kitto

Found. Thanks.

Check to make sure the cam shaft seals are not leaking, not just the cam covers. Is your timing belt due or due soon? Do it all in one hit, change the water pump too.

Yeah i'm fully aware of this. You should however be able to use one valve made by X manufacturer, but make sure you retain the same single manufacturer for the springs, retainers, spring seats (if needed - Type B Tomei set just uses the factory spring seat). I'm not fully sure of what issues the guy on here had, i can't remember what was in the thread exactly. What he was using etc.

I've looked into this before, i've only found one report that supertech's were no good. And that was to do with the spring seat from memory. They weren't all the same. There was a thread on it on here a few weeks back. Only bad thing i could find on them. As down the track i'll be looking for a full valve train kit for my RB26 aswell. I think i'll be just using Ferrera valves, Tomei Type B valve springs, bronze guides and thats it to suit my application.

Hi all, i need to get a replacement box for the missus' car asap! Its gotta be in good nic, no crunching, no grinding, no broken gears, no f**ked input bearing, just a nice good gearbox. S13/S14 5 speed SR20DET Box. Clutch, shifter, cross member NOT required. Not interested in a S15 6 speed box. SA Only please. PM here or txt at a reasonable time - 0400 719 226. Reasonably priced please. Thanks.

Yep, ignition timing is far far too retarded.

Awrsome price on the carrillos! I bought these new from the US a few monyhs back and paid a fair bit more than $1k! Too bad your in the US, the brand spanker crankshaft is tempting, but freight would be rapeful! Good luck with the sale!

Wad this the car that blew the extreme cluych at the motokhana a month of so ago? Good prices too!

Its all about ratios. A higher diff ratio will make the car travel slower than a lower diff ratio @ the same RPM in the same gear. I dont know if the speeds are correct as per say, depends on what gear your in and tyres/wheels etc. But yes, that is the general jist of it.

Hi flowed RB25 turbo is perfect for this. They are good for 240-250rwkw. Yep good idea Well you could... But your only chasing 240kw. The high flow will be cheaper, As said, $900 or so.

Usually there is not consideration for the type of current draw or the voltage. If its AC or DC, 20A is seen as 20A. 2.5mm2 will easily support this. Gauge, why does everyone use gauge? Its American, we're Australian. Cable is measured in Cross Sectional Area, not a numerical number denoting the size of a cable that works in reverse.

Also, the engine temp sender is different to the gauge sender. Its right next to the gauge sender, yellow plug on both the harness and sender. Two wires. Right near the fpr.

That was meant to be: ive never had an isue with the stock fpr* not fuel pump

Ok, have you got factory wiring running to the fuel pump? It may be suffering voltage drop. I would suspect a faulty fuel pump/wiring before a factory fpr. Ive never had an issue with the stock fuel pump. How is the pump wired? Is the ecu still controlling it via variable voltage? Or is the ecu switching a relay to give a constabt 12V to the pump?

Bump. Threw half of the stuff out that was quite useless. Still have whats in the photos. Price drops; Clutch and brake pedal - $35 Clutch master and booster - $40 Unbroken fusebox cover - $20 Brake booster - $35 ABS unit/master cylinder - $80 P/S pump and bracket - $40 L/R Front hubs, knuckles, drive shafts, brake lines and upper control arms - $150 Want it all gone! Cheers.

No it doesn't. PVC insulated cable will break down in fuel. I have now looked into find a replacement PTFE/Teflon coated cable. I have sourced some here in Adelaide at Key Tubing and electrical in Melrose Park. I'm an electrician and i work just around the corner from them. I got a price, for 4mm2 available in black, blue, white and two other colours from memory. No red, is $4.40 per metre. So $440 per 100 metre roll. I have spoken to one of the guys down there, and he seems to think he'll be able to sell it by the metre. Now, in reality 2.5mm2 will be fine for a single 040. 2.5mm2 cable is rated at 20A without taking into consideration any cable de-rating factors, and in this case; being a car with a maximum run length of probably 5 metres, we dont need to. I didn't get a price on the 2.5mm2, but its available in black and red, and i would assume it would be around the $3 - $3.50 per metre. I think i'll be getting myself some for free as we're such a big customer of theirs Failing this route, i do believe RS components sell it, i think they are based somewhere in Sydney from memory. Maybe Silverwater.

Interesting. Have you looked at things like a shitty AFM? Tried cleaning it with contact cleaner? Clogged injectors, shitty FPR could be an issue, but i feel the problem lies elsewhere. What is the ignitor pack like? Working properly? Same with the coils? What plugs are you running? I know a lot of people love to run Iridiums thinking they are a better plug, but this is not always the case, they are designed to last a long time, not necessarily perform. A set of NGK BCPR6ES gapped to .8mm is ideal! As said, could be TPS switch, possibly even a faulty a ECU engine temperature sender. There's quite a few things that could cause such an issue. Have you checked the IAC valve? Hard to get to i know, as it sits under the inlet plenum, but these commonly freeze open or closed. Causing all sorts of idle issues. Its a process of elimination really.

The cold start issue sounds the starter motor cranking signal wire was not wired in when the conversion was done. Common error. It tells the ecu to dump more fuel in when starting. Without this. The engine is a prick to start. The hot issue could be anything. Tps, aac valve, stuck open iac valve etc.

Sounds like cam timing as said. What cams are in it? If the cam timing is out. Set it correctly then retune it

Ahh ok fair call. I think i really need to put stainless/iconel valves and bronze valve guides in my head to suit what i'm doing. So a factory head rebuild would not suit me. Question though, do you have a picture of the power/torque/boost dyno read out of your engine? I know an internally stock RB26 with a GT35 will do 400kW. But i'm chasing the same sort of figures with a 3076 for my RB26. So it would be interesting to see so i can work out how much head work i need to do to get the power where i want it. Cheers.

Sounds like you've been ripped. Hopefully you get it exchanged! Anti surge cover seems to make a big difference!

Hmm tempting! Also keen to know if it was just a rebuild or if any other work was done to it... Type B Poncams are 260 duration, 9.15mm lift..

Ok i'm on my computer now, this was meant to mean; There's a little rubber seal on the shafts that seal off the throttle bodies. Under higher boost conditions, these seals can push out and cause a tiny leak which is noticeable during idle. There is a company in the US that makes hard plastic/nylon stoppers that fit in behind these seals to hold them in and stop them from popping out. If your seals are good, from what i can gather, this is a good modification and i'll be doing it to my engine once the rebuild gets under way. You cannot buy these seals from Nissan. I think someone already mentioned this.

+1, dont do a half arse job! A proper steam pipe manifold will last forever. The cheaper ones crack, and before you know it, you'll be taking it off to weld up all the cracks.

That didnt make much sense lol. Damn phone!