A lot of these engines sit around for a long time in wreckers yards and cooling system clogs up with crap plus who knows how the original owner(s) treated the car (again - brown water comment). At the very least I would: - pressure test the system (there's a chance you have a blown head gasket). - change thermostat - change water pump (or at least check it) - completely flush cooling system - have radiator cleaned and tested. All of this assumes you have everything connected correctly.

After a GTR AAC-IACV valve - it's the device bolted to the plenum that controls idle. I have confirmed in FAST that R32/R33/R34 all use the same part number. Must be in excellent working condition and prefer one from a late model (ie R34), but that's probably asking a lot Also interested in an R34 CAS (all R34's use the same CAS). PM or e-mail at: [email protected] TIA

Good description, well done. One thing tho - there's also a bleed nipple on the ATESSA pump itself, which should be used to bleed the pump first. It's a bit hard to see, but it's on the bottom of the pump and can be accessed from the drivers side of the diff just above the RH drive shaft.

Jason - you need to post pics of the car now, not what it did look 6 years ago. In particular of the rust and the interior condition. Based on your description and what I know about rust in cars of this age, it might be worth what your asking for it......but it could also be worth a lot less. I'm in Melbourne, so that also makes things a bit 'hard' for me in terms of assessing the car.

I haven't tried all the combinations, so I'm reluctant to say 'yes that will work'. All I can say is that the chances are high that it will, but I can't say for an absolute certainty.