nitestalkr

looks like cock.. win-win-lose

buy a gti pulsar.. is a gtir with an NA SR20.. would have to upgrade the bonnet aswell as it only comes with a standard n14 bonnet.. anyhow.. back on topic..

comes set at no increase in boost over what you car is running now. Screw bolt in to increase pressure. Took 1.5 or 2 screws on mine before boost started to increase.

In my opinion the whole problem is to do with structural integrity and rusting of the hole, rather than the airbag issue. I say this because the people i know who have copped this are driving s13s and 32s.. Weld up and paint did the trick for them though.. Still a pain in the ass obviously..

Does the car drive as well as usual apart from not finding idle? Or does it run like shit now?

You need the hand controller to reset it.. There is an option called init data (or something similar).. I am sure all this info can be found in the Power FC FAQ written by Paulr33. http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm Cheers

or you could try RE Customs in westall/springy.. A strange idea for something to check as everything is turning on and off, is your alternator in good condition? I only say that as i have experienced similar probs in cars before which turned out to be that!.. Just a thought seeings engines have been changed etc.. -Daniel

U make full boost when revving out of gear? What revs are we talkin here? I have a feeling your second issue may be piping related as well..

You will be able to run slightly higher boost with the rb25 turbo on an rb20 rather than an rb25 because of the engine capacity.. I did say SLIGHTLY higher tho.. edit: i do agree you will probably struggle to get near 300hp with this setup..

I would give this 'GTR specialist' a miss from now on.. He sounds like he is failing at life if he hasn't checked any piping.. haha Glad to hear things are much better now!.

Well you will need some sort of boost control to dial a setting in and piss the solenoid off. If you are thinking about a Dr Drift remap, this could be a bleed valve or EBC. Then you can dial in the boost you want. The remap will sort your R&R issues which you will encounter. Other thing, so you dont freak out, is that chances are once you dial in 10.5 -> 11 psi it will reach that mid range but will trickle off at top end. Probably losing 2-3 psi. People seem to have had great success with DrDrift, but keep in mind, you will not be able to turn up to any workshop and have it re-tuned once the time comes as opposed to a Power FC, Microtec etc... I think thats all.. lol

You have a PM, engo..

This is pretty much on the money as far as R33 and R34 go.. My ECU was struggling by about ~160.. stock turbo holding for the moment.. Just wait til you have 200+ rwkw and the R34 cant hold boost.. FYI.. i am running 202.9rwkw with intake, exhaust, boost controller, PFC, splitfires. Tuned at RE Customs (for dyno results comparison) That is all..

LOL.. i knew when i was reading this thread and Wolf got mentioned, Rank Rotary wouldnt be far behind.. I also, from peoples experiences, would steer clear of Wolf.. and the no AFM setup doesnt help when you get EPA'd and the only check they do for ECU is unplugging the AFM to see if your car stalls.. (they may have revised these procedures since i was last there, but they thought they were pretty tricky dicky with this test) Limpus - I was wondering the same thing.. Why hasnt ash come in here waving the 'search u kent' stick yet..?

^^ agreed. pretty sure its the one you block mate..

haha funny kent...

Thanks for the advice guys.. Ill have to look into GCG more as i haven't really looked at what they have to offer. The fuel system suggestions have definitely been taken on board as well. Would still be a few months off these mods, but i guess i have plenty of time for research hey.. Cheers again -Daniel PS: Dan, So you have tried changing actuators with no luck? urgh.. This upsets me..

Im also looking for feedback on the GTRS when installed in a 34. It's the most likely route i'm willing to take at the moment (Slide seems to have a reasonable price), but just wanted the run down on response times and how streetable it is etc.. Also stock fuel pump and injectors should be fine at this level of modification? Currently tuned to 202rwkw at 9psi (i think its the stock actuator isn't holding boost at top end), so i suppose with a GTRS kit i could achieve around 230rwkw? Does this sound reasonable? Mods are: Pod 3" (to cat) -> (cat back) 4" exhaust Hi-Flow cat Splitfire coilpacks Hybrid Cooler Turbotech BC Apexi PFC Sorry for the half hi-jack yellow submarine. -Daniel

thats a lot of cones..

LOL

Just wondering if there has been any other developments to this? that second stage of the map PeAkS me out (if thats what the issue is).

I cant believe no one has lost it about those Ford Territory kents.. FARKKKKIN hell.. however i am willing to through all 4x4s into that catagery, its just the Territory owners pay 50k less to look like a FLOG... the shit makes me cry.. i work near toorak, so i cry a bit The best are the 4cyl 4x4s like the Misti Outlanders.. LOL.. 4cyl ffs, i dont reckon it would 4x4 up a gutter People braking on the freeway pisses me off... Think about it fags! If everyone didnt pre-emptivly brake on every f*kn corner we would get places a lot quicker!! And if i let you through a small gap in the road and you dont wave by the time you get to my quater panel, im gunna flip the bird at you. Its my new thing for all the f*ks that freak on you cos your in a skyline so much that they cant be polite when your doing the right thing. LOL, the list of cars just coming to mind that make me fume is rediculous. I need to stop now or i will be on here all night.. Happy Friday arvo drive home everyone! lawl

I would also like to know what can be plugged in where the yellow arrow is.. Ive never had anything there either. As far as stock boost gauge goes the guys above are correct..

Thanks for the replies guys. To follow on from what you have said, its really the accuracy i was more worried about as im trying to dial in 12psi which is getting to the pointy end for this turbo (standard 34 GTT turbo), and i am relying a fair amount on the end accuracy of the boost gauge to judge this. Response time isnt a massive concern because as GeeTR eluded to, i dont look at the boost gauge often at all once i have dialled my optimum pressure in. Aftermarket gauge is already behind in response time to the standard one anyway, so really not a concern. Cheers, Daniel

Hi Guys.. I have done a search but couldnt find anything relevant. I need to know if any changes occur to the accuracy or responsivness of a boost gauge if the diameter of the vacuum line that feeds it is increased. The increase would only be small (ie/ 2.5mm to 3 or 3.5mm). Am i correct in thinking because it is a closed circuit of air that the responsiveness may suffer but the gauge will still eventually be accurate? Let me know your thoughts. Cheers, Daniel