SteveL

Sounds more like a wiring problem.....if by 'blowing' you mean they're failing electrically. Since it's been adapted to the 180SX wiring system, might be worth double checking everything.

As it happens I'm doing mine at the moment as I have the plenum off and decided to replace all the hoses so I only have to do this once (in theory). The heater hoses actually aren't all that expensive from Nissan (well I didn't think so anyway. As you've probably seen there are two hoses attached (or should be in your case ) to pipes that pass through firewall on the passenger side near the ABS actuator. The bottom of these hoses is the 'longest' - it runs behind the engine to the drivers side, angles down near the clutch master and then attches to a fitting at the back of the block above the starter motor. The second hose is actually 2 separate hoses that are joined at a sensor behind the motor near the ignitor box. It pretty much follows the same path as the first hose, but joins to a metal tube arrangement attached to the bottom of the plenum. The metal tube feeds into a fitting near the thermostat housing via another short rubber hose. After all that I'd say it would be very difficult to replace the hoses without removing the plenum and it all becomes obvious once it is removed. If you want I can give you the part numbers for the hoses and they're probably around the $100 mark for them all.

To me the R32 GTR was always the one to have.....to my eye's R33's look like camry's (R33 guys please note I said 'to MY eyes' before you get upset ). It's the same as the 240Z vs 260Z argument.....R32 was the 'first' and a bit special for that reason, but R33 is probably more refined. As to the cost of parts, etc for R32, for the most part it's no different to r33 with the exception of stuff unique to R32 (trim, etc), but mechanicaly they are very similar. That said, given what I've seen some of you guys pay for work on your cars, well......I'm in the wrong business.....

Most likely the pump bearings are shot or the pump vanes have been run dry causing internal damage. Loosen the PS belt and see if the noise reduces/goes away (engine running of course). If the noise changes with belt tension, most likely the problem is a shot bearing. Another test is to take the belt off completely, grab the PS pump pulley and see if there is any sideways play in the shaft.

Have you bled the system ?? Fairly easy - jack up the front end until both wheels are off the ground, then with the engine running turn the steering wheel from lock to lock say half a dozen times making sure the reservoir has fluid to the recommended level. Put car back on the ground and test drive.

VicRoads will require a RWC along with the engineers certificate (VASS). It might be that the compliancer also provides the RWC, but I'd be surprised if you got a years rego also paid (not saying it's not possible tho....best talk to your compliancer about what's included in their fee).

I have a similar Apexi EL gauge in the GTR, but with slightly different dial face. It should be reading 'zero' when not connected or engine not running. (that's not a one-way valve I can see at the back of the gauge in that photo, is it) ??

The only pictures I have are the same as posted by Ant above (ie from FAST). You could try searching using google for pictures of the interior of an S15. The parts listed are all those for putting a guage into an S15, but I've no idea if you need them all for an MX6....IMHO it's doubtful it'll fit, but you never know your luck.....

Yes I found those, but 76911-85F00 is the PN for the bracket. The part numbers are: 76911-85F10 - Garnish Assy, Pillar RH (actual trim piece for the pillar) 76911-85F00 - Bracket, Pillar End (seems to be some sort of support piece for the gauge or its escutcheon) 76987-85F10 - Escutcheon-Meter, Front Pillar (gauge trim piece) 01466-00022 - screw (for the bracket) Colours are listed as suitable for interiors G or Z....G is grey, I think, not sure about Z

OK, might be able to track it down - was it fitted to S15's sold in Japan and what spec is the car (spec S or spec R) ??

I take it it's a standard Nissan part ??

It's quite possible the AFM is the problem. It's a mechanical 'flap' type with the flap operating a variable resistor arrangment. Over time things wear and problems like this can occur. It's also possible you have an air leak - check all vac hoses, etc. I don't have my R30 WS manual anymore so can't help you there. It's really a question of doing things by the 'numbers' - check timing, valve clearances, sensors, air leaks, etc, etc.

As I said, it's a memory thing......but it's not an RB20DET flywheel, that's certain. It's your engine....don't damage the crank.

That's the flywheel dowel pin and all RB turbo engines have one in the crank and the matching flywheel has an extra hole. What you DON'T have is an RB20DET flywheel.....more than likely it's from an RB30E (R31 Skyline or VL Commode) which definately doesn't use a flywheel dowel. You could saw the nipple off, but better to drill the extra hole in the flywheel. But you might have a bigger problem - if memory serves an RB25DET flywheel is slightly bigger in diameter than the RB20DET (or RB30E) type. What that means is that the starter may not engage with the flywheel you have correctly (but I might be wrong..... ).

Fair enough. I'm just thinking that finding a S/H one for an R34 might be a tall order. If you like PM me your VIN and I can tell you the PN of the condensor and then at least you can get a price from Nissan to compare with anything S/H you might find.

'rocker' does, 'rocket' doesn't AFAIC (and I've been around 'a while') If your saying the half-moon seals don't require sealant I disagree.....and so does Nissan. OTOH, the rocker cover gaskets themselves don't need any sealant [sigh] I don't think the are hard to seal at all. As for cork.....come back and talk to me when you've worked on a veteran car......

Have you talked to an air-con specialist ?? It's possible to repair a condensor in much the same way as repairing a radiator core.

Curious to know where this comes from: As has been pointed out, it is actually rocker cover (probably more correctly 'cam cover' in this case as there arn't any actual rockers). Anyway, only the rear 'half moon' seals require some sealant at installation. The rocker cover gasket requires none - just make sure it is 'square' in the groove of the rocker cover (no twists, etc).

None of the above.

PM cowie165 he'll be able to tell you all about it (had the same problem and fix is relatively simple and cheap - broken reverse check mechanism).

PM

It's actually held on by a nut on the 'other side' from that shown in the photograph. There's a cap held on by a single bolt and behind that is a large nut which retains the bearings and hub. You might be better to look at something like Z31 turbo.

VRS Kit for R33 GTSt, RB25DET (9308-9601): 11042-17U27 - Gasket Kit, Valve Re-Grind

Yes - PM to discuss, if you like.

Al is right, it's not legal. Doesn't matter that it has smaller capacity - quite apart from the fact that the power output is more than 10% over the standard engine's output, the Rb25DET wasn't offered as an option for the R31. You need an engineers certificate - if nothing else your insurance is invalid.