kitto

There is a seal that stops air getting in through the bearing under high boost. These seals can push out. They cant be ordered from nissan though. You can buy inserts to put in behind them to lock them in though. Ive seen them on ebay usa.

Not precisely. Yes it helps protect the oil pump, but it really does bugger all job of protecting it, especially if its 10+ years old. They are a serviceable item, they should be replaced ideally every 100,000km or so. Their main function is to 'try' and eliminate as many crankshaft harmonics that are created by the engines internal forces. Inevitable with a reciprocating engine - The inline 6 is one of the worst engines for harmonics. The higher the revs, the worse the harmonic issue becomes, Rotaries are far less harmonic. As well as trying to delete harmonics, they also act as a pulley to drive accessories. If you have a built engine, and your using a stock design pump and you'll be seeing high RPM constantly. Ideally you should have had the crank shaft/flywheel/clutch pressure plate balanced. And then fitted an ATi balancer at the end. As said earlier, these DONT get balanced as they are already factory zero balanced. There's a fair bit of info around on this, i spend weeks gathering all the info i needed before buying one. Had no real consideration for harmonic balancers a year ago. But in a high performance engine, especially an inline 6, they come into play, massively. and a 15 year old one doesn't cut it.

Umm if its been sitting for a while, there would now be rust in 1 or more cylinders, as soon as you start it, depending on how bad it is, you could damage the rings/pistons and bores. Or has it simply blow a water to oil part of the gasket?

I love it! That is awesome! I have a track R31, and i'm currently collecting all my parts to build up my RB26 for it. Except i'm keep one turbo hehe. Nice detail with the engine building! I'm still pulling my hair out, as to where to go here in SA to get mine assembled.

I bought my cp pistons and carrillo rods with CARR bolts from real street performance in the US for $2375 USD back in June. Freight will be on top of this. Those rods are about $2000 Aud alone..

Hmmmm, quite tempting, i'm sorta in the market for a clutch and was probably going to go NPC...

Simmo, i'd go at least .9 straight away. I found my RB20 miss-fired on anything more than 1mm. DONT use Iridiums either! Just NGK coppers! BCPR6ES. If you grab these plugs without the -11 on them, they are gapped to .8mm out the box.

Stupid phone! Meant to be so, and clearance lol

Keen as on the sump. I need more detail pics though as its going into an r31 sp clearanve may be an issue. Cheers

Hi all; I'm after a power steering pump bracket to suit an R33 GTR. It MUST be an R33 GTR one only. R31, R32, R33 GTS, GTS-T, GTS-4 etc etc will not suit. R34 GTR unit may work depending on how different the power steering pump is to an R33 one. Prefer in SA. PM me, thanks!

Ah yes, good point, well my car will be tuned on the same dyno. Wheel dyno's are so hit and miss so who really knows how much power x car makes on x wheel dyno. Ok, so maybe a GT3540 with a .82 rear housing? I can't say i've compared the specs closely of the 3540 and the GTX3076R, but i'm assuming i'll have a little more lag with different turbine and compressor trims. 8,500RPM max, limiter will be set slightly higher than max power. So it may make full power at 7,200 or whatever. So limiter might be set to 7,500RPM But have the valves and and valve seats been replaced, as they are commonly overlooked. Well i'm going to well and truely blow my $12k budget for the long engine. So i'm not so sure anymore haha. Why and why? Yes i know this, i'd only need the Tomei solid lifters if i were putting it rediculous lift cams yes? As the base circle diameter of the cam changes on the larger lift cams. Already doing them...

Ok, maybe i should re-phrase this a little. I know 400kW in a RWD vehicle is going to be a handful, i'm aware of this. Realistically it will be tuned for 350kW. I want to build this engine so that say in 5 years time i decide to buy a GTR, i can put this engine straight in, slap on a larger turbo, change the cams and injectors if need be and push out 400kW+ if i decide to do this. So i'm trying to do all the internals now so that i dont have to open up the engine later on down the track. I know the GTX3076R wiht a .63 housing can make 366kW on an internally stock RB25 NEO. (Simon Michelmore's S14). The same tuner will be tuning my engine once it is built. I do believe that simon is not actually running the turbo in its proper efficiency range, I dont think he's making full use of the turbo. So lets be realistic then, lets say i chase 350 - 380kW for my RWD car. Firstly, Turbo, is the 3076R with a .82 housing going to be a good choice? Or are there some other turbos you would suggest? That then brings us to external gate size and brand once turbo choice has been made. Cams, yes i had a feeling anything over 270 duration is going to be far to aggressive. Should i be going a pair of 264's with as much lift as possible or even sticking with stock cams? I already have adjustable cam gears. I'd really like to do some sort of head work. It will be getting revved hard and for long periods of time, so valve springs are a definate. It would be nice to at least clean up the ports and match them a bit better. I know oversize valves may not be necessary but after talking to several reputable engine builders, a few have said the exhaust valves tend to fail at constant high RPM. This was not something i was aware of. Valve guides is another one that was suggest to change to bronze items. That then brings us to valve seats and lifters. I'm sure the factory lifters will be fine, as long as they are not worn out. Of course they will need to be re-shimmed.

I still to this day can't work out your fascination with keeping everything stock.... Stock shit doesn't always hold up....

Evening all! So its now time for me to start choosing what top end parts i need to start ordering for my RB26 engine. So far i've pretty much got the bottom end sorted out parts wise. I have; CP Pistons Carrillo Rods with CARR bolts Tomei oil pump ATI Harmonic Balancer ARP Main studs ARP Head studs Full gasket kit N1 Water pump Gates Belt Few other bits and pieces. No bearings as yet - engine builder will need to size them up I'm trying to go as far as i can with this engine whilst keeping it relatively simple. I'm chasing reliability, longevity, response and efficiency. Not necessarily raw power. Im going as far as i can oil control wise, i have that more or less sorted. Power output in mind 400rw kW. So now i'm moving onto the head and what parts i should be looking at and what head work I should be looking at getting done. Turbo; I've done a fair bit of talking to people and so far the GTX3076R with a .82 rear housing is what everyone seems to be suggesting to me so far. Most people with RB25's are running these or the 3071R with a .63 housing. But as i have an RB26 with a more efficient flowing head and i'm considering porting aswell. The .82 rear housing should suit nicely. Please do not suggest that i stick with twin turbos, i have made my mind up on a larger single turbo for several reasons. Wastegate; This is something i'm really guessing now, I'm personally thinking something like a 48 or 50mm gate, brands? Manifold: Garage 7 steam pipe Cams: I'm looking at a pair of Camtech Cams. Ideally for what i'm doing, i should be going for maximum lift and not going to crazy on duration. So something like a 270, 278 or 280 duration with 10.8mm lift. Obviously its preferable to not machine the head to clear the bigger 11.5mm lift cams. Here's their webpage so you can have a looksie; http://www.camtechcams.com.au/niss_6cyl_rb26.html Head internals: Now, how far do i really go? I have Tomei gear set in my head, but do i really need to buy everything Tomei? Oversize Valve Valve springs Valve guides Valve Seats Solid lifters Valve spring shims What should i really be replacing? Should i be replacing it all to have the best chance of a nice reliable engine that is able to easily make nice power for years to come. I've been told to replace the valve guides with bronze items, i've been told the factory exhaust valves tend to snap off at high revs. Valve springs will definitely need to be changed, but do i go type A, B or C? What other brands could i be looking at that is comparable to Tomei, HKS etc? Maybe Ferrera Valves, Supertech Valve springs and valve guides etc. And how far should i be taking my porting, just cleaning up the ports, such as removing the stud recess in the exhaust ports, or should i be really opening them up and gasket matching the intake and exhaust ports. Any input will be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Daniel.

VEHICLE SOLD!

PM sent. Yes it IS a genuine TRX, however the Australian built bluebirds were never fitted with an LSD or power steering.. Bump everyone, someone buy me!

Bump

Hey everyone, so i'm building my engine, and i'll be changing to an ATI harmonic Balancer. Now my question is, there are two different balancers (theres actually quite a few, but i'll be sticking with the OEM bolt on type), One is to suit an R32, the other is to suit an R33/R34.. Is it just the accessories such as power steering and air con that change between the R32 and R33/R34? This engine is going into an R31 and i'm not the biggest GTR know it all so i'm having trouble trying to work out what i need to do. I've already worked out that i need to make up a custom power steering pulley as the GTR balancer is a 4PK whereas the R31 pump is a 3PK and the offset of the pump is too far back anyway. I might be able to get away with an R32 NON Hicas unit but i'm not sure. But my other concern is my alternator. I compared my RB26 balancer to my RB30 one today and realized the offset between the two are different. The RB26 alternator and water pump belt are about 2mm closer to the engine than that of the RB30. This might mean that i'll have to change over to an R32 alternator. Any difference in the GTST and GTR R32 alternators? Which ATI balancer have people used, there are two OEM options that you can choose, one for under 500HP and one for 600 - 1000HP. I did a bit of a search but came up with nothing conclusive. Thanks, Daniel.

BUMP! G Sensor sold. Make offers on everything! If its not gone in 4 weeks its going in the bin!

Yeah good point, hence why i'm getting a good builder to do it. Not like an average one like Lewis. Do you remember exactly what work he had done to your head, cam specs, lifters, retainers done? Valve guides/seats etc? Oh and if you dont mind me asking, what did that sort of end up costing you?

What work did you have done Heslo? Yeah i know Matty T very well, im good mates with him. And i heard his horror story with Lewis, lifters all needed to be reset. What specs is your RB26? You do track work and it hasn't failed yet? Power output, engine specs etc?

Ahh yep! I was aware of this lol. Just spoke to Andrew from Rhemac, he seems to certainly know his stuff! Hes gone against the other two and said that Eagle rods are fine for the power i'm chasing. So there another mix up there. But he also said for the power im after, head work isn't really necessary, just do a rebuild, bronze vavles, valve springs etc.

It wasn't that bad, i just think hes more a get the job done as quick as possible, get it out. I dunno maybe it was his attitude. I've also heard some not so good stories about other people. Apparrently he built an engine, rod failed due to not being correctly torqued, but he blamed it on the tuner - being pre-detonation. Customer got no warranty or anything. But yet it was a workmanship failure, not tuning. Boostworx, hmmm yeah nah, i'm sure they do alright, but they send their machining work to someone else as they are a performance workship, not a dedicated engine builder with all the necessary gear to build engines. I've just been on the phone to Allan Engineering, he seems to know his shit! For the power i'm chasing, he really thinks i should stick with stock rods, JE or CP pistons, change the exhaust valves and a few other things, nothing too major for the 400kW MAX that i'm chasing. Also spoke to knight engines, hes not too sure about using a Tomei pump, he seems to think the stock pump with billet gears are good, hmm i'm not too sure about that. But he said the same, JE or CP pistons, he said stay away from eagle rods, go with something like a SCAT rod (which Allan said not to). But he was also saying something similar that i wont really need to do heaps of head work and such to achieve the power i need.

Wow Aberax, a little pricey yes. I had similar work done to my RB30 block for half the cost through lewis engines, but eh his work wasn't that great. ovrtym33 - I've heard of Nispeed, but havn't really heard about their work. I know Peter Hall and have heard of his work, a mate also got his bottom end work done by him, and neither myself or my mate were overly impressed with what he did. I think Peter's knowledge is well and truly L series stuff. But i might have a chat to them anyway. Plus Peter is impossible to get a hold of.

Yeah i have heard of Rhemac, and have just been speaking to a mate about them. But yeah he said they are quite pricey. What machine work did you have done and what was the rough bill? I have used lewis before, and yeah wasn't too greatly impressed. Plus i've heard some horror stories as of late too.